Preserve our underbodies
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Preserve our underbodies
Anyone know the very best was to prevent our undercarriage from rotting away? I heard there is some kind of undercarriage spray to coat our frame and floor boards??
#2
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
There are various coatings on the market you can use. You can have your car professionally rust proofed at a shop, you can have spray on bedliner used, or there are various home applications you can use, such as the ones I listed above, or you could try POR-15. I have personally used POR, and I don't recommend it. It was formulated for use on boats and works fantastic when you can get it to adhere, but it doesn't stick very well on bare clean metal and for it to work it has to be applied to bare metal.
Bedliner and rustproofing applications can be applied over your factory paint. Something else to think about.
Bedliner and rustproofing applications can be applied over your factory paint. Something else to think about.
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
I used this to refresh some of the Dealer Installed Undercoating when my car was up on the lift while my car was being repainted.It looks like the same pattern finish as the dealers.For a car that's been in the North East all it's life surprisingly their is no rust whatsoever on the underbelly of this car.
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
I just striped my entire undercarraige to bare metal.
then treated it with POR Marine Clean, then POR Metal Ready, then POR 15, POR Top Coat, and then Body color Acrylic Urathane Paint, and last, Urathane clear coat.
then treated it with POR Marine Clean, then POR Metal Ready, then POR 15, POR Top Coat, and then Body color Acrylic Urathane Paint, and last, Urathane clear coat.
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
Awesome advice, My car has been in the south east its entire life with minimal snow and no undercarriage rust,I just moved back home to Buffalo NY, Im a tow truck driver at a local scrap yard and I have been scraping ALOT of good running cars that simply will not pass safety inspections because there floorboards and frames are so rotted out. I will get an undercoating asap. Did you also coat your suspension and axle? I don't really want to make it difficult to remove parts.
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
I personally cannot recommend POR-15 or any similar products. The floor pan of my 88 was coated in it when I bought it. Most of it came off with the power washer. The rest with the wire brush I used to follow it. And there was still rust under it.
I cannot recommend rubberized undercoat, either. Both of my cars have had their factory applied coat coming off in critical areas.
What I can recommend is to make sure all of the body seams have the appropriate amount of seam sealer and then remove as much as you can from underneath. Follow that up with a coat of truck bedliner (get a gallon kit of DupliColor Bed Armor for $100) after a thorough cleaning under there. If you have enough left over, remove the interior and coat that part of the floor pan as well, front to back (especially if you have a t-top).
Be aware that there are a couple of spots you WILL need to address being in the salt belt... There are pinholes in the front of each rocker panel from the factory, behind the fender, and a couple more a couple inches back from the lower fender mount to the inboard side of the lower pinch weld. These 2 areas appear to cause a lot of salty water entry behind the kick panels, which leaves a BIG hole after a while (been there). Also make sure the cowl is sealed up nice at the bottom where everything comes together. And also make sure you clean VERY well in the wheel wells (remove front wheel well plastic pieces and gas filler shield) and rear LCA body mounts every spring (or whenever they ever stop using the salt) and clean thoroughly because salt and dirt tend to collect in there and cause issues.
I cannot recommend rubberized undercoat, either. Both of my cars have had their factory applied coat coming off in critical areas.
What I can recommend is to make sure all of the body seams have the appropriate amount of seam sealer and then remove as much as you can from underneath. Follow that up with a coat of truck bedliner (get a gallon kit of DupliColor Bed Armor for $100) after a thorough cleaning under there. If you have enough left over, remove the interior and coat that part of the floor pan as well, front to back (especially if you have a t-top).
Be aware that there are a couple of spots you WILL need to address being in the salt belt... There are pinholes in the front of each rocker panel from the factory, behind the fender, and a couple more a couple inches back from the lower fender mount to the inboard side of the lower pinch weld. These 2 areas appear to cause a lot of salty water entry behind the kick panels, which leaves a BIG hole after a while (been there). Also make sure the cowl is sealed up nice at the bottom where everything comes together. And also make sure you clean VERY well in the wheel wells (remove front wheel well plastic pieces and gas filler shield) and rear LCA body mounts every spring (or whenever they ever stop using the salt) and clean thoroughly because salt and dirt tend to collect in there and cause issues.
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
I used rust seal. works excellent and comes in multiple colors. (paint is still wet in the photo)
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
I have been using Por 15 for 20 years.
It only works when the surface has been preped properly.
I have used it on rock crawler jeeps to street cars. If done properly it holds up quite well.
It only works when the surface has been preped properly.
I have used it on rock crawler jeeps to street cars. If done properly it holds up quite well.
I personally cannot recommend POR-15 or any similar products. The floor pan of my 88 was coated in it when I bought it. Most of it came off with the power washer. The rest with the wire brush I used to follow it. And there was still rust under it.
I cannot recommend rubberized undercoat, either. Both of my cars have had their factory applied coat coming off in critical areas.
What I can recommend is to make sure all of the body seams have the appropriate amount of seam sealer and then remove as much as you can from underneath. Follow that up with a coat of truck bedliner (get a gallon kit of DupliColor Bed Armor for $100) after a thorough cleaning under there. If you have enough left over, remove the interior and coat that part of the floor pan as well, front to back (especially if you have a t-top).
Be aware that there are a couple of spots you WILL need to address being in the salt belt... There are pinholes in the front of each rocker panel from the factory, behind the fender, and a couple more a couple inches back from the lower fender mount to the inboard side of the lower pinch weld. These 2 areas appear to cause a lot of salty water entry behind the kick panels, which leaves a BIG hole after a while (been there). Also make sure the cowl is sealed up nice at the bottom where everything comes together. And also make sure you clean VERY well in the wheel wells (remove front wheel well plastic pieces and gas filler shield) and rear LCA body mounts every spring (or whenever they ever stop using the salt) and clean thoroughly because salt and dirt tend to collect in there and cause issues.
I cannot recommend rubberized undercoat, either. Both of my cars have had their factory applied coat coming off in critical areas.
What I can recommend is to make sure all of the body seams have the appropriate amount of seam sealer and then remove as much as you can from underneath. Follow that up with a coat of truck bedliner (get a gallon kit of DupliColor Bed Armor for $100) after a thorough cleaning under there. If you have enough left over, remove the interior and coat that part of the floor pan as well, front to back (especially if you have a t-top).
Be aware that there are a couple of spots you WILL need to address being in the salt belt... There are pinholes in the front of each rocker panel from the factory, behind the fender, and a couple more a couple inches back from the lower fender mount to the inboard side of the lower pinch weld. These 2 areas appear to cause a lot of salty water entry behind the kick panels, which leaves a BIG hole after a while (been there). Also make sure the cowl is sealed up nice at the bottom where everything comes together. And also make sure you clean VERY well in the wheel wells (remove front wheel well plastic pieces and gas filler shield) and rear LCA body mounts every spring (or whenever they ever stop using the salt) and clean thoroughly because salt and dirt tend to collect in there and cause issues.
#9
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
I second that.. POR15 is awesome if you degrease the hell out of everything (I degreased TWICE with a pressure washer and marine clean.. The underbody was reflective that's how clean it was lol. The POR15 metal ready sprays on and then the POR15 actual paint goes on pretty thick, and it stays. So far it's been about 3 years for me and it's still just like the day I did it.
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
If you are going to go with POR-15, you obviously have to get the surface very clean and prepped. Do people usually grind off all of the factory undercoating where it is still solid to re-cover?
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
That is what I was thinking. Its seems there are many options out there for undercoating, next step is deciding what I will use. I will take everyone's advice into consideration. Did anyone remove any parts under the car to get any vital areas?
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
, you can have spray on bedliner used, or there are various home applications you can use, such as the ones I listed above, or you could try POR-15. I have personally used POR, and I don't recommend it. It was formulated for use on boats and works fantastic when you can get it to adhere, but it doesn't stick very well on bare clean metal and for it to work it has to be applied to bare metal..
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
Im taking it back in for a touch up and to put my louvers and new hood with hood bolts on but when i bring it in i wanted to inquire about coating the under carriage for protection.
I've personally wire wheeled my whole K1500 1/2 Ton chassis then gave it 7 coats of primer 5 coats of paint within the span of 3 days.
And it still upholds as the day i sprayed it, even after power washing it and having a little fun country side.
If anyone else has any pictures they can add in or any other solvents in combination for the best protection please add and chime in!
Suggestions of professional work to complete the job would be nice but if its possible to get it done JUST as well but with a little elbow grease and invested time im all for it, I mean who doesn't like saving money?!
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
I took mine to bare metal, or rusty metal.
Por 15 loves rusty metal or etched metal. Something with texture.
Por 15 hates loose scale, undercoating or other paints or finishes. It also hates oils. Use a wax and grease remover before applying, like you should with any paint.
Por 15 loves rusty metal or etched metal. Something with texture.
Por 15 hates loose scale, undercoating or other paints or finishes. It also hates oils. Use a wax and grease remover before applying, like you should with any paint.
#17
Re: Preserve our underbodies
I don't know why everyone is so crazy about por-15. Its a rebranded and remarketed overpriced epoxy primer. As for undercoating floors, I'd use epoxy primer (same thing as por, just not overpriced), truck bedliner, and possibly some rubberized undercoat.
And kind-of off topic, but you shouldn't really paint over rust unless you cannot get it clean with anything (for some reason). It'll come back. I've once been told "Rust never sleeps"
And kind-of off topic, but you shouldn't really paint over rust unless you cannot get it clean with anything (for some reason). It'll come back. I've once been told "Rust never sleeps"
#18
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
Folks in the northeast have been known to simply brush the underside with used motor oil before each salt season.
Keep the oil off the rubber bits as much as you can. If you want to put some sort of preservative on the rubbers, silicone spray is cheap and effective.
This method is not stylish from a resto-mod perspective, but it works, and nobody but you will know. It will even mitigate some of the "squeak issues" that like to develop under there.
Similarly, there is the "WAXOYL" method.
If you are trying to (re)build the "perfect car," none of these methods may be acceptable. But, if you are building a driver, a car that you are going to take out and play in traffic, and get beat up in parking lots, and cut the occasional donut in a gravel parking lot and such, all this business of stripping to the bare metal, and doing laborious prep-work may be quite the waste of time.
Keep the oil off the rubber bits as much as you can. If you want to put some sort of preservative on the rubbers, silicone spray is cheap and effective.
This method is not stylish from a resto-mod perspective, but it works, and nobody but you will know. It will even mitigate some of the "squeak issues" that like to develop under there.
Similarly, there is the "WAXOYL" method.
http://home.metroweb.co.za/~pdoug/tips_and_recipes.htm
Application:
Buy any cheap engine spray gun at your local auto or tool store that carries air tools. You can also use a garden insecticide sprayer, although it will really make you tired. Rent or borrow an air compressor. If possible elevate your car so that you can get at the underside. (Remember to chock both front and rear wheels as you are going to work underneath the car.) First wash your truck's chassis, both inside and out, to get rid of all the mud, oil etc. Spray the solution onto the underside of the chassis and into every little hole, crack and crevice. Make sure you push the tip into the chassis to spray the inside of the chassis. Let the excess drip off. You will find that the solution will blend into all cracks and chips and if the chassis is scratched it will flow, covering the scratch. If there is existing rust the solution will be soaked up by the rust and thereby creating an oxygen free coating stopping the further rusting/corroding of the surface.
Repeat the above once a year if you live in an area where the roads are sprayed with salt. Once every two to three years if staying inland where it is dry and salt free.
The above information was received from the LRO list where various people contributed their own recipe. Most of the recipes was essentially the same varying only on which oil to use and discussing the pro's and con's of Mineral spirits/paraffin/ Kerosene/ lamp oil vs. Diesel etc.
WAXOYL
Take a ½ kilogram of paraffin wax or candle making wax and grind it up with a cheese grater. Soak it in 2 liters of mineral spirits/ Paraffin/ Kerosene/ lamp oil/ Diesel until all of the wax is dissolved. It might take a couple of weeks. Stirring will cause most of the wax to dissolve, but soaking should take care of the rest, heating the mixture in hot water (no open flames) will add in the quick dissolving of the wax. Generally try to dissolve as much wax as the mineral spirits/ kerosene/ paraffin/lamp oil/ Diesel will hold. Pour one liter of mineral oil/ non-detergent motor oil into the dissolved mixture. If the mixture is too thick for spraying you can thin it further with more mineral spirits until it is of a spray-able consistency.Application:
Buy any cheap engine spray gun at your local auto or tool store that carries air tools. You can also use a garden insecticide sprayer, although it will really make you tired. Rent or borrow an air compressor. If possible elevate your car so that you can get at the underside. (Remember to chock both front and rear wheels as you are going to work underneath the car.) First wash your truck's chassis, both inside and out, to get rid of all the mud, oil etc. Spray the solution onto the underside of the chassis and into every little hole, crack and crevice. Make sure you push the tip into the chassis to spray the inside of the chassis. Let the excess drip off. You will find that the solution will blend into all cracks and chips and if the chassis is scratched it will flow, covering the scratch. If there is existing rust the solution will be soaked up by the rust and thereby creating an oxygen free coating stopping the further rusting/corroding of the surface.
Repeat the above once a year if you live in an area where the roads are sprayed with salt. Once every two to three years if staying inland where it is dry and salt free.
The above information was received from the LRO list where various people contributed their own recipe. Most of the recipes was essentially the same varying only on which oil to use and discussing the pro's and con's of Mineral spirits/paraffin/ Kerosene/ lamp oil vs. Diesel etc.
#19
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
My own third-gen is by no means a "perfect" car, and I don't think I'm going to spend the money or the time to ever make it such a car. I'll still enjoy the heck out of it though.
I've been hitting the "suspect areas" with Break-Free aerosol as the opportunities present. This is the same stuff I use to lubricate my rifles. Its not especially cheap, and it doesn't have the negative association that some folks attach to "used motor oil." I like the pressurized can, and the nozzle to get just the right amount to just the right place.
I've been hitting the "suspect areas" with Break-Free aerosol as the opportunities present. This is the same stuff I use to lubricate my rifles. Its not especially cheap, and it doesn't have the negative association that some folks attach to "used motor oil." I like the pressurized can, and the nozzle to get just the right amount to just the right place.
#20
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
I don't know why everyone is so crazy about por-15. Its a rebranded and remarketed overpriced epoxy primer. As for undercoating floors, I'd use epoxy primer (same thing as por, just not overpriced), truck bedliner, and possibly some rubberized undercoat.
And kind-of off topic, but you shouldn't really paint over rust unless you cannot get it clean with anything (for some reason). It'll come back. I've once been told "Rust never sleeps"
And kind-of off topic, but you shouldn't really paint over rust unless you cannot get it clean with anything (for some reason). It'll come back. I've once been told "Rust never sleeps"
I have used a lot of Epoxy primers and POR 15. They are not the same.
In fact, The makers of POR 15 even say it is a Polyurethane.
#22
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
If the car isn't going to be a winter driven vehicle, use whatever you want. If it's not salty, it's not going to rust.
If you are going to winter drive it, use whatever you want, because no matter what you do, the rust will still get to it from the inside out.
If you are going to winter drive it, use whatever you want, because no matter what you do, the rust will still get to it from the inside out.
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
^ Its amazing how much moisture can seep through a concrete garage floor if you live in a humid area though.
#24
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
I would have to disagree with this statement, Last month I towed a 80 year old womens 1993 Cavalier, her daughter made her junk it because she was too old to drive. She bought it brand new garage kept and never drove it in the snow... it had 17k and looked like it came off the show room floor ( body and interior) when I secured it to my bed with my J chains the rear lower control arms snapped off and the underside looked just as rusty as most other snow driven cars I have seen.
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
I haven't done this in my car yet, but my dad and I took a grinder and pad to the underside of his truck and then coated it about four times with Rustoleum Hammer Paint about three years ago, We've yet to see any rust, even with the overspray of chemical here in Va
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
or there are various home applications you can use, such as the ones I listed above, or you could try POR-15. I have personally used POR, and I don't recommend it. It was formulated for use on boats and works fantastic when you can get it to adhere, but it doesn't stick very well on bare clean metal and for it to work it has to be applied to bare metal.
#29
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
He's nuts. You don't have to get down to bare metal, in fact the company recommends that you DON'T. Another kid who goes through life not reading directions.
Last edited by MintWS6FORMULA; 07-27-2013 at 01:27 AM.
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Re: Preserve our underbodies
http://www.por15.com/Product-Information_ep_60.html
As mentioned, I did a steel trailer, use it on salty roads in the winter, and powerwash the salt off the underside when I get home. No peeling at all!
Last edited by MintWS6FORMULA; 07-27-2013 at 01:30 AM.
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