these 60* V6s must be some really strong engines

i went out with my friend last nite and did some hard drivin'

i got 180,00 miles and the thing can still peel out like a ****

i never really had a problem with the motor yet...............

i know by writing this i am prolly jinxing myself and my motor is gonna throw a rod today, oh well

also if i was to get a 3.4, how much of a nitrous shot would it REALLY be able to take?

i was talking to some kid at work and he said if you put a 100 shot of NOS to anything stock, it'll blow................and one of the master mechanics there agreed with him

cuz with 180,000 on the clock i gotta start saving for a 3.4, more than ever now that my V6 is my daily driver.......

.........and a new fuel pump

 

Your swap will only need NOS if ya really want it.
It is a very strong runner, as is.
Yesterday, I "created" my hopped up air intake system.
I've always had plenty of pep with this swap.
My 75+ passing bursts are superb.
I took only a very short ride and "it felt" better?
I'm waiting until my highway ride today, to know if it's worth my sore back.
I think, I'll be just pleased as is.
I'd like to try a 3:73 swap instead. I have 3:42 now.

 

Hell yea, these engines are the best. I drive my car like a f---ckin maniac man...Constant pedal, brake, pedal, brake.. That car handles it like a champ. Can't quite peel out without some assistance...it bogs dow at launch..part idle speed, part car weight. But it'll melt them without even a hint of struggle...not to mention pull killer 0-60's for stock. Can you say approx. 9.8 seconds on an automatic? Only thing I did was remove the air filter can (cheapo open element) w/ a K&N filter. I'm telling ya man..I'd ride your 3.1 'til it dies. I say it's got another 20,000 in it.

 

Man the 60* will not dies is right. Before my firebird which has 250000km on it, I had an oldmobile 87 cutlass ciera.

The olds had to have had over 400000 km on it. When I sold it, it had 315000, and the speedo/odometer cable was broken on it 2 years before I bought it And I mean it was my first car and I tortured it. Pealed it like mad.

That car is still running now as a taxi. Thats right that car will probably get 600000 km out of the same engine.

The 60* are one tough engine.

Now that I said this we will both find ourselves stranded with a thrown rod.

 

Im about to roll 200,000 on mine runs strong as hell and i have actualy tried to blow my engine and it wont ive over heated it past 260 and still drove it for a half hour doin 90 it didnt even phase it last night i brought it into the red at 6500 rpm i dono how fast i was goin way past 110 i pegged out the speedo. i think thsese engines never die. But 1 thing about mine is it had a rough idle when you sit to long is that from the milage?

 

Hey Fast RS,
Your lucky my sc which had 164,xxx miles didnt last but ten minutes when the lower radiator hose blew off and cracked both heads, and broke the crank in half That really ticked me off cause I had only drove it for a month and a half. Sadly I havent drinven it since then cause I'm doing a full resto to her, but on a good note by the end of the week she'll have fresh paint done by me.

 

but the thing is i wanted it to die and it didnt lol. It was interesting when id hit a stop light itd surge and luncge forward with my foot all the way on the brake

 

Mine idles real rough too. I think it's a combination of a)worn motor mounts, b)low idle speed, & c)lack of a tune up. Bought the car in garbage mechanical condition at 94,000...it's at 101,000 now and hasn't had a tune up yet. Let's see how long until I start burning oil and missing!

 

I do a tune up on my car 3 times a year just cuz i like her runnin in tip top shape and plugs and cap and rotor ar elike 30 bucks and i notce a nice difference after i do it too. Im one ofg those people if they hear the slightest nose they will go and fix it even if its nothing i fix it

 

Heh... If I had more money, I'd do that too. I hear and feel everything. Like 3 days after I did a little car surgery (removed the air can), I noticed the car was running differently..rougher in the higher rpms. Popped the tube off of the throttle body and ran my finger across the inside...dirt. Lol..I notice everything. Including my increasing amount of bad tranny noises. I just dont wanna pay to fix any of it considering the car's for sale..would you?

 

i refuse to sell any of my fbodys. My camaro i boght it the guy did temp fixes and i didnt know well i got screwed but i fixed it all it was my first car and ive had it since i was 16 im 19 now

 

Ooh...ouch. I bought mine and the radiator blew open, I discovered the tranny mounts were..well..non-existent..the fuel filter was dirty beyond belief along with the air filter. Had a massive oil leak from the distributor's crankshaft O-ring.. The list goes on..lol

 

Going on of the list
------------------------
-Front tires were near bald. After I got on the gas, I balded the rears out too.
-2 rear speakers are blown, fronts are close to it, and the aftermarket cassette player motor is shot
-A/C compressor's clutch is terrible...sucks probably 15 ponies out of the car when the clutch engages, makes the entire car shake and vibrate... That compressor might seize soon.

 

Enngine seales Freezeplugs both tranny and engine starter, alternator 5 times tranny rebuilt 3 times 3 new sets of tires but thsoe i got free, shocks new front fresciza powersteering pump 2 times knock sensor coolent temp sensor heatercore teanny mount 4 timeswaterpump. thers more stuff jsut cant think of it and all this stuff happend the first year i had it

 

Ooh, d*mn buddy. I forgot, my starter was rebuilt. Almost had to have it rebuilt a 2nd time too cause the oil leak from that o-ring was getting all over the starter and damaging it.

 

85SportCoupeto89RS

What color and will we see pics of the long awaited paint job?

 

on the topic of NOS this is the setup holley said would be great for a stock v6. and a complete kit no fuel pumps or other stuff needed.


part number 05120nos and will add 50-60HP safely to naturally aspirated, multi port electronically fuel injected engines. This is
normally enough power to drop the 1/4-mile times by 1-1.5+sec. This kit is also easy to install (about the same as a car stereo install w/amp/CD changer 3-5 hours).
:hail: No other mods. are required to run this kit. This kit is a "pressure boost" style of dry manifold nitrous kit.


How a dry system works (pressure boost style)

How a dry system works: when the system is activated, we send a boost signal to the car's fuel regulator, this closes down the fuel return line a bit further than
normal, this in turn raises the fuel pressure and so the fuel flow through the injector(s)increases. Once the fuel pressure/flow has been increased (we normally go
from 40 to 65 PSI) a fuel safety switch will allow a second nitrous solenoid to inject the nitrous into the air intake duct (normally about 1/2 way between the throttle
body and the air filter). The fuel and nitrous comes together in the combustion chamber and when burnt adds the HP.

Thanks, NOS Tech Dept.

 

does that NOS kit work for our car????

is it a kit made for our car or do we have to tweak with it to fit??

 

it should

i dont see why it wouldnt



oh yeah, i ask the parts manager at work about employee discounts on engines and he said he would have to look up the specific engine

so thats cool cuz he didnt say no about a discount

woo hoo

i guess once i get the Z28 on the road, i'll get the 3.4 and new fuel pump for the RS

 

No kidding! How are you doing it? Air compressor & regular gun? Gravity feed gun? HVLP or not? Where'd you get the paint? Do you need to add hardener to it? What kind of gloss? Does it matter what size tip you have on the spray gun?

Sorry for all the questions, but I want to shoot my car this summer; I have the air compressor and a $20 paint gun; I was thinking of buying an $80 gravity feed gun, and going from there. I figure my dad might let me do a body panel a day so I don't stink up the garage. I'm excited about it, because this time, I won't be using a power drill & wood sander to sand my car for bodywork- I have a D/a sander, a 4" grinder, and a welder now.

Last time I did all my own bodywork, and brought Maaco a perfect car. Now the paint is shot, and I don't want to go back to Maaco to get their cheap work; I'd rather spend the same cash and do it myself.

Thanks dude, I appreciate it!

 

"does that NOS kit work for our car???? "


yes its a 2.8 kit but i assume it will work on a 3.4 but the part number is backwards NOS-05120
if you enter that number at summitracing.com it shows the kit.

 

160,000 miles it needed a timming chain, now it runs great. Compression is alsmost as good as new the mechanic told me. I was once told that the 60 degree angle is the ideal angle, but it would be to big for large cube engines 225CI and bigger.

 

Brian,
Your statement is 100% CORRECT!
Our V-6 design is based on the FORD V-8 FLATHEAD OF THE LATE 20's!.
Same engine angle, 60*.
Meaning less side wear on the cylinder walls.
Make a wide V with fingers, that's a 90* V-6/V-8.
Now, go narrower.
Less side load on the cylinder walls.

 

yep the :hail: 2.8 173 60 degree engine is almost perfect, there is only one engine better and that is the 151.

there is some big forumla for engines and ones closest to 2.0 is perfection.
Rod / Stroke Ratio

a friend showed me the chart it was neat. the 2.8 is 1.9000
151 2.0100 which means they can rev higher than anything, easy 8000 rpm machine. closeest to 2.000 the better.

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablersr.htm#Chevy

so a 2.8 is better than a 3.4 when it comes to Rod / Stroke Ratio which is very important, if you can understand all that math **** and use it to your advantage.

 

lol in that chart our engine is listed as I6 173....

 

In the to the finish line race, torque will, 90%, always win.
Why?
Cheaper to produce torque (a 3.4 swap), then mod the as it sits, 2.8, to rev high enough, to cross the finish line first and stay intact, all at the same time!
Right now, I am going to swap in a 3.4 into my S-10 Blazer.
I can get a great running 3.4 engine, for way cheap (about $400+ for high milage one, I paid $800 for 40K 3.4).
Why go for only a 2.8?
As in countless Dragstrip shoot out, magazine articles.
Dollar for Dollar, Torque (Big Blocks over Small Blocks) rules the dragstrip.
Ninety Percent of the time.

 

Joe L my car will be black. I'm putting the primer on tomorow morning and will snap a few pics of her. Friday or Saturday I will be putting the black paint on.
Tom P, I am using an air compressor and a gravity feed gun. I got my paint for bumper to bumper, and its called Nasom made by Dupont it is a one stage paint. I have no ideas about the size of the tips I just use what came with the spray gun. I would rather paint the whole car at once than one panel at a time. Are you gonna block sand any bondo you have to put onto your car? Dont use the da to sand the bondo smooth with the rest of the body. Be happy you dont have to use the da during 30 degree tempatures sanding a 1/4 of paint over paint crap then to find some bad damage from the center of the drivers door all the way to the end to the rear quarter panel fender well.

 

So...according to that 2.0 chart..the 2.8 is better than what I have, the 3.1 V-6. Interesting.. Funny though...EVERY 2.8 I've EVER raced, I've left in the dust and coughing. By at least a car length every time. Hmm...food for thought. Lol...

 

far as Rod / Stroke Ratio
goes the 2.8 is a winner but you would need to match the right parts into the engine, even though is has the perfect Rod / Stroke Ratio that does not mean GM took advantage of it.


off base kinda but

a 72 750 triple bike with little mods only has about 70hp but does an easy mid to hi 9 in the 1/4 mile when many brand new stock 100+ hp bikes even with mods can not hang, the tripple is a two stroke bike which inturn reves much faster.

 

I see... Well, I can attribute my victories to raw statistics. 5 more ponies, 20 more ft lbs. Simple as that. That and my car runs surprisingly well...never known why, it was/is treated like sh*t. Even though I repair it, doesn't mean I don't treat it like sh*t. You should see how I drive it. No wonder my tranny is acting up on me! At least it race shifts..if it didn't do that, I'm sure I'd have dropped it by now...the firmness of the shifts is preserving that tranny. That's about all. I was stuck behind a truck today doing 40 on a 45 street..and I almost pulled the car over I was so pissed. Car was screaming like a banshee between gears..thing couldn't just pick one. Lol.... That and my car just hates to run at 40 mph. Well actually, really between 35 and 45. Sensor problems I think....car slows down, car returns to normal..car slows down, car returns to normal, car shudders and slows down, car returns to normal. (The shudder is, I guess, tranny slippage). But the slowing..I'm thinking TPS. And my cruise control takes about 5 attempts to activate..and when activated, holds the car VERY LOOSELY (5 mph variance, always lower never higher) at about 5 mph below what I set it at. Once again, I think TPS. This seems to be a popular post, so I figure what the hell...as good a place as any to rant.

 

My engine fixes it self lol i had a bad noise liek a bad valve spring or something the nose was there 4 months and went away havent herd it since my IAC was bad i didn thave money to fix it my car would surge at idle dosnet do it any more 700 more miles to go and ill hit the 200,000 mark
oh please tell me ill retuen to all 000000000 cuz i dont want to have it showin 200,000 its a 91 RS if that makes any difference

 

Ha..dang man. Wish I was that lucky. My car fixes itself sometimes. For a day, or a week. Then the problem comes back..sometimes worse.

 

"oh please tell me ill retuen to all 000000000 "

nope, mine is at 204,000

 

Cool, thanks for the info! I'd rather do the whole car at once, too, but my dad'll have a fit if I fill the garage with fumes. And I know all about the bondo & sanding; I had to pretty much re-make the entire right rear 1/4 panel out of bondo. Came out damn good, too. But I never stopped the rust that was under the bondo of the previous guy- I thought I did- and it came back with a vengence. The whole RR is falling apart. I'll use the DA to scuff the old paint up. Who knows; the paint might fall off, and I'll wind up going right to bare metal! (I hope not, I've done that already, man, what a pain.) Prep work & bodywork is no problem for me, I've just never shot any paint or primer besides from spray cans.

Where did you find the paint? Online, or a body shop, or did you hunt down a paint store? By one stage, does that mean you don't have to add any hardeners or catalysts? Is one stage better, or is it a good "middle road" between "worst" and "most expensive" paint? Do you know if it's an enamel or other? Is it compatible only with the primer you bought? How do you like the gun you bought? Was it a no-namer (my preference!) or a $400 one? Sorry again for all the questions...

 

what you need is some "mircal paint" is the name, it goes right over rust and kills it. you can then paint or bondo right over it with out fear. it is a very old well known product that works.

 

durable? You guys have a different experience than me. My camaro is currently on its third engine and first tranny rebuild i know about with 147,000 on it. I didnt blow the first two motors, the car was abused. Apparently the car didnt like abuse, and currently almost everything on it has broken. Well, finally I have most of the bugs worked out.

 

I got my paint from bumper to bumper auto store. My paint is enamel. I have to use reducer for the paint also. I dont rember where my dad got the paint gun but its a no namer. I like it alot. Today I got my car primed. And tomorow if the weather is above 65 degrees I will put the real paint on Heres a pic of the right rear. It s almost impossible to notice that there was major damage.

 

That pic still had wet paint on it, so theres dark and light spots. This one had all my gfx's painted that I did eailer this morning.

 

hey why not just leave it in primer? you ever see a 68-69 bird camaro in primer gray with a set of M/T rims and tires.

Nothing but the big white tach on the dash and the M/T denters on the rims to set it off.

man do they look tough.

 

Yeah, they do look tough....but butt ugly too. I saw a 69 Firebird in the drive-thru at my work once..big block under the hood. Well actually, I can't say that cause he had no hood. It had that kinda paint job...primer gray. Lol..had to push the thing out when he turned it off, and tried to start it again...everytime the engine turned over, sparks flew from his battery terminals. Funniest thing I've seen in a long time.

 

Owning a 1967 Camaro Convertible
and 1968 Camaro
They look a million percent better in color.
I had a 1969 Camaro in black primer and gave it away.
I had a 1969 Firebird, in color and had to give that way too.
Only way I'd have a 1967-69 f-body in primer is on way to paint booth.

 

The primer job looks good! I like how you pulled the locks and door handles out; I did the same thing. Since I was bringing the car to Maaco, I used the spray cans to shoot black sapphire metallic in the areas where the handles/locks go, then when it dried, I put the handles/locks back in.

Thanks for the info about the paint! I'll have to go pick up a no-namer gravity feed gun one of these days. Are you going to prep the primer with a d/a, or by hand? Oh and did you have to go all the way to bare metal, or was your old paint a good enough surface?

I drove around in primer for a while... it was the best! If the car got dirty, it took 10 minutes to wash- why bother drying it? But man, there's nothing like driving around in color... especially after, hm, wow, almost two years (!) of driving around in primer.

 

Oh boy I cant wait until friday I have a gallon of black paint to put on so I will have a nice thick coat paint.I used a da to sand down to bare metal since ther was a $hit load of damage on the driver side. If you dont want to go down to bare metal then get some sealer paint,all you have to do is smooth out the paint, prep it and shot the primer on it.

 

TomP that paint gun looks exactly like mine does.I would have posted it on my thread but it likely got locked for no technical content, eh oh well :lala:

 

my 3.1 V6 has 260000 miles on the counter and it just keeps on going. and yes it even had some backfires where it would blow my plastic intake house ( the 1 above the radiator ). after i fixed the pipe and the ignition it just keeps going.....and going..... and going....

 

Did you seriously just bring back an almost 6 year old thread???