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So I'm really wanting key-less unlocking/locking and while I'm at it I may as well get remote start since I have an automatic. Then the slippery slope begins....
Should I go full on cutting edge modern system, or keep it simple? The car is always kept in my garage and never driven to work so I have no need for an alarm really but it seems all key-less entry/remote start systems are alarms too anyway. It would really be slick to have remote hatch open since mines motorized and lifts up by itself anyway.
I'm REALLY worried about the wiring tho. I was looking at the Viper system with the 2-way color OLED fob and paying a local authorized Viper installer to do it. My worry is; will this forever screw up my factory harness and wiring? I've heard horror stories and even had the problem myself with old alarm system wiring in vehicles screwing all kinds of things up.
92GTA,
I am thinking about doing the same. I am going for the keyless entry with remote start and alarm since it is cost effective. Look into the Autopage keyless entry, remote start with alarm. They are priced pretty reasonable. Take a look at Sonic electronic website.
Why not just use a kit for shaved door handles if you don't want/need an alarm? You could wire it to lock and unlock the car doors instead of popping them open easily enough. You can also use it to open the hatch as well.
What about a GM system? For example, I love these factory GM remotes because they only have the exact buttons I want: lock/unlock, trunk, and remote start. http://www.ebay.com/itm/230891670876 Too bad you can't get them with like a Pontiac logo on them lol.
Where do you get the factory GM control modules/systems at? Like the ones prior to when they all started getting built into the ECU?
Can you get the shaved door handle kits with the add-on for remote start?
The car is always kept in my garage ... so I have no need for an alarm really
There's your answer right there.
will this forever screw up my factory harness and wiring?
Absolutely. Certainly, Positively. Take it to the bank. Unless you know of some way to install a vehicle-disablement system in some way that will allow it do disable the vehicle yet leave the vehicle unaltered.
even had the problem myself with old alarm system wiring in vehicles screwing all kinds of things up
Then why would you DESTROY this car the same way?
I can think of few more effective ways to permanently and irreparably DESTROY a car, than to put this sort of thing in it. You already know this. Why are you even THINKING about it? Just DON'T.
Is it possible for the unlocking feature to be 2 step? As in one press opens the driver door only second press unlocks passenger?
No. Not without cutting the wiring up pretty hard and adding more parts. There's only one relay, which has wires to both doors and works them both at the same time, such that both door lock solenoids get powered from it.
We (GM) did offer Remote Keyless Entry Systems for the Third-Gens as Dealer Installed Options...
I still have a NOS System buried in storage somewhere.
It was from 1992, and only operated the door-locks, not the Power-Electric Hatch.
There are far more modern, and better operating Systems now.
If you think it would be a fun project then go at it and have fun. But maybe put it together with a mindset that it might need to come out eventually (make it plug and play with connectors).
Personally, I wouldn't hand over the job to anyone. Best to do it yourself because nobody cares more about your stuff than you. And if it's not something you would enjoy doing yourself then maybe just skip it.
If you think it would be a fun project then go at it and have fun. But maybe put it together with a mindset that it might need to come out eventually (make it plug and play with connectors).
Personally, I wouldn't hand over the job to anyone. Best to do it yourself because nobody cares more about your stuff than you. And if it's not something you would enjoy doing yourself then maybe just skip it.
I couldn't agree more!
I won't even let Car-Stereo/ Car-Alarm professionals install their products into any of my Families vehicles.
Obviously I am aware that these Professionals get paid very little for the Service that they do...
But it causes the work/ Wiring-Techniques to often be horrible!
I am at the opposite end of the spectrum, and always "Over Do" the Work/ use "Over-Kill" Parts.
But not everyone wants that, or can afford that.
I am that guy who installs everything with a Delphi sealed Connector, and the most stringent wiring practices...
LOL! I am a bit nuts that way!
OP, unless you do automotive wiring work professionally, or are at least a highly-skilled hobbyist who can perform the work at that same level of expertise and quality, you'd do well to just leave the car's original wiring original. And as far as farming the job out to some "shop," well, the results of such actions have been well-documented across many posts in this forum.
Alarms are not much more difficult than installing a radio. Our $149.95 alarm needs 8 wires from your car for all the features to operate, even less if you don't want to have the ignition disable. We include 3rd gen specific instructions and simply the system as much as possible by combining/eliminating wires that are not needed for a 3rd gen. Our $119.95 keyless is even easier since it has fewer options to hook up, the system works great if keyless entry and trunk release are the main things your wanting.
[QUOTE=scfbody;6439352]Alarms are not much more difficult than installing a radio. Our $149.95 alarm needs 8 wires from your car for all the features to operate, even less if you don't want to have the ignition disable. We include 3rd gen specific instructions and simply the system as much as possible by combining/eliminating wires that are not needed for a 3rd gen. Our $119.95 keyless is even easier since it has fewer options to hook up, the system works great if keyless entry and trunk release are the main things your wanting.
Hi, I just took a look at your systems. I do not need an alarm system or a door unlocker. Here is what I would like. A remote just for unlocking the rear hatch. Do you have anything simple that would do just that. Louis
Alarms are not much more difficult than installing a radio. Our $149.95 alarm needs 8 wires from your car for all the features to operate, even less if you don't want to have the ignition disable. We include 3rd gen specific instructions and simply the system as much as possible by combining/eliminating wires that are not needed for a 3rd gen. Our $119.95 keyless is even easier since it has fewer options to hook up, the system works great if keyless entry and trunk release are the main things your wanting.
Hi, I just took a look at your systems. I do not need an alarm system or a door unlocker. Here is what I would like. A remote just for unlocking the rear hatch. Do you have anything simple that would do just that. Louis
Unfortunately we do not, actually the door unlocker/trunk release only is also hard to find nowadays. You could use our keyless entry and just not hook up the door part of it. I can swap you a trunk relay for the door lock relay which saves $10. Without the door locks the system would be a simpler install, wouldn't need that many wires connected. Most of the systems available have remote start and some other stuff that only applies to newer cars. The Prestige systems have been the best for older cars since they have technology without being complicated.
Every single car I've ever seen with an aftermarket alarm more than about 5 yrs old, in my 40-odd years around this hobby, has had electrical problems. That's EVERY, with a capital V, with NO exceptions. They are compounded by the fact that those things are made in China and the make, model, etc. changes regularly, such that when one goes bad, it's all but impossible to repair or replace. Compound the lack of repair parts with the total absence of documentation, the non-standard part numbers printed on the parts. etc., and the damage invariably done to the car's wiring in the process of "installation", it should be OBVIOUS why they are a guaranteed source of unreliability, intermittents, and failure.
While I don't want to call into question the value / longevity / quality of YOUR particular product or installation as opposed to anyone else's, the odds ARE what they ARE. And if EVERY car that has such a product has experienced a failure of it, then it's highly unlikely that The Next One will fare any differently.
Even the factory system in these cars (VATS) is NOTORIOUS for failure.
My opinion and advice remains the same. Unless somebody deliberately wants to implant a TIME BOMB in their electrical system, these products should be avoided.
Every single car I've ever seen with an aftermarket alarm more than about 5 yrs old, in my 40-odd years around this hobby, has had electrical problems. That's EVERY, with a capital V, with NO exceptions. They are compounded by the fact that those things are made in China and the make, model, etc. changes regularly, such that when one goes bad, it's all but impossible to repair or replace. Compound the lack of repair parts with the total absence of documentation, the non-standard part numbers printed on the parts. etc., and the damage invariably done to the car's wiring in the process of "installation", it should be OBVIOUS why they are a guaranteed source of unreliability, intermittents, and failure.
While I don't want to call into question the value / longevity / quality of YOUR particular product or installation as opposed to anyone else's, the odds ARE what they ARE. And if EVERY car that has such a product has experienced a failure of it, then it's highly unlikely that The Next One will fare any differently.
Even the factory system in these cars (VATS) is NOTORIOUS for failure.
My opinion and advice remains the same. Unless somebody deliberately wants to implant a TIME BOMB in their electrical system, these products should be avoided.
I sold/installed them in the 90s and have been selling them thru our website for over 2 years. They work great when installed correctly and are no different than radios, the poor quality ones fail quicker. Prestige is the brand we currently sell and was also the same brand I sold in the 90s when I was in my 20s working in the car audio industry. The alarm/keyless we sell doesn't effect the car other than opening your door locks or letting you know if it's broken into. When installed correctly alarms don't damage the car in any way. Like a stereo someone that doesn't know what they are doing can do real damage to a car when attempting an install thou. Unfortunately alarms get the blame for a lot of things like poor connections, wires connected to the wrong source and bypassed fuses. Alarms/keyless entry systems are very similar to your radio or other electrical devices, if it gets the correct power and ground correctly they work great. An old alarm can be removed in about 30 minutes to a hour with no damage to the vehicle if you know what your doing. The ignition disable feature on an alarm is the only part of the system that could potentially leave you stranded, but that is the same with any part of the car's electrical system that uses a relay. If you don't hook up that feature on the alarm, it doesn't attach to any wires or system that would keep the car from running/being drivable - worst case you will have to use your key to unlock the doors.
If car is parked in an attached garage then a car alarm seems silly.
Obviously you don't really leave the car anywhere in public. I don't either. I'll never take my car to Wal-Mart. I do drive to work but it's rural with 8 foot fencing topped with wire, and security guards and cameras, and there are no neighbors. It's like having my own personal security detail watching my car all day. Even I can view the parking lot camera on my computer if I want.
You guys realize the OP was in 2014? Till KR81 woke this up. FWIW my very old clifford IPS alarm from 1989 (installed) still works great. The only part that has ever failed is the shock sensor. I too would like keyless entry, i got too used to it with my 99 s10.
Yes, and the same questions concerning electrical problems caused by modified (read, 'hacked-up') wiring and/or malfunctioning car alarms appear here daily. IMO, anyone considering installing one of these chinese troublemakers needs a warning.
I'm happy that your system is still functioning properly; yours seems to be the exception to the rule.
The first problem I ran into bringing my convertible out of hibernation was an alarm that wouldn't respond to the key fob. Ripped it out and moved on to the next problem. Some alarm features (keyless entry) are nice, but I'd hesitate to hack the wiring of an original car.
Does anyone even bother to look anymore when an alarm siren goes off?
Especially now with everyone's heads bent down tapping away on their smartphones.
What is really needed is an immobilizer (starter, ignition, or fuel) so that the car can't be driven, or driven very far.
In Manhattan; NOBODY pays any mind towards Car-Alarms.
I would rather have a "Silent-Alarm" that activates and shuts down Spark, Injector-Pulse, Fuel-Pump, and Starter Circuits.
Let the Thief get fed-up trying to steal the Vehicle... and go home crying.
In Manhattan; NOBODY pays any mind towards Car-Alarms.
I would rather have a "Silent-Alarm" that activates and shuts down Spark, Injector-Pulse, Fuel-Pump, and Starter Circuits.
Let the Thief get fed-up trying to steal the Vehicle... and go home crying.
09-10-2014, 07:05 PM
