So, uh...what do ya'll know about vats????

I have an 89 Camaro RS that I recently switched over to carb. it fired up once (after having to click the key a few times), then I went to start it again and it wouldn't. There's the annoying "locust-like" sound (from the module on the kick panel) occasionally when it won't start and that module has a fat green wire, a skinny green wire, then a fat yellow wire, then another fat yellow wire (see illustrations A & A1). I already installed quick disconnects so I can over ride it when someone tells me how to. I have a few questions to go along with it though: I'm using manual choke (I live in Phoenix so when will I ever really need electric?) so my ecm controlled fuel injectors aren't being used at all. So with that stated, can't I just bypass vats altogether without having any problems at all or having to use transistors? Another concern I have is in illustration B. That's the only small connector I see under the steering column. Is this the vats connector so many EFI people search day and night for? Or am I still just an uneducated little boy who's having too much fun looking for wires? I would like to know if it's something that controls the vats system for future reference (f-bodies are fun). I think that's all. Thanks a bunch. --Tru

 

First off, congrats on the baby-to-be.

Second, there is no real easy way to ditch VATS that I'm aware of. It interrupts the starter wire and maybe more- I don't really know. However, it's a simple system that basically just reads the resistance across the "chip" in the key. If it's not what it expects, it won't give you start capability. It' just purely a thing between the ignition key and the ECM as far as I know.

If VATS is raining on your parade you won't get ANY activity when you turn to Start. No click, no nothing. If something's making noise when you turn the key, I doubt VATS is your problem.

Others are much more knowlegable about VATS than I am.

 

Being that you are Carbed now, you should be able to get rid of almost all the crap for the most part. Picture "A" in fact is the connection that leads the Vats module in the ignition to the PASS key module yes. "B" appears to be a broken open Fuel pump relay. Are you still running the Electric Fuel pump?? If so get rid of it, or at least put a Fuel pressure regulator, as a Carb only requiers about 7 - 8 psi, and not 40 or 50.

 

Thanks. The fuel pump relay (i guess that's what you said it is) isn't broken, i just had it opened in the picture. I have the regulator already set up, and I just got my fp gauge in from summit this morning. When I put the key in my car, the pump turns on for a second (to prime the injectors) then waits for me to turn the key. I have a new starter in there (what a pain in the butt to get in) and everything should be going smooth. The copper wrapped thing in picture A1 is what's making the locust sound. When I turn the key, the switch in it moves over to touch the coil. Sometimes it flutters against it, others it just touches the coil. I have no idea which it's supposed to do so i don't want to go out and buy another one just so it can do the same thing. The resistor i'm trying to find to bypass the vats (to see if that's even my problem) is nowhere to be found. I know that viper car alarms has a set of resistors in the boxes of it's high end alarms and i think that's my best bet. radio shack and fry's electronics have proved to be sucky excuses for electronics superstores. So I primarily need information on the starter relay switch, the fuel pump relay, and vats. it's greatly appreciated. thanks for your reply's. --Tru

 

Fist off I have a 89 Iroc that I switched to carb and in order to bypass vats and get the car to start and run I had to take that
modual behind the driver's side kick panel and one of the green or yellow thin/thick wires I had to strip off some of the insulation
and run a small jumper wire to a ground.I'll check tomorrow and see which wire I had to ground and post it here.Hope this helps.

 

Thanks that would help a bunch.

 

OK I checked the thing behind the drivers side kick panel and I've got 4 wires comming out of it.2 thick yellow wires and a thick & thin green wires.Make your jumper ground wire connect to the thin green wire and let us know if it helped.

 

Okay let me get this correct: I have to jump the small green wire to a ground somehow. After I do that, do I connect any of the other wires, or just leave them attached to the relay? Thanks you're the spiffiest.

 

Leave all the wires attached to the relay.take a short piece of wire and connect it to a good ground. close to the relay.I drilled a small hole in the metal around the area where the relay is located and put a self tapping screw into it with a wire attached for my ground and then strip some insulation off the thin green wire and connect your ground wire there and rap it in elect. tape and thats all you do. Hope it helps. Bill

 

okay i found a ground and made a jumper. i'll throw it all in tomorrow and hope it all works. Thanks!

 

I made the jumper and connected it, then the wire decided it wanted to get really hot when I cranked the key and it melted the insulation around the quick connects and i'm afeared (cause real men don't get afraid) to try it again because i don't want to mess up the relay. what the h-e-double-hockey-sticks did i do wrong?