In order to replace the fuel pump, it appears that the radiator must be drained and the lower radiator hose removed. As well, the steering pump and it's bracket loosened and set out of the way. All this, to gain access to the ferruled fitting on the pump, for fuel line to the carburetor. Correct ?

 

As it worked out, that was what I did. With the lower radiator hose pushed out of the way and the Steering Pump (SP) bolts removed, one very long the other very short set aside, the way was clear to get to the Fuel Pump (FP). I had stressed over getting to one of the SP bracket bolts. I thought there were 3, nope just the two and easy to get at. The lower one behind the SP pulley is a bolt that holds the SP to it's bracket. I started with the ferrell fitting. Thinking I'd start on the toughest work first and that the only Fuel that might leak, would come down from the Carb. Wrong! Re-tighten the steel fuel line.

Pulled first one then the other of the small supply hoses and plugged them. Then back to the Steel line Ferrell Fitting. I dropped the 13mm tube wrench and discovered while recovering it, that there was enough room for me to get under the nose of the car. And since I could see what I was doing, I didn't need the tube wrench. So, I finished very quickly with an open-end wrench. Next the two 7/16" FP Bolts. While trying to remove the FP, the steel line hangs up on the pump. Maybe I should have attempted that removal from under the car.

As it came free, the FP didn't, pop out, as though the very strong spring were under tension. So may be the cam lobe is out of play here (a good thing for me, as I won't have to crank the engine around to clear the lobe to ease the new pump going in and bolting up). Anyway, as the FP came free of the fuel line and pulled out, it was immediately apparent that the spring had failed, broken... Ooopps what was that? The pushrod just, fell out! On this stock Pushrod, the end that contacts the cam lobe has a bronze end, while the other end is as the rest of the SS rod, polished smooth. No nicks, burrs or scratches. Well, clean up tomorrow and reassemble.

 

The tension created by the steel fuel line pressing against the FP, is making this impossible to do single handed. I'm going to have to get a second person to push and hold the fuel line against the block while I get the 7/16" FP bolt started. I can get either the lower or the upper bolt started. The upper one is the more difficult to get started, because of the angle from above the FP, in order to start the bolt. ( I can't get to it from under ).

Even with only a thread or two of the upper bolt holding the FP in place, I can't start threading the lower bolt, because the FP can't be wiggled enough ( again, because of the fuel line ) to get the bolt lined up and threaded into the hole. I tried tying a string to the fuel line, to hold it back from pressing against the FP, but the angle is wrong. All I'm doing is pulling the line down, not back, like I need it. Otherwise this job would have been done long ago. Aside from the fuel line, it's not that tough a job.


With FP in place that #&$@ Fuel line causes problems


Another shot, (further back) of fuel line, the bane of my existence.

 

Just curious, can you disconnect the fuel line at the carb to give some "wiggle room" down at the fuel pump, and then reconnect the line at the carb once you've got the fuel pump installed?

 

Well that was a bit frustrating. I had typed up a response and the whole thing disappeared. No idea what I did. So here's the short version.

Thank You.

I'll look in to disconnecting the fuel line at the carb.

 

Hopefully that should give you all kinds of play at the fuel pump end to get it hooked back up