87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Hi folks, I had these made for someone and just wanted to pass on the idea. I do have a few extra sets if anyone needs any.

They are drilled for both our stock 5x4.75" bolt pattern and the BMW and modern GM 5x120mm bolt pattern. This would be a good option for someone running BMW or Camaro SS wheels.

They also use the larger 1LE outer bearing (SET3). They are made of 6061-T6 aluminum and are black anodized.

Thanks,

John

heat seeker

iTrader: (5)

What do you charge for a set of these? Also. what type of spindles do these mount on?

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

PM sent regarding pricing.

They work on the stock spindles. They do use the larger 1LE outer bearing. This bearing has the same inner diameter as stock to fit on the stock spindle pin.

Hubs include ARP studs, Timken bearings and seals, and dust caps.

John

406TPI

iTrader: (1)

Very nice!

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Finally got a break in the weather a took a few better pictures.

caffeine

iTrader: (2)

I'm also interested in price. These would be used with a brake upgrade, right?

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Private message sent.

Yes, these are for brake swaps only. They are the same offset as OEM integral hub/rotor.

They include:
Timken bearings
Timken seals
ARP studs
stamped dust caps
billet dust caps (+$35)

92RS(real slow)

These are awesome

Berlyn0963

iTrader: (4)

wow nice, i wonder how much these would run

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

Price please.

Gunny Highway

iTrader: (1)

So just to be clear, by running these and the supplied bolts, one could run either 120 or 120.65 wheels?

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

Very nice, I'm intreated, If you could PM me a price please, thank you.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Yes.

The hubs are drilled for both 5x4.75" (120.65mm) and 5x120mm. You tell me which wheels you plan to run, I install the studs in the correct holes and ship the hubs to you. If later you change wheels to the other bolt pattern, you would knock out the studs and re-install them in the other set of holes.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

I was trying to not post the price here, as I'm not sure if it is allowed, but have received enough interest.

Price is $435 shipped to the lower 48.

Price includes:

Hubs - 6061 T6 AL, anodized black
ARP 12mm wheel studs
Timken bearings (SET6 and SET3) - larger 1LE sized outer bearing
Timken seals
stamped steel dust cap (billet aluminum caps are +$35)

The hubs are 4lbs lighter each than an OEM rotor modified into a hub. Hubs are the same offset as OEM rotors modified into a hub.

John

Gunny Highway

iTrader: (1)

Which is what exactly?

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Really, the offset is generally defined from the hub or rotor surface. So its hard to define what exactly the offset of the hub is. I think it is useful to compare it to OEM since that is what everyone understands.

So these place the hub surface in the same place as the wheel surface on the OEM rotors.

To be more specific the distance from the edge of the spindle snout to the hub mounting surface is 2 9/16" when installed.

John

Gunny Highway

iTrader: (1)

And though you state these are for 1LE brakes, I guess that really means they'll work with any larger brake set up . . . . such as my Baer kit or the 5th Gen brake kit?

So really what this does is act as an adapter therefore allowing those who want to run BMW wheels don't have to get hubcentric rings or wobble nuts . . . and allows us to switch back to 120.65 wheels in the future if we so choose?

. . . that's the down and dirty, Barney version I suppose???

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

I think I may have added some confusion with the 1LE bearing thing.

These are the same offset as the OEM 10.5" brake rotor. However I had them machined for the larger 1LE SET3 outer bearing. So you get all the advantages of the 1LE bearing without the extra offset.

Now what you need for brakes depends. Many kits (any Vette, LS1, Wilwood) use an OEM rotor turned down to a hub. Others (1LE, 5th gen, 09+ CTS-V) require the extra offset of the 1LE hub in order to use an adequate thickness caper bracket. In this case you would use a 1LE rotor and turn it down into a hub.

So to clarify my hubs here work great on kits that normally use the OEM rotor as a hub. However my hubs have the following advantages over using an OEM rotor:
- larger outer bearing
- dual bolt pattern
- 4lbs lighter each

My hubs can be used for the brake kits that normally use the 1LE but using a spacer between the hub and rotor. This is not ideal of course, but I don't see a major issue with it. I can do customs with "any" offset but the cost begins to skyrocket for one off sets.

There are discussions on the whole hubcentric and wobble nut deal on here. I won't get into it here. If you are interested I can dig it up. In short, hub centric rings do NOT fix the problems associate with running wheels of the wrong bolt pattern for the car (wheel studs in bending). Wobble nuts do solve the issue of wheel studs in bending but now you have lost the locating ability of the lug nuts. In this case you would need to have a very good hub centric fit to center the wheels. I personally would not run these on my vehicle.

Another good solution is to re-bore wheels to the correct bolt pattern as //<86TA>\\ has done.