How do i modify my airbox?
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 5,244
Likes: 14
From: Sac, CA
Car: '89 GTA
Axle/Gears: 3.27/9-bolt
How do i modify my airbox?
Can someone link me to that? Did a search and can't come up with it.
What's the most effective (& easiest) way to do it and what change if any will i notice? Thanks!
What's the most effective (& easiest) way to do it and what change if any will i notice? Thanks!
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 827
Likes: 0
From: Tenino, Washington
Car: 89 f-bird and some others
Engine: 3.4
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
From what I've read on here if you're modifying the stock airbox, take the bottom off somehow. I haven't tried it yet. Just browse the the older posts and look at air intake stuff
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
First thing you could try is to snap the edge of the lid. There's one spot, hopefully facing forward, where the lid has a slant to it. Under that slant is where the hole is to take in air. (85-89 Firebirds take in dirty air from the center of the filter, 90-92 Firebirds take in dirty air from the outside of the filter.)
If you take pliers, and bend that lid backwards, it'll usually snap off, and you can increase the air flow that way.
Otherwise, you need to ditch the stock airbox, and create your own air filter setup. It's a good idea to get rid of that ridiculous rectangular "air duct", too. I replaced mine with 3" mandrel-bent exhaust pipe.
If you take pliers, and bend that lid backwards, it'll usually snap off, and you can increase the air flow that way.
Otherwise, you need to ditch the stock airbox, and create your own air filter setup. It's a good idea to get rid of that ridiculous rectangular "air duct", too. I replaced mine with 3" mandrel-bent exhaust pipe.
Originally posted by TomP
(85-89 Firebirds take in dirty air from the center of the filter, 90-92 Firebirds take in dirty air from the outside of the filter.)
(85-89 Firebirds take in dirty air from the center of the filter, 90-92 Firebirds take in dirty air from the outside of the filter.)
BUZZER!!!!!!!!!
I'm sorry Tomp, the answer we were looking for was 85-87 take in air from the center of the filter, 88-89 filter from the outside in, and 90-92 do the same but without a maf. But don't worry tomp, we have plenty of consolation prizes for you. Tell him what he's won!!!!
Well Drew, today Tomp gets a handy dandy link to the tech data...
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/techdb.shtml
Hey Herbavore...
Check out the following links... BTW all of these are in the technical articals on the main page at https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/S...49/ramair.html
http://exit3.i-55.com/~davidlt/air_intake.htm
http://87tagta.tripod.com/coldair.htm
Pick one you like and work with it.
Herbavore,
I figure I might as well throw this out there while I'm here...
The #1 restriction in your current air intake is the canister around the filter. You can relocate the iat/mat to the ducting and remove the can completely. Just remove the lid, filter, and can, then set the filter back ontop of the canisters base, then tighten down the lid. The base and the lid will seal the filter. Also you can cut holes in the canister to flow more air but then your taking time to cut parts and all that nonsense.
After the canister the next restriction is your MAF. Technically you could remove the screens and cut out the fins same as a V8 maf, but then again thats probably not a good idea at all.
You may also want to look into SLP... MPFI V6's use TPI V8 air intake ducting, so a V8 cold air induction should work on a V6, but send word to your wallet's next of kin, cause its probably going to have a shocking impact.
I figure I might as well throw this out there while I'm here...
The #1 restriction in your current air intake is the canister around the filter. You can relocate the iat/mat to the ducting and remove the can completely. Just remove the lid, filter, and can, then set the filter back ontop of the canisters base, then tighten down the lid. The base and the lid will seal the filter. Also you can cut holes in the canister to flow more air but then your taking time to cut parts and all that nonsense.
After the canister the next restriction is your MAF. Technically you could remove the screens and cut out the fins same as a V8 maf, but then again thats probably not a good idea at all.
You may also want to look into SLP... MPFI V6's use TPI V8 air intake ducting, so a V8 cold air induction should work on a V6, but send word to your wallet's next of kin, cause its probably going to have a shocking impact.
Drew - is my 3.4 Long Block Swap Boogie on that Tech Section?
How I did my 1985 modified air inlet.
Effectiveness is in increase in filter layers of dirt.
Air Box lid.
I got a spare one.
I took a heat gun to lid and flattened that lid. Now lid extends past radiator core support, still attached.
Hood. I looked at hood brace area.
I removed sections of it, to allow more air to flow to revised lid.
I cut thru, not removing the bottom, removed sides.
Next,
I found, outta my pile of "stuff", PVC Tube, for some air inlet/car-unknown. Ya find these, $1 at swap meets.
It sticks out bottom, curves thru fender, level to bottom of air box, by pass. fender turn signal.
I have a air inlet hose from my 1975 Opel Wagon, Fuel Injected (78-89 ownership, 151,000 mi).
That old friend hose brings the air to the front of the air box space, between the radiator support area.
I get "fresher, cooler air" from top and bottom.
I also utilized Tom's 3" pipe idea. I have left over dryer hose, attached/held up by upper radiator hose, removing that "air box silencer".
I have foam insulation between, heat insulation.
I want to show pics. Got digi camera, uploader arriving soon.
Make sure you have spare lid to destroy.
Really need heat gun to bend lid properly/effectivly. That extra, extension flap, is good thing/operating scoop.
According to Honda 10 secs racers, their best, effective air set ups come off the ground.
How I did my 1985 modified air inlet.
Effectiveness is in increase in filter layers of dirt.
Air Box lid.
I got a spare one.
I took a heat gun to lid and flattened that lid. Now lid extends past radiator core support, still attached.
Hood. I looked at hood brace area.
I removed sections of it, to allow more air to flow to revised lid.
I cut thru, not removing the bottom, removed sides.
Next,
I found, outta my pile of "stuff", PVC Tube, for some air inlet/car-unknown. Ya find these, $1 at swap meets.
It sticks out bottom, curves thru fender, level to bottom of air box, by pass. fender turn signal.
I have a air inlet hose from my 1975 Opel Wagon, Fuel Injected (78-89 ownership, 151,000 mi).
That old friend hose brings the air to the front of the air box space, between the radiator support area.
I get "fresher, cooler air" from top and bottom.
I also utilized Tom's 3" pipe idea. I have left over dryer hose, attached/held up by upper radiator hose, removing that "air box silencer".
I have foam insulation between, heat insulation.
I want to show pics. Got digi camera, uploader arriving soon.
Make sure you have spare lid to destroy.
Really need heat gun to bend lid properly/effectivly. That extra, extension flap, is good thing/operating scoop.
According to Honda 10 secs racers, their best, effective air set ups come off the ground.
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KED
If you have it written up in a step by step manner that's easy to follow, put it in a text or HTML file and send it to Dirk. Just use his email address for his username... in other words click the members link, find dirk and get his email there.
He usually holds them till he has a couple then adds them all at once... then again sometimes submissions get lost, or swept under the carpet.
If you have it written up in a step by step manner that's easy to follow, put it in a text or HTML file and send it to Dirk. Just use his email address for his username... in other words click the members link, find dirk and get his email there.
He usually holds them till he has a couple then adds them all at once... then again sometimes submissions get lost, or swept under the carpet.
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,128
Likes: 0
From: UCIrvine or SFV, CA
Car: 1999 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: LS1 - 346 ci
Transmission: 4L60E
Originally posted by Drew
[B]
BUZZER!!!!!!!!!
I'm sorry Tomp, the answer we were looking for was 85-87 take in air from the center of the filter, 88-89 filter from the outside in, and 90-92 do the same but without a maf. But don't worry tomp, we have plenty of consolation prizes for you. Tell him what he's won!!!!
[B]
BUZZER!!!!!!!!!
I'm sorry Tomp, the answer we were looking for was 85-87 take in air from the center of the filter, 88-89 filter from the outside in, and 90-92 do the same but without a maf. But don't worry tomp, we have plenty of consolation prizes for you. Tell him what he's won!!!!
Oh, and replacing the o2 sensor is a real big help for gas mileage. When I shut the car off, it doesn't smell like unburned fuel anymore.
If thats correct then the 88-89 V6 firebirds got slightly mistreated by GM... The first thing I'd be doing if I had the old style intake ducting is to upgrade to the later hardware. I'm still not convinced this is accurate, I'll have to research it the next time I'm at the junkyard.
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,128
Likes: 0
From: UCIrvine or SFV, CA
Car: 1999 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: LS1 - 346 ci
Transmission: 4L60E
Kinda hard to see, but my car has that really restrictive intake. You can see the filter lid is the kind with the slant.
That's my style.
FIRST THING.
Face opening toward the front.
Second, gather ANY cords/cables, etc... in that area and make sure the air openings are "clear" (holes in radiator core support).
Third, take the passenger side hood rubber bump stop, unscrew it. On the hood!!
Then attack head lamp area.
Loosen some bolts, to lower the inside corner of the headlamp assembly, assembly closed (daytime operation).
Close your hood.
Your air opening should be about 1/2 now, to feed more air in.
Read my previous tips, again, to make it better.
Still awaiting my uploader to pass a pic.
It will look so hokey, but does work better, now.
I mean, I really have to clean my filter, I finally got it truly dirty.
FIRST THING.
Face opening toward the front.
Second, gather ANY cords/cables, etc... in that area and make sure the air openings are "clear" (holes in radiator core support).
Third, take the passenger side hood rubber bump stop, unscrew it. On the hood!!
Then attack head lamp area.
Loosen some bolts, to lower the inside corner of the headlamp assembly, assembly closed (daytime operation).
Close your hood.
Your air opening should be about 1/2 now, to feed more air in.
Read my previous tips, again, to make it better.
Still awaiting my uploader to pass a pic.
It will look so hokey, but does work better, now.
I mean, I really have to clean my filter, I finally got it truly dirty.
I'm gonna be at Cruiser's this Friday night.
Hoping to see Graeme, he has some old wheels I'm buying.
I'll show ya my set up there.
If you see Graeme, tell him contact me, I got money for him!
I don't know what his Mustang looks like.
Hoping to see Graeme, he has some old wheels I'm buying.
I'll show ya my set up there.
If you see Graeme, tell him contact me, I got money for him!
I don't know what his Mustang looks like.
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