i have a new rear im ready to put in it. its a posi disk rear all reworked with 3.42s. i now have a ton of wheel hop. what do i need in oreder to stop the wheel hop.i cant oford to spend to much . i was thinking bushings?

 

you could buy some poly bushings for your rear lower control arms and then box them; or maybe get these http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...41&prmenbr=361

 

get a set of relocation brackets from spohn, brm, or global west.

 

go easy on the gas pedal....or just do what was already suggested. try to better you rear suspension geometry

 

LCA relocation brackets are the cure.... the other things help, but the brackets actually fix the real problem which is poor design aggravated by lowering, whether intentional or just from sagging due to age

 

Get a torque arm.

 

a torque arm does nothing to recorect geomitry, the problem is with the correct angle on teh LCA's, under power the rear end will want to move toward the body, you need to fix the angle of the LCA's so that the geomitry will plant the rear tires.

 

LCA brackets fix my wheel hop problem. A 'good' set of rear shocks will help too.

 

stiff springs also help

 

so i would want to buy relocation brackets and some rlca's and possibly some better shocks as well....thats what i will do then....

thanks for the help guys

 

also try a chassis mount tq arm. I know a guy with a 9" in his and he said the biggest differance he saw at the track was the chassis mount. Cured all his rear setup ailes

 

the cheapest thing you could try as a fix is urethane control arm bushings. Depending on your setup you may need more. if your still using old rubber bushings change them to urethane. if your not willing to wrestle with the bushings get a set of aftermarket control arms.

 

I have installed tubular control arms, LCA relocators, tubular panhard bar, polyurethane bushings and stiffer springs. None of these helped my 60ft one bit, this leads me to believe through my experiences that the problem may lie in the torque arm.

 

or tires. no matter how good the suspension is, it all has to go through the tires.

 

My Spohn SFCs, Lca, and brackets vastly improved my traction problem. (to the point I was almost bogging off the line with my stock 350 tpi and 3.27 gears)

I would say try the brackets first to fix your wheel hop. Changing the angle of the LCA will probably improve your traction.

Spohn's LCA Bracket Page

Tq arm should probably be the last thing to try... it doesn't help making the rearend grab ahold of the chassis harder if the chassis is just gonna flex.

For traction improvements SFCs, brackets, and LCAs will do wonders... then if you still want more get the tq arm then.

I'm still running my same shocks and springs I bought on my car (own'd car for 40k miles... has around 102k miles). I have SFCs, Lcas, brackets, wonderbar, and a spohn solid mounted tq arm.

 

any one have any measurments on these relocation brackets. i have a bunch of steel in my shop and could easily mig some up real quik.lol...its just it seems like a pretty simple bracket for 65 bucks.. o well maybee i should just break down and squeeze out the cash.lol

 

Lakewood makes tractions bars for 82-92 fbodies... but I don't know how good they are, haven't bought them yet

 

How does a traction bar really help us any? I've read other posts on them and it seems they are a lot stiffer, but also cause dragging problems and have broke before.

Jegs price on them is $200 bucks... I think I would just rather have a new set of lcas and brackets.

 

i just got done putting my brackets on, and it cured 99% of my wheel hop. before the brakets, my car would wheel hop so bad that my temp gauge needle would fall off

i think brackets is the first step to cure the problem

 

lower control arms, sub-frame connector and a poly-bushing kit for the rear, is all that u should need.

reasoning: the rubber bushing u have porbably are rotting from the inside out and they suck to begin with. the lower control arms are less likley to torque up like stock which is the main cause of your wheel hop. do not buy a torque arm because the stock arrm is more than enough. do not buy stiffer springs because although it may help with wheel hop, you *** will suffer because u will feel every bump and the ride will be horrible.

 

Poly bushings in the LCAs will make the ride harsher then stiffer springs. But both are a very nice upgrade.

 

I must be in a unique situation here. Ive got everything except SFCs and a torque arm and even with 255/50/16s at ~22psi I have severe wheelspin as evidenced by consistant 2.4 60ft times. I dont even have the low end of TPI anymore and I still spin horribly!

 

Don't hammer the gas out of the hole. Coming out of the hole like a sissy, I can cut a 2.2s 60ft time.

Feather the gas. Anyone can smash the pedal to the floor and hold on, it takes a driver to do the right things to get to the end of the track quicker then that person

 

do you run at more than one track? maybe your starting pad is crappy or perhaps your burnout and dry hops aren't working for you. What kind of tires are you running?

 

wow coming out of the hole like a sissy only put u at a 2.2 for the 60'. my best 60' was a 2.3 and that smashin the gas to the floor. its all about traction and not how sissy you get on it out of the hole.

upgrade ur suspention like im goin to do and ull more then likly see ur times drop down, even look into a set of drag radials or hell even a set of slicks.

i got a set of used M&H dot slicks for $50 and i cant wait to use them.

 

2.2 60'.. yea.. sounds like my 60 ' time when i got my 12.3@126... i cant beleive a $65 bracket is what the problem was the whole time...

 

I used Spohn's lower control arms (non-adjustable) and they TOTALLY stopped my wheel hop - even with my stock springs.

 

It costs me ET babying it out of the hole, my times (and especially traps) are significantly better just letting em spin. Either way, I shouldnt have to baby it with the suspension mods Ive got. laiky, I run 255/50/16s @22psi at the track, and yeah the track kinda sucks to begin with, but I also get horrible traction on the street.

 

what type of tire is it??

 

Usually if it's a street radial you don't decrease the pressure in them.... or at least that's what I thought... I thought I read somewhere to fill up the fronts a little firmer than usuall to help transfer weight and leave the rears in the normal range.

 

I went from a 2.68 60' down to a 2.19 60' in a matter of 3 runs on stock sized 215/65/15 tires. Traction just wasn't there to launch at 3,000 and just flooring it when the light turned. Launched at 2600 and rolled into the throttle quickly instead of just slamming my foot down. A little throttle control can help

 

Wasn't there a recall out on these? I seem to remember some kind of "sticky" at the top of the general tech forum about this...

[edit] Yep, I was right. They broke on bad84z. Here's the story, and Lakewood's answer to him: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=150750

Here he took pics of the replacement brackets: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=152799

I can't find the sticky that was put up, though... guess I'm searching for the wrong things?

 

i pulled a 2.13 60' on bone stock rear suspension and torque arm and street tires.

 

I dont really have any wheel hop, but I have new springs and good shocks. I run in the 2.2 60 ft range. That is if I ease into the throttle so I dont spin to much. If I dont ease the clutch out and be easy on the throttle I just spin and end up w/ 2.3-2.4 60 fts. I always run better times if I ease into it also. I talked to a guy at the track in a GTA, and he said that he changed to a poly torque arm mount, but the rest of his suspension was stock and he went from 2.2-2.3 60 fts to 2.0-2.1 60 fts on street tires. I should be getting a set of drag radials this weekend and the torque arm mount soon so I will see how that effects my 60 fts. I think the tires will help a lot.

Ben

 

Ive been in a car (4th gen) with a poly torque arm mount and the thing made some terrible vibrations, Ive heard a lot about those mounts transmitting more noise into the interior. Just something to look out for...

 

I think you are thinking of transmission mount, and I already have one of those. I didnt necesarrily notice a lot of extra vibration in mine, but I did notice a lot firmer feeling to the shifts. The car vibrates like a mother already because of my exhaust so I am not to worried. lol. I do plan on trying to modify my exhaust a bit so maybe it doesnt resonate like it does in the low rpms. The car isnt really to loud inside except between something like 1500 and 1800 it resonates and that sucks.

Ben