lxfallenxl

Hello i have a 1989 formula firebird 305 v8 automatic that im having an issue with. I drove to the next town over, on my way back it stalled 7 times, started back up everytime. On the 8th time it completely died. I have power to my lights and everything still just no cranking and starting. Most the time it was stalling was when i started to slow down for a stop it would shut off. Got it pushed home. Had my battery and starter checked, battery was bad, and starter solenoid was bad. changed both and still nothing. The security light dont come on (just when you first turn the key like usual it turns on, but right back off) I have not a clue where to go from here. Any help would be appreciated.

Schurkey

Did you install the CORRECT solenoid on the starter?

Did you wire it properly?

Is the starter itself defective?

Is the new battery any good? Properly charged?

Are the battery cables still usable? How do you know? Were they tested?




Rule of thumb, usually applicable: If the solenoid doesn't click when you turn the key to "Crank", it's wiring from battery to ignition switch to solenoid; or the ground side. If the solenoid clicks but the starter motor doesn't crank, it's the solenoid, or the starter, or the engine is locked-up.

It's VERY EASY to buy defective crap from China.

lxfallenxl

Pretty sure it was the right solenoid I had autozone search up the right one for me to buy, but it did end up having one less post in it then my original, batteries fine, if it was anything to do with the starter what would explain it stalling randomly while I was driving and starting back up just fine ?

Schurkey

The original solenoid had a post with no wires on it? Or the new solenoid doesn't have the wires in the correct place?


How do you know the battery is fine? How about battery cables?

If it started up just fine, why did you need a battery and a starter solenoid?

Does the solenoid click?

Did you buy Chinese parts?

lxfallenxl

my father was actually the one that put the solenoid on, and wasnt sure about the posts but once it was off there was an extra post that the new solenoid does not have, and the solenoid does not click, no sounds at all, battery has been tested and seems good, battery cables look fine havent taken a volt meter to it as far as i know of, and it WAS starting fine, it ran great, then out of no where one day was when it started stalling then just died and nothing happened when you turned the key thats when i got the solenoid and battery tested and got new ones. and they are not chinese parts

Poseidon

Pull your kick panel off drivers side and check your crank relay mine went bad the other day just an idea with out it car had no power to starter you can just jump it to see if it changes anything bridge both end connectors and try to crank the car.

lxfallenxl

where exactly is the crank relay? i already have the panels off i was looking through the wires the other day lol

Poseidon

Behind the kick panel that has the hood release

lxfallenxl

alright ill check it out

Poseidon

Looks just like the fuel pump relay

Wife'sCar

iTrader: (1)

Just out of curiosity, because I have had this happen... are you sure it has gas and that the sending unit is functioning properly to make the gauge read right?........

bigal55

iTrader: (1)

He has a no crank condition which would indicate the starter relay as Poseidon has suggested. The solenoid with the extra post sounds like an older (pre electronic ignition) type that used that extra post to provide power back to the points type distributor through a ballast resistor. The older points type distributors had two wires to power the points, a direct 12 volts when in start to aid in starting and when in run, the power was applied from the second post on the solenoid through a ballast resistor and then to the points. This aided in prolonging the life of the points by dropping the voltage to around 6 to 8 volts which created less arching as the points opened and closed.

Wife'sCar

iTrader: (1)

Yes. But before he started messing with all the things he replaced when it was stalling on him it was turning over everytime. That sounds like either put of gas or pump dying. I'm talking about the original issue.

lxfallenxl

as far as i know of the gauge reads right. I know the gas was low but not empty, even in an instance that it was just about completely out, it should still do something when i turn the key right

bigal55

iTrader: (1)

Put the ignition in the on or run position. Take a long piece of wire of at least 16 ga. Strip one end and wrap it around the small post on the solenoid. Strip the other end and press it to the positive battery terminal. Does the car crank and start? If so, you have a problem with the start circuit. This could be a number of things including your ignition switch, wiring from the switch to your neutral safety switch or from there to the starter relay or from there to the solenoid. Get a meter (vom) and check voltages from the solenoid back through the circuit until you find where you are losing voltage.

Wife'sCar

iTrader: (1)

Yes now you need to fix the no crank issue but I was running on 2 days no sleep and only thinking about the original issue and never specified. Once you get crank again fill it up, if it sputter when low again I'd guess the line in the tank from pump out has cracked.