92 camaro rs v8 overheating
02-22-2016, 07:10 PM
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92 camaro rs v8 overheating
Can someone tell me how to test if my radiator fan is working? Just had a radiator flush done 12 days ago, so fluids were fine, they said thermostat was fine cuz it tested ok after the flush...but today it overheated. Trying to narrow it down to the temp control switch, fan or whatever else 
92 rs v8 5.0
Any ideas would be appreciated
92 rs v8 5.0
Any ideas would be appreciated
02-22-2016, 07:46 PM
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Re: 92 camaro rs v8 overheating
Define "overheated". An often abused word, to the point of having no meaning.
02-22-2016, 08:09 PM
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Re: 92 camaro rs v8 overheating
Thnx sofakingdom
02-22-2016, 08:47 PM
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Re: 92 camaro rs v8 overheating
If it's not overheating while driving down the road means everything is flowing. It sounds like the fan or fan switch. To check the fan just put power to the fan itself. If it comes on its the switch. Actually if you ground the switch and the fan comes on then it's the switch. Usually it's the switch that goes bad.
02-22-2016, 08:55 PM
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Re: 92 camaro rs v8 overheating
If it's not overheating while driving down the road means everything is flowing. It sounds like the fan or fan switch. To check the fan just put power to the fan itself. If it comes on its the switch. Actually if you ground the switch and the fan comes on then it's the switch. Usually it's the switch that goes bad.
02-22-2016, 09:02 PM
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Re: 92 camaro rs v8 overheating
Steaming & spewing is NOT overheating.
That means only ONE thing:
You need a radiator cap.
Go buy a new one. NOT the kind with the lever on top to release it; just a normal, stock, replacement, ordinary, radiator cap.
But before you put it on, refill you cooling system with about a 60/40 mix of distilled water (DISTILLED: not "reverse osmosis filtered", not "tap", not "it's good enough to drink", not ANYTHING ELSE but DISTILLED) and pure (NOT "pre-mixed") anti-freeze. A good rule of thumb is, after the ENTIRE system has been drained dry from the radiator drain and both sides of the block drain, is 2 gallons of green juice, then the rest with DISTILLED water. Remember, DISTILLED. Don't ever put anything in your radiator besides DISTILLED water and pure green juice.
After that, come back and we'll talk about fan. I'm guessing you won't be back though, because the other will make your cooling system work right.
Pop quiz: what kind of water are you going to use?
That means only ONE thing:
You need a radiator cap.
Go buy a new one. NOT the kind with the lever on top to release it; just a normal, stock, replacement, ordinary, radiator cap.
But before you put it on, refill you cooling system with about a 60/40 mix of distilled water (DISTILLED: not "reverse osmosis filtered", not "tap", not "it's good enough to drink", not ANYTHING ELSE but DISTILLED) and pure (NOT "pre-mixed") anti-freeze. A good rule of thumb is, after the ENTIRE system has been drained dry from the radiator drain and both sides of the block drain, is 2 gallons of green juice, then the rest with DISTILLED water. Remember, DISTILLED. Don't ever put anything in your radiator besides DISTILLED water and pure green juice.
After that, come back and we'll talk about fan. I'm guessing you won't be back though, because the other will make your cooling system work right.
Pop quiz: what kind of water are you going to use?
02-22-2016, 09:25 PM
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Re: 92 camaro rs v8 overheating
Steaming & spewing is NOT overheating.
That means only ONE thing:
You need a radiator cap.
Go buy a new one. NOT the kind with the lever on top to release it; just a normal, stock, replacement, ordinary, radiator cap.
But before you put it on, refill you cooling system with about a 60/40 mix of distilled water (DISTILLED: not "reverse osmosis filtered", not "tap", not "it's good enough to drink", not ANYTHING ELSE but DISTILLED) and pure (NOT "pre-mixed") anti-freeze. A good rule of thumb is, after the ENTIRE system has been drained dry from the radiator drain and both sides of the block drain, is 2 gallons of green juice, then the rest with DISTILLED water. Remember, DISTILLED. Don't ever put anything in your radiator besides DISTILLED water and pure green juice.
After that, come back and we'll talk about fan. I'm guessing you won't be back though, because the other will make your cooling system work right.
Pop quiz: what kind of water are you going to use?
That means only ONE thing:
You need a radiator cap.
Go buy a new one. NOT the kind with the lever on top to release it; just a normal, stock, replacement, ordinary, radiator cap.
But before you put it on, refill you cooling system with about a 60/40 mix of distilled water (DISTILLED: not "reverse osmosis filtered", not "tap", not "it's good enough to drink", not ANYTHING ELSE but DISTILLED) and pure (NOT "pre-mixed") anti-freeze. A good rule of thumb is, after the ENTIRE system has been drained dry from the radiator drain and both sides of the block drain, is 2 gallons of green juice, then the rest with DISTILLED water. Remember, DISTILLED. Don't ever put anything in your radiator besides DISTILLED water and pure green juice.
After that, come back and we'll talk about fan. I'm guessing you won't be back though, because the other will make your cooling system work right.
Pop quiz: what kind of water are you going to use?
I will try the new rad cap, I will make sure to do 60/40 coolant/DISTILLED water. Do I put the mixture to the full line in the overflow? Or in the rad itself...and, please tell me I won't have to "burp" it to get any air bubbles out. (had to do that when I changed out the thermostat and it was a pita)
Thanks again peeps, I am a single mom just trying to avoid paying a "mobile mechanic" ...
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02-23-2016, 12:45 AM
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Re: 92 camaro rs v8 overheating
I'm really not sure why he's saying distilled water... But i assume fill the whole system. Means drain it all and start filling the rad up.
Testing the fan switch would be easy and will check you fan at the same time. The switch is on the passenger side, towards the back of the head, above the exhaust manifold. Has 1 wire run to it. I think it's green or white, not sure. Now once you have that wire pulled of the switch start the car and put that wire on the neg side of the bat. If the fan comes in the switch is bad. If the fan doesn't come on could be your fan. Or relay or break in the wiring harness.
Now for the fan, there's a 2 wire plug that goes to your fan. Find the red one and put power to it. If the fan comes on then it's a relay or something crazy. At that point I would (and have) put the fan on a toggle switch so I can just turn the fan on and off when I want.
Testing the fan switch would be easy and will check you fan at the same time. The switch is on the passenger side, towards the back of the head, above the exhaust manifold. Has 1 wire run to it. I think it's green or white, not sure. Now once you have that wire pulled of the switch start the car and put that wire on the neg side of the bat. If the fan comes in the switch is bad. If the fan doesn't come on could be your fan. Or relay or break in the wiring harness.
Now for the fan, there's a 2 wire plug that goes to your fan. Find the red one and put power to it. If the fan comes on then it's a relay or something crazy. At that point I would (and have) put the fan on a toggle switch so I can just turn the fan on and off when I want.
02-23-2016, 06:39 AM
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Re: 92 camaro rs v8 overheating
I'm saying "distilled water" because the stuff that comes out of the tap has all manner of gunk in it that eventually settles out and coats everything in the system with scale; kinda like what builds up in your bathtub or sink.
Boil a pan of water all the way out and see what's left behind.
As far as the rad cap, it's important to understand how a cooling system works.
At its core is the coolant. This substance contains water. One of the most amusing oversimplifications is the one about "water boils at 212° F". That leaves out 2 critical details: PURE water AT SEA LEVEL PRESSURE boils at 212° F, but the coolant in your car is neither pure water (or shouldn't be, anyway... should be a mix as described above) NOR is it at sea level pressure. Instead, a 60/40 water/AF mix at 15 psi (rad cap pressure) boils at around 265° F... QUITE A BIT of difference.
Your factory cooling system was designed such that the fan turns on at around 235° F. In other words, the factory engineers (not that they know anything about how the car is supposed to work, I'm just throwing that out there) thought that the engine DIDN'T EVEN NEED COOLING AT ALL until it reached that temp. Obviously, if the system has pure water in it, and the rad cap doesn't hold pressure, it's going to bubble and spew and ACT LIKE it's overheating, even when it's completely within its design envelope.
So, the usual sequence of events goes something like: cooling system gets old and develops a leak somewhere; owner uses garden hose to refill it, over and over; entire innards of system becomes coated in a thick layer of calcium grunge; rad cap also develops leaks and fails to seal; the now antifreeze-less coolant boils because the leaks won't let the pressure build up; and the owner thinks the car is overheating. Then the hack jobs begin instead of repair.
No hack jobs. Fix it right. Flush the cooling system with some kind of good heavy-duty acid-based cleaner, to get rid of the lime buildup. The kind that's 2-part, where you do the acid first and then the neutralizer, is best. Drain and flush the system COMPLETELY, which means, the rad drain AND BOTH BLOCK DRAINS. (one of which is the knock sensor if you have a V8... I have not the vaguest clue whether that's true about a 6-cyl) You can use tap water for that of course. Let it drain until empty. Fix all the leaks: replace the water pump if it weeps, find any leaky gaskets such as the intake and replace them, etc. Might as well replace all the hoses since they're probably old and tired and stressed out and ready to pop anyway, and it makes no sense to "renew" the system yet leave maypop hoses in it, like land mines for you to step on over the next few months. Same for the fan temp switch: just replace it, it's cheeeeeep, and no sense doing all this work and leaving something in there that you don't know whether it works or not. Buy a NEW radiator cap. Then put the block drain plugs back in and close up the rad, add 2 gallons of AF, and fill it the rest of the way with distilled water. Save the last quart or so of AF and put it in the coolant bottle, along with a quart or so of distilled water. Start the car, let it idle until it reaches operating temp. Turn it off and let it cool down. It will draw in coolant from the bottle. Top the bottle off.
No it is not necessary to "burp" or "bleed" the cooling system. I have no clue how that myth ever got started: never in all my days has it EVER been necessary on ANY car I've ever had when everything else is done right. Might have to wait acoupla minutes as you fill the rad for it to settle out, but no "burping" or "bleeding" is required.
I have NEVER, EVER, IN ANY CAR, AT ANY TIME, FOR ANY REASON, EVER, put in a manual fan switch.
Boil a pan of water all the way out and see what's left behind.
As far as the rad cap, it's important to understand how a cooling system works.
At its core is the coolant. This substance contains water. One of the most amusing oversimplifications is the one about "water boils at 212° F". That leaves out 2 critical details: PURE water AT SEA LEVEL PRESSURE boils at 212° F, but the coolant in your car is neither pure water (or shouldn't be, anyway... should be a mix as described above) NOR is it at sea level pressure. Instead, a 60/40 water/AF mix at 15 psi (rad cap pressure) boils at around 265° F... QUITE A BIT of difference.
Your factory cooling system was designed such that the fan turns on at around 235° F. In other words, the factory engineers (not that they know anything about how the car is supposed to work, I'm just throwing that out there) thought that the engine DIDN'T EVEN NEED COOLING AT ALL until it reached that temp. Obviously, if the system has pure water in it, and the rad cap doesn't hold pressure, it's going to bubble and spew and ACT LIKE it's overheating, even when it's completely within its design envelope.
So, the usual sequence of events goes something like: cooling system gets old and develops a leak somewhere; owner uses garden hose to refill it, over and over; entire innards of system becomes coated in a thick layer of calcium grunge; rad cap also develops leaks and fails to seal; the now antifreeze-less coolant boils because the leaks won't let the pressure build up; and the owner thinks the car is overheating. Then the hack jobs begin instead of repair.
No hack jobs. Fix it right. Flush the cooling system with some kind of good heavy-duty acid-based cleaner, to get rid of the lime buildup. The kind that's 2-part, where you do the acid first and then the neutralizer, is best. Drain and flush the system COMPLETELY, which means, the rad drain AND BOTH BLOCK DRAINS. (one of which is the knock sensor if you have a V8... I have not the vaguest clue whether that's true about a 6-cyl) You can use tap water for that of course. Let it drain until empty. Fix all the leaks: replace the water pump if it weeps, find any leaky gaskets such as the intake and replace them, etc. Might as well replace all the hoses since they're probably old and tired and stressed out and ready to pop anyway, and it makes no sense to "renew" the system yet leave maypop hoses in it, like land mines for you to step on over the next few months. Same for the fan temp switch: just replace it, it's cheeeeeep, and no sense doing all this work and leaving something in there that you don't know whether it works or not. Buy a NEW radiator cap. Then put the block drain plugs back in and close up the rad, add 2 gallons of AF, and fill it the rest of the way with distilled water. Save the last quart or so of AF and put it in the coolant bottle, along with a quart or so of distilled water. Start the car, let it idle until it reaches operating temp. Turn it off and let it cool down. It will draw in coolant from the bottle. Top the bottle off.
No it is not necessary to "burp" or "bleed" the cooling system. I have no clue how that myth ever got started: never in all my days has it EVER been necessary on ANY car I've ever had when everything else is done right. Might have to wait acoupla minutes as you fill the rad for it to settle out, but no "burping" or "bleeding" is required.
I have NEVER, EVER, IN ANY CAR, AT ANY TIME, FOR ANY REASON, EVER, put in a manual fan switch.
02-23-2016, 08:26 AM
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Re: 92 camaro rs v8 overheating
I'm saying "distilled water" because the stuff that comes out of the tap has all manner of gunk in it that eventually settles out and coats everything in the system with scale; kinda like what builds up in your bathtub or sink.
Boil a pan of water all the way out and see what's left behind.
As far as the rad cap, it's important to understand how a cooling system works.
At its core is the coolant. This substance contains water. One of the most amusing oversimplifications is the one about "water boils at 212° F". That leaves out 2 critical details: PURE water AT SEA LEVEL PRESSURE boils at 212° F, but the coolant in your car is neither pure water (or shouldn't be, anyway... should be a mix as described above) NOR is it at sea level pressure. Instead, a 60/40 water/AF mix at 15 psi (rad cap pressure) boils at around 265° F... QUITE A BIT of difference.
Your factory cooling system was designed such that the fan turns on at around 235° F. In other words, the factory engineers (not that they know anything about how the car is supposed to work, I'm just throwing that out there) thought that the engine DIDN'T EVEN NEED COOLING AT ALL until it reached that temp. Obviously, if the system has pure water in it, and the rad cap doesn't hold pressure, it's going to bubble and spew and ACT LIKE it's overheating, even when it's completely within its design envelope.
So, the usual sequence of events goes something like: cooling system gets old and develops a leak somewhere; owner uses garden hose to refill it, over and over; entire innards of system becomes coated in a thick layer of calcium grunge; rad cap also develops leaks and fails to seal; the now antifreeze-less coolant boils because the leaks won't let the pressure build up; and the owner thinks the car is overheating. Then the hack jobs begin instead of repair.
No hack jobs. Fix it right. Flush the cooling system with some kind of good heavy-duty acid-based cleaner, to get rid of the lime buildup. The kind that's 2-part, where you do the acid first and then the neutralizer, is best. Drain and flush the system COMPLETELY, which means, the rad drain AND BOTH BLOCK DRAINS. (one of which is the knock sensor if you have a V8... I have not the vaguest clue whether that's true about a 6-cyl) You can use tap water for that of course. Let it drain until empty. Fix all the leaks: replace the water pump if it weeps, find any leaky gaskets such as the intake and replace them, etc. Might as well replace all the hoses since they're probably old and tired and stressed out and ready to pop anyway, and it makes no sense to "renew" the system yet leave maypop hoses in it, like land mines for you to step on over the next few months. Same for the fan temp switch: just replace it, it's cheeeeeep, and no sense doing all this work and leaving something in there that you don't know whether it works or not. Buy a NEW radiator cap. Then put the block drain plugs back in and close up the rad, add 2 gallons of AF, and fill it the rest of the way with distilled water. Save the last quart or so of AF and put it in the coolant bottle, along with a quart or so of distilled water. Start the car, let it idle until it reaches operating temp. Turn it off and let it cool down. It will draw in coolant from the bottle. Top the bottle off.
No it is not necessary to "burp" or "bleed" the cooling system. I have no clue how that myth ever got started: never in all my days has it EVER been necessary on ANY car I've ever had when everything else is done right. Might have to wait acoupla minutes as you fill the rad for it to settle out, but no "burping" or "bleeding" is required.
I have NEVER, EVER, IN ANY CAR, AT ANY TIME, FOR ANY REASON, EVER, put in a manual fan switch.
Boil a pan of water all the way out and see what's left behind.
As far as the rad cap, it's important to understand how a cooling system works.
At its core is the coolant. This substance contains water. One of the most amusing oversimplifications is the one about "water boils at 212° F". That leaves out 2 critical details: PURE water AT SEA LEVEL PRESSURE boils at 212° F, but the coolant in your car is neither pure water (or shouldn't be, anyway... should be a mix as described above) NOR is it at sea level pressure. Instead, a 60/40 water/AF mix at 15 psi (rad cap pressure) boils at around 265° F... QUITE A BIT of difference.
Your factory cooling system was designed such that the fan turns on at around 235° F. In other words, the factory engineers (not that they know anything about how the car is supposed to work, I'm just throwing that out there) thought that the engine DIDN'T EVEN NEED COOLING AT ALL until it reached that temp. Obviously, if the system has pure water in it, and the rad cap doesn't hold pressure, it's going to bubble and spew and ACT LIKE it's overheating, even when it's completely within its design envelope.
So, the usual sequence of events goes something like: cooling system gets old and develops a leak somewhere; owner uses garden hose to refill it, over and over; entire innards of system becomes coated in a thick layer of calcium grunge; rad cap also develops leaks and fails to seal; the now antifreeze-less coolant boils because the leaks won't let the pressure build up; and the owner thinks the car is overheating. Then the hack jobs begin instead of repair.
No hack jobs. Fix it right. Flush the cooling system with some kind of good heavy-duty acid-based cleaner, to get rid of the lime buildup. The kind that's 2-part, where you do the acid first and then the neutralizer, is best. Drain and flush the system COMPLETELY, which means, the rad drain AND BOTH BLOCK DRAINS. (one of which is the knock sensor if you have a V8... I have not the vaguest clue whether that's true about a 6-cyl) You can use tap water for that of course. Let it drain until empty. Fix all the leaks: replace the water pump if it weeps, find any leaky gaskets such as the intake and replace them, etc. Might as well replace all the hoses since they're probably old and tired and stressed out and ready to pop anyway, and it makes no sense to "renew" the system yet leave maypop hoses in it, like land mines for you to step on over the next few months. Same for the fan temp switch: just replace it, it's cheeeeeep, and no sense doing all this work and leaving something in there that you don't know whether it works or not. Buy a NEW radiator cap. Then put the block drain plugs back in and close up the rad, add 2 gallons of AF, and fill it the rest of the way with distilled water. Save the last quart or so of AF and put it in the coolant bottle, along with a quart or so of distilled water. Start the car, let it idle until it reaches operating temp. Turn it off and let it cool down. It will draw in coolant from the bottle. Top the bottle off.
No it is not necessary to "burp" or "bleed" the cooling system. I have no clue how that myth ever got started: never in all my days has it EVER been necessary on ANY car I've ever had when everything else is done right. Might have to wait acoupla minutes as you fill the rad for it to settle out, but no "burping" or "bleeding" is required.
I have NEVER, EVER, IN ANY CAR, AT ANY TIME, FOR ANY REASON, EVER, put in a manual fan switch.
02-23-2016, 12:23 PM
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Re: 92 camaro rs v8 overheating
Just throwing this out there. My firebird did same as yours I changed stat to a 180 and flushed and changed coolant with no good results. I bite my lip and waited until the fan came on at around 235. I did finally come across the problem the bottom rad hose was clasping under engine revs. They do not have a spring in hose and as they get older they get weak. Bought new lower hose and over heating went away.
02-23-2016, 02:10 PM
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Re: 92 camaro rs v8 overheating
O ok that makes sense about the water.
Hey question a shop did the flush right? So wouldn't they of put the right amount of AF? And not just water.
He is right about everything. And you really don't want to rid anything but as we all know the electric fans are always having problems with the switch or relay or something. I switched my electric fan to a mechanical one.
Hey question a shop did the flush right? So wouldn't they of put the right amount of AF? And not just water.
He is right about everything. And you really don't want to rid anything but as we all know the electric fans are always having problems with the switch or relay or something. I switched my electric fan to a mechanical one.
02-23-2016, 06:16 PM
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Re: 92 camaro rs v8 overheating
O ok that makes sense about the water.
Hey question a shop did the flush right? So wouldn't they of put the right amount of AF? And not just water.
He is right about everything. And you really don't want to rid anything but as we all know the electric fans are always having problems with the switch or relay or something. I switched my electric fan to a mechanical one.
Hey question a shop did the flush right? So wouldn't they of put the right amount of AF? And not just water.
He is right about everything. And you really don't want to rid anything but as we all know the electric fans are always having problems with the switch or relay or something. I switched my electric fan to a mechanical one.
02-23-2016, 06:37 PM
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Re: 92 camaro rs v8 overheating
O ok that makes sense about the water.
Hey question a shop did the flush right? So wouldn't they of put the right amount of AF? And not just water.
He is right about everything. And you really don't want to rid anything but as we all know the electric fans are always having problems with the switch or relay or something. I switched my electric fan to a mechanical one.
Hey question a shop did the flush right? So wouldn't they of put the right amount of AF? And not just water.
He is right about everything. And you really don't want to rid anything but as we all know the electric fans are always having problems with the switch or relay or something. I switched my electric fan to a mechanical one.
Bottom rad hose seems flexible and secure.
I think I am going to have to call the mobile mechanic ughhhhh.
Thanks for all your help friends!
Last edited by scarr001; 02-23-2016 at 06:42 PM.
02-27-2016, 10:18 PM
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Re: 92 camaro rs v8 overheating
DARKmj16 thanks, ya the shop did a complete radiator flush and replaced all the fluids and it ran great for about 10 days. Right now bcse it overheated so bad, there is no coolant in the overflow so I am going to add the premixed fluid... But I can only find one wired connection that is on the front of the engine and has two wires going to it, and it is like a plugin... so I am stuck as to testing the fan or temp sensor...and I don't want to mess with the thermostat cuz then I might have to bleed it, and I have done the thermostat change and I do get air pockets or bubbles that I have to bleed.
Bottom rad hose seems flexible and secure.
I think I am going to have to call the mobile mechanic ughhhhh.
Thanks for all your help friends!
Bottom rad hose seems flexible and secure.
I think I am going to have to call the mobile mechanic ughhhhh.
Thanks for all your help friends!
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