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Wheels and TiresNeed help with wheels or tires? Got fitment issues? Have questions about tire performance and handling? Ask all of those questions here!
I really really like the look and stance of this car.
I was wondering if anyone has any information about the rims and tires or who owns the car ?.
Wondering...???
What make or model did the rims come off, if used set ?
What size are the rims?
What is the tire size , front and rear, off set ?
What is the rear rim width ?
Those are HRE wheels. Unless you find a used set, look at spending a minimum of $5k for the set.
WOW...the suck's BIG TiME...my car is not worth that
What do you think he is running in the rear...and how wide is that rim..??
What's the closest chi-knee knock off to that rim..??
I really really like the look and stance of this car.
I was wondering if anyone has any information about the rims and tires or who owns the car ?.
Wondering...???
What make or model did the rims come off, if used set ?
What size are the rims?
What is the tire size , front and rear, off set ?
What is the rear rim width ?
They may be HRE but there are a lot of wheel companies that make very similar wheels. They probably 18x9 front and 18x10 rear. Looking at the car and neighborhood, I'm thinking they are not a set of $5k wheels...
Originally Posted by NWFreerider
It does have a mean stance.
Those are indeed HRE wheels. That car in the picture was wrecked and he transferred everything over to his new car.
There are HRE
I had xxr 521 and 531 also
One on my sig are 521
HRE where 19x10.5 and 19x9.5 where spec out for a M3 from guy I traded apex arc 8
White car had a engine fire then I acquired the black one as ol lady said I couldn't repairs it so made a deal I wouldn't only if I got another one lol which wasn't my intentions but that's another storie
They may be HRE but there are a lot of wheel companies that make very similar wheels. They probably 18x9 front and 18x10 rear. Looking at the car and neighborhood, I'm thinking they are not a set of $5k wheels...
What does that even mean? "Looking at the car and neighborhood"? Talk about a dipshit comment
There are HRE
I had xxr 521 and 531 also
One on my sig are 521
HRE where 19x10.5 and 19x9.5 where spec out for a M3 from guy I traded apex arc 8
White car had a engine fire then I acquired the black one as ol lady said I couldn't repairs it so made a deal I wouldn't only if I got another one lol which wasn't my intentions but that's another storie
Is it possible to fit a 10.5 on the rear with no mod's to the car ..??
Last year when I started my LS mod I bought the UMI rear coilovers but am having second thoughts I think I'd rather have the Ground control kit. I haven't driven the car yet with the coilovers but since I want to do the front end also I don't know. Sell the coilovers and buy Ground control... HMMM
UMI uses Viking. They are a spin-off of QA1 - both MN companies, hence the Viking name.
Rear coil-overs make sense. You're not going to vary the rear-end that much, so weight jacks could be overkill for the amount of height adjustment on the rear. You do need the plates up top for the coil-overs. Spohn offers QA1 and UMI offers Viking - same kit, basically. I don't know the Viking model #, but I had Spohn's QA1 so I researched QA1 specs: ManufacturerModel #RangeCollapsedExtendedStandard Spring RateSpring Height
QA1
DS703 16" 13" 19.5" #175 12"
DS603 15.25" 12.5" 18.75" #175 12"
DS503 13.25" 12"
Jri 14" 12" 17" #275
RideTech HQ6110 14" 11.34" 16.5" #200 12"
AFCO 3860PTCZ 14.4" 12.18" 18.08 12-14"
Detroit Speed offers the JRI's - too $$$.
I went with RideTech #250 and I'm very happy. Made by Fox with Hyperco springs. Make sure you know the intended range before you buy, coil-overs give only a little adjustment, not inches, plural.
I do have WJ's up front.
While working on rust repair in the wheel well I made the final decision on the front springs, I'm going to use the Ground Control kit with Koni's. I don't care how you look at it I do not believe that thin 20 gage sheet metal can reliably support the front end of the car for street abuse. Looking at the spot welds anywhere from 1" to 2" apart in light gage sheet metal is a recipe for a disaster so the coil over kit on the front end is out. The UMI coil over kit on the rear will stay unless I find it is not working for me.
Good choice on the front - don't recommend coil-overs. I did however, use the coil-over plate as insurance:
As long as you stay within the range on those Vikings, you'll be fine. I'm lowered (reason for the WJ's), so I needed to match the intended range. That's why I got rid of the QA1's. Plus, the Fox shocks are better, IMO.