scarr001

When replacing the fan switch that is located on the engine block itself, should I have tefloned taped it? The fan worx when the a/c is turned on, but not to prevent overheating. 92 camaro v8 5.0

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

rs or z28. tbi or tpi.

it is best to fill out the info like mine on the left below my avatar so people have an idea of what kind of car you have.

scarr001

One92rs, sorry, rs, Tbi

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

Hi, the sensor located in the block is the knock sensor. The fan switch is up higher in the side of the head between the last two spark plugs on the passenger side. To make sure the wiring is good, with the key on, touching the fan switch connector contact to ground should turn on the fan since all the fan switch does is provide a ground for that wire going to the relay. And no need for teflon tape
Also, with the stock switch, the fan won't even come on til it hits around 220 degrees or so. How high have you let it get to while testing the switch?

scarr001

Hi Henryd3! Happy New Year, I did see the knock sensor but I did find the coolant fan switch with the green wire, I thought for sure it was the reason my fan isn't coming on to prevent the overheating, but the fan still only comes on when a/c is on? I don't know what else to check?

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

Well, since the fan comes on with AC, that means the relay and fan are good. Try touching that green wire to a ground with the key on. That should turn on the fan. If it does, the problem is the fan switch or it's connector. If it doesn't come on, there's a problem with the wire between the fan connector and the relay
If you used teflon tape that could prevent the switch from being grounded to the head making it unable to ground the wire possibly??

scarr001

Thanks again Henryd3 that's good info - where does that green wire go? To a fuse? I know the one end attaches to the fan switch, but the green wire ends where? can the relay be changed out?

scarr001

I guess when a copper wire touches the green wire and the battery, the fan did come on

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

So when you grounded the green wire with the key on the fan came on? That means the wire, relay and fan are all good. That green wire goes over to the fan relay by the brake booster. It's easily switched out, but yours is working fine. The AC being turned on connects to that same wire and actuates the relay exactly like the fan switch should. You touched the copper wire you mentioned to the battery ground, right?. Is the connector on the end of the green wire in good shape? And the green wire should actually have a white stripe on it too but might be hard to tell

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

http://austinthirdgen.org/mkportal/m...ine_wiring.gif

henry3d has it correct. take any sealnt off the sensor. and make darn sure they did not sell you the coolant gauge sendor, ecm sensor to rerplace the fan switch. it has hapened a bunch

hopefully the one you got looked like this one.,

scarr001

Yep that's the one we have and we ran the car til it was in the red, we r going to take the teflon tape off now and try

scarr001

Well, tape is off, still overheats bcse fan doesn't come on, sh anyould the fan come on at 220?any other ideas?

scarr001

What's the thoughts about wiring it so the fan is on anytime the car is on?

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

with the factory tuning the fan will come at approx 238*

ok so the fan will come on when the wire is grounded but noy when it is hooked to the switch?

and many of people have hard wired the fan. cheap way around it. i got away from the factory fan control. went to a flexalite controller

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-31165

scarr001

One92rs, that helps a lot, it doesn't come on, looking at the Haynes there is a fuse - could it be that? The kit you suggested looks great, my friend wants to just bypass and do it so it runs whenever the car is on, is that going to stress the alternator and other parts too much?

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

I got tired of dealing with failing fan switches and got this kit from Summit. Works fine for my single fan system just like yours and a little less pricey with a few less features.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16759/

scarr001

Thnx Henryd3 Price is better, so what I am getting is that running the fan all the time may not be the best idea? Could I run it all the time for a bit and then when I have money do the summit kit?

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

Aside from more wear on the fan, it's not so bad especially in warmer times of the year, but not that great. Okay for around town in most cases. And it is free

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

just for grins do something. find the dark green and white wire at the a/c pressure switch. either on the drier or on the line down from it. ground that wire and see if it comes on with the car running. you said when you turn the a/c on it works. if it does tap into that wire and run it to the switch and see what it does. also if you have a meter check continuity from the connector to the relay or just behind the connector by stripping a tiny bit of wiring from it. the wire could be broke in the connector to the sensor.

jermdm

Are you sure that the car is overheating? Does it start running bad or the overflow bottle start gurgling? Are you going by the gauge on the cluster or using an aftermarket gauge? The gauges in our cars arent the best. Best way to find out is to hook up a scanner and look at the data the ecm is receiving from the temp sensor and compare that with the gauge reading from the temp sender. My car shows an overheat on the gauge but my scanner says different. I would make sure that you car is overheating before you start throwing parts and money in it.

deadbird

Tuning has nothing to do with the fan switch. ECM controlled fans (and this TBI which doesn't control the fan via ECM) come on around 220°F

For any and all f-bodies equipped with a fan switch (excluding the tta), the fan switch is 238°F.

Just because the gauge is in the red, doesn't mean much. While they are reasonably accurate, there are pleanty of factors to make them show higher than actual temperature, added resistance is the main issue (crappy contacts, corroded wires).

Autozone SW505 (or equivalent), is a 215°F fan switch.

Teflon tape, unless you put 50wraps on the threads, will not affect anything. Most new fan switches or sensors that go in a coolant or oil passage will already come with a pre-applied dry thread sealant anyways.

duffer26

that and make sure the grounds to the back of the head are good