TomP

Well, my paint gun came!! It's the Devilbiss Finishline II, HVLP, gravity feed gun. (Thanks ATOMonkey & Deadbird for your help in choosing it!) Can't wait to use the thing. I expected a little more in the way of instructions, though... it looks more like instructions for an air tool, like a ratchet- the exploded diagram, how to lube, and that's it. I would've liked to see more pictures, especially of cleaning the gun, but I guess that's why I bought the Paint & Body Handbook from Summit Racing!

Also, I don't like the funky plastic handle; I would've liked an aluminum one, but that's alright. Er- cough, I mean, I love the specially engineered comfort-grip composite handle for it's ability to reduce operator fatigue. (sigh)

Funny, the same day I ordered the gun, I came home, and my latest copy of Auto Restorer Magazine ( http://magazinevalues.com/detail.cfm?id=40824 for those interested) had an article- how to pick and clean a paint gun. I panicked; what if it told me to buy a completely different gun? Well, haha, guess what, the guy talked about the Devilbiss Finishline HVLP gravity feed gun! He said he was a painter for years, just bought the gun, and was happy with it. Whew! I think I'll try spraying my dad's car, the paint is coming off the roof by the windshield- it'd be a good test. (Plus if I screw it up, it certainly can't get any worse! haha)

For anyone curious, that didn't see my original message, find info about the guns here: http://www.devilbiss.com/Finshline.html

crazynights

iTrader: (3)

Take some pics of some finished products. I have some panels that need to be painted
Just kidding bout that. Have fun and keep us posted how it goes.

Diabolical

how much was that? my brothers camaro could definately use a new paint job, and it would be cool to try it out. i didn't really read much, but is that all you need? i mean assuming that all body work is done, and the car is all prepped, and obviously you have paint.

TomP

LOL, crazynights! Yep, I'll get pics up. I might even show "how to clean a paint gun" or something corny like that.

Diabolical, you can get it for $169 from http://www.eastwoodcompany.com . Or you can be smart and savvy and impress people like me by getting one from here: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/DEV-FLG635316.html And yeah, as long as your air compressor can meet the 11.4 cfm @ 23 PSI air requirement, you can power the gun. The booklet that came with the gun said that a 3 HP air compressor would work- but I think it depends on the size of the compressor's tank.

You can see the rest of the guns here: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MAN20.html You can save $30 by going with the non-hvlp finishline gun, but like ATOMonkey told me, you'll waste more than that because of the increased overspray of a non-hvlp gun- less paint goes on the car. Plus with less overspray, there's less mess, and I betchya it'll be easier on our lungs.

Oh past that, they "highly recommend" a good air filter/dryer for the air line so no oil or water gets into the paint, which would put drops all over your paint job. There's other little crap, too, like paint strainers, a gun stand, PVC air hose (supposedly "cleaner" than a rubber hose, and made mainly for painting), etc. Eastwood sells all these, you might find them cheaper on the 'net.

stuart69427

Hey Tom, whats up?

I've been out of the loop for a couple weeks (been really busy) so i assume that if you got a paint gun, that means your new fenders are on and hopefully you got to the quarters finally?

I just started doing mild body work last night, got most of my T/A Wrap around sanded (once you get the paint off, its actually it great shape under that ) After that I will prepare the decklid and work my way towards the fron of the car. I'll be getting a total of 8 spots of rust , shaving the antena and side moldings, re-aligning the GFX (I ran over my ramps )

But I got started doing my car before my car looks like yours did (or might still).

Got any tips about removing the moldings?

TomP

LOL, nope, the car is unchanged (save for a new B&M shifter cable)! I wish I was that far ahead! I definately want to get the quarter panel welded on soon; painting might wait until next spring. (Might... if I can wait that long!)

Which moldings?

stuart69427

the moldings that run alon the door (option # B84)

Here:

TomP

Yep, I've got a tip for those.

Get some fishing line, and some gloves. You'll use the fishing line like dental floss, so use gloves so you don't cut your hands up. Pull the fishing line tight, and rest it against the surface of the door, right at the leftmost (or rightmost) edge of the molding. The fishing line should be tight enough so it only touches the curve of the car body where the molding is. Now, as you pull the fishing line against the car, use an up/down motion, and cut into the molding tape. This will separate the molding from the car... almost like using a saw (or dental floss), without hurting the molding or the car's paint.

To remove any residue, use an aerosol paint prep can. I usually buy Marhyde's "Total Prep", sold at Strauss Auto, you can find it at any store that sells Bondo-brand filler. Other auto parts stores sell different brands, but they're basically all the same- mineral spirits. You could also use lacquer thinner, I guess. But the stuff "melts" the adhesive away... you'd spray it on, then let it sit for a bit, then use either your fingernails or a towel to 'scrub' the adhesive away.

Hope that helps; hope i described it well enough. Eastwoodcompany.com sells an aerosol prep, and they also sell a special molding/emblem removal tool. It's a plastic scraper (with no blade, just a sharp plastic edge), and it might do a better job of removing the adhesive, but fishing line is usually in the garage or the basement.

stuart69427

Wow, thanks Tom!

I'll do that! I am working on my decklid now (Man I have never down somthing so carefull as removing that wraparound, cuase I didn't want to buy a third hatch!!!)

There was a "Fuel Injection" decal on the decklid that simply pulled right off and wasn't that hard to get the adhesive off before I sanded it.

I also have to remove a rusted bolt (driv side bolt for the wrap around rusted shut to the base of the spoiler, but the spoiler was only attached to the bolt with like an inch of rubber so i just cut that cuase I would have had to fix it anywayz, Not sure how to tackle that yet.

I put two layers of primer down until I know I can finish it properly (didn't want it to rust on me) I start college monday and am busy this weekend so I don't know if I will be able to work on it some more for a while.

Man does the car look funny with out a spoiler, kind of different, I quess...

TomP

Hey yeah, I know what you mean.. I have a picture of the car before it went to Maaco, without the spoiler (they painted it separately), and it looks ... odd. Almost like the back looks longer. Careful dude, did you use a primer or a primer/sealer? Regular primer isn't waterproof; don't leave that car in the rain!! You've seen my rust pictures...

stuart69427

uhh ohh... its regular primer

So i should put primer/sealer on ????

TomP

If you can find it, yeah! Just make sure it's compatible with the primer you already sprayed, and the paint you'll eventually use. Like, you can spray enamel over lacquer, but you can't spray lacquer over enamel. Or, just keep it out of the rain!

stuart69427

what about using rattle can paint over the primer? How good is that as water protection? I can't seem to find primer/sealer...

I won't be able to afford to paint this till the summer (I know its still summer, I mean the next one )

That fishline idea works great! You weren't kidding about those gloves quess i should have listened you get the picture

TomP

I assume it would work; only bummer is that you'll need to sand it (either sand it off, or scuff-sand it) when you go to paint the car. Recently, I found a primer/sealer in a spray can, by DupliColor, at Strauss Auto.. didn't use it because I used Plastikote (lacquer) primer on the car I was working on. Oh that car (remember the "deer ran into my friend's car's doors!" message?) is finally done, thank goodness... did a rush job of blending the new paint into the old, and you can see a line, but hey, screw it, he's happy with it, and I'm happy it's done.

stuart69427

Well I put rattle can paint on my car (it was overcast, I wanted protection, I have no carport/garage and no car cover)

Well it looks ugly, something about primer gray that looks good, i don't know, but the primer looked better...

Where can I get some primer/sealer from? In a rattle can or otherwise? What type do you recomend?

TomP

I'm actually not too sure, I never used the stuff... back then, I just kept the car in the garage, couldn't drive it if it was rainy out- what a pain, I had to keep getting rides! The only stuff I saw recently was that Duplicolor stuff I mentioned in the last message... maybe you could post a new message asking about it? What color did you pick?

camaro6spd

I work at an autopbody shot and the guns we use there are SATA...jet 90s IIRC, they are VERY NICE GUNS.....i am thinking about getting one or their new Digital 2 ones.....350 ebay....450 retail...but i will be getting into this for a living so what the hell gotta do this right. Plus i know for a fact that they spray nice....

extreme3rdgens

The finishline is a nice gun for a good price entry level gun. I used one for a short time now it is my primer gun. I do some custom painting for a living and also use Sata guns for most of my work. I have the Sata Jet 90 Limited edition and the Sata Jet 2000 Limited edition for color and clear. They are the best guns on the market but price between 400-500 each. I have a few guns and probably have about 5,000 in guns along with my partners at the shop. Good choice for a do it yourself gun. You will like it, yes the handle does work even if it looks cheap.
Extreme

Robz84Monte

yeah duplicolor makes a primer sealer haven't tried it yet though.
after i get something primed i just put a coat of rattle-can clear coat on it. it works great, keeps water out, and doesn't put yet another color on your car!

85SportCoupeto89RS

Sup TomP, stuart69427
Its been a while since I have been around. I hurt my knee at work a month ago and had "surgery" two weeks back. I had a completely torn acl, and interior crutica ligament" they had to take 65mm of my hamstring and drill a hole in my tibua and fibua to make a new one" and had tears on my minisicus ligaments"on each side of the knee". Hurts like hell and I cant drive my SC and I want too sooooo bad. I'm glad you got a good paint gun and I cant wait to see the results of your work.Ah the memories of paint my SC so long ago I need another to do

TomP

Thanks for the info, Kevin!! Never got to try the gun, never got to weld on the back half of a Firebird that's in the backyard, never got to do anything: College started back up. '85, that sucks about the surgery, how long before you're allowed to move again?

85SportCoupeto89RS

I see your still working on the firebird.It suks big time I cant put any weight on it for another 4 weeks, and I cant drive my baby. Right now Im doing strecthing physical therapy to get my knee working right and bending good again. Maybe in two months I should be up and moving around good, Hopefully.