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Wheels and TiresNeed help with wheels or tires? Got fitment issues? Have questions about tire performance and handling? Ask all of those questions here!
You would need to post the wheels specs, offset ect. I only found a +20 offset which would need a shim in tye back and a little hammering and maybe 1/2-3/4 in the front. Not sure why you just bought 2" spacers without knowing what you were doing, that was a waste of money.
Bolt pattern is 5x120, so thats up to you but its not 100% correct and a bad idea no matter what someone else may tell you.
I used a 1.25" adapter on the fronts (also flattened bearing dust cap for center cap clearance) and a .75" adapter on the rear, with 285/35 all around. Mine is lowered by taking 1 coil off of the front stock springs, and 3/4 coil on the rears with an adjustable panhard (86 IROC).
I do get mild rubbing in the front at full lock or 75/80 mph bridge transitions, without any rolling, removing inner fender liners, etc. Rear will rub with a decent road drop or bridge, and that's after rolling those fenders a bit (will be doing more eventually, but they do not rub hard enough to damage the tire as it is now).
I did not have to do any inner work on the rears, I assume because of the spacer/adapter relocating the rub to the outside. I used the adapter to get bolt pattern and fender spacing equaled out. Currently has the factory rear end with drum brakes.
I used a 1.25" adapter on the fronts (also flattened bearing dust cap for center cap clearance) and a .75" adapter on the rear, with 285/35 all around. Mine is lowered by taking 1 coil off of the front stock springs, and 3/4 coil on the rears with an adjustable panhard (86 IROC).
I do get mild rubbing in the front at full lock or 75/80 mph bridge transitions, without any rolling, removing inner fender liners, etc. Rear will rub with a decent road drop or bridge, and that's after rolling those fenders a bit (will be doing more eventually, but they do not rub hard enough to damage the tire as it is now).
I did not have to do any inner work on the rears, I assume because of the spacer/adapter relocating the rub to the outside. I used the adapter to get bolt pattern and fender spacing equaled out. Currently has the factory rear end with drum brakes.
got any pics of yours . im gonna buy the detroit speed lowering springs
All of the 18x10.5 in the 5x120 pattern are +20 offset. The black car (dbltke) has a few more mods done to his suspension (lcarbs, camber plates, weight jacks) and metal clearance than mine, and his front tire is a 245 that is very stretched with a pretty heavy camber. The 2" spacers were for a set of 4th gen wheels I believe, with the XXR he ran a 1 1/4 front and 3/8 rear. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...ml#post5923612
The first picture is stock IROC wheel with the factory slip on spacer and 245/50/16, second is XXR (all 285/35) with no spacer, and third is with a 1" adapter/spacer. Front has a 1 1/4" adapter/spacer.
So the takeaway from that thread are that they are most definitely NOT 2" spacers. ...and while I don't know for sure....2" will probably cause rubbing. Also, he's only running a 245 tire. Sooooooo while it's cool to say you're running a big fat wheel up front, in reality, it's a stock width tire. All the problems of a big tire with none of the benefits. Nothing WRONG with a 245, but you'd be much better off with a 8 or 9" wide wheel. NOT a 10.5". ....or run a bigger tire, but then, even MORE chance of rubbing.
So the takeaway from that thread are that they are most definitely NOT 2" spacers. ...and while I don't know for sure....2" will probably cause rubbing. Also, he's only running a 245 tire. Sooooooo while it's cool to say you're running a big fat wheel up front, in reality, it's a stock width tire. All the problems of a big tire with none of the benefits. Nothing WRONG with a 245, but you'd be much better off with a 8 or 9" wide wheel. NOT a 10.5". ....or run a bigger tire, but then, even MORE chance of rubbing.
im gonna run a 275/35/18 up front . i may not be able to do a 2" drop . i might have to go with different springs
im gonna run a 275/35/18 up front . i may not be able to do a 2" drop . i might have to go with different springs
I’ve had these exact wheels laying around my garage for quite some time now. Seems every time I go to pull the trigger and buy tires something gets in the way. I’m planning on 275/35R18 rears and either 245 or 255/35R18 up front. As you can see from my pics when I test fitted the wheels over 2 years ago, the front will require both camber and some stretch tire fitment to work. I’ll be running this set up for local cruises / car shows and taking the family down the road for ice cream. In other words, show not go. I wouldn’t recommend this setup in any way for performance. I have another set of wheels for that. Hopefully if all works out I’ll finally have the wheels & tires mounted (with pics) by late March
Last edited by TriSt8-Z; Jan 12, 2021 at 06:39 PM.
So first go around I just slapped the wheel on, no adapter or anything. It will fit, but you can tell that even though the bolt patterns are very close....it’s just not quite right...and I’m sure with my luck something very bad would happen once out on the road
a friend of mine felt it would be “goofy” to have a wider front track than in the rear. So I slapped on the 1.25” adapter on the rear and things look pretty good as you can see in the attached pics. Keep in mind, these wheels have a “reverse hub” and the tire bead is not going to seat at the very edge of the rim. So I’m planning on running the 1.25” all around to comply with the 5x120 bolt pattern. I’m sure there will be a little massaging in the wheel well to avoid rubbing...and I might even dial back on tire size to a 265 width (I haven’t fully decided yet)
as I said previously, in my opinion this is purely for show / appearance and local cruising, no auto cross, etc. But, as you see on that black car...it looks killer!
All of the 18x10.5 in the 5x120 pattern are +20 offset. The black car (dbltke) has a few more mods done to his suspension (lcarbs, camber plates, weight jacks) and metal clearance than mine, and his front tire is a 245 that is very stretched with a pretty heavy camber. The 2" spacers were for a set of 4th gen wheels I believe, with the XXR he ran a 1 1/4 front and 3/8 rear. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...ml#post5923612
The first picture is stock IROC wheel with the factory slip on spacer and 245/50/16, second is XXR (all 285/35) with no spacer, and third is with a 1" adapter/spacer. Front has a 1 1/4" adapter/spacer.what size are these tires .
is there enogh room on the rear to run a 295 if you use a different wheel spacer
Yes, I believe you can. When I was looking, it seems there was someone running a 315/30 on these all the way around. Can't remember if that one was lowered or not, or if they had spacers. Mine is stock drum rear in those pics, don't know if disc rears are the same width. I didn't drive it without the spacer/adapter, so I'm not sure if I would have rubbed the inside at that point. Just looking then when mounted I didn't see clearance issues inside and definitely not outside with rolled fenders. A majority of the rubbing I get is from what I believe are the original springs sagged and weakened, and it's only the outer edge on fairly extreme road changes/dips etc.
i think im gonna get 285 this time . im gonna run car na this summer so that should be plenty tire . then ill do my measurements when i add the turbo an t56 tranny
A 285 is still a hell of a lot more than what was there stock, and overall height remains virtually the same. The stock 245/50/16 is 25.65 inches tall, where the 285/35/18 is 25.85. Even with the semi-stock suspension setup, the handling was drastically improved (my old front tires still had more tread remaining than this, the rears would just get a few more revolutions put on them pretty much any time it was driven ). Being able to truly rotate them myself was another motivator to go square, but under stock power the rears just didn't seem to wear as quick anymore. I am curious to hear your impressions on that Summit cam in a NA application, have been looking at it for a while just not a lot of feedback on it out there that I've found.
from what ive seen these cams make around 415 hp . should only be a couple months na . i gotta get the car home . its over at my buddys garage till i get the engine in it
All of the 18x10.5 in the 5x120 pattern are +20 offset. The black car (dbltke) has a few more mods done to his suspension (lcarbs, camber plates, weight jacks) and metal clearance than mine, and his front tire is a 245 that is very stretched with a pretty heavy camber. The 2" spacers were for a set of 4th gen wheels I believe, with the XXR he ran a 1 1/4 front and 3/8 rear. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...ml#post5923612
The first picture is stock IROC wheel with the factory slip on spacer and 245/50/16, second is XXR (all 285/35) with no spacer, and third is with a 1" adapter/spacer. Front has a 1 1/4" adapter/spacer.
did the frontwheel pull up on the hub good enough not to be dangerous
might hope to get a bit wider tires for the next set. would look a bit better with some sidewall roundness or "bulge" to the tire. its all very straight up and stretched.
did the frontwheel pull up on the hub good enough not to be dangerous
I used a lug centric spacer/adapter, and in my opinion once bolted becomes an extension of the hub. Bolted on properly, it just extends the wheel's mounting plane out further. I had to flatten the dust cover on the hub a little bit for the center cap to go on, but I don't have any concerns as far as the safety of it as a whole.
it dont run yet . im building the engine . im not sure about fitment until i get the engine in an the ride height where it needs to be . if i need to ill get a set if 18x9 but im hoping it is alright