LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Well i finally got the motor out of the donor truck, came out of a 97 tahoe, to my surprise it was a untouched block and looking good. My Eagle bottom end will be delivered Monday. I went with the Cast steel crank, forged KB pistons (flat top, 2 valve relief), forged I beam rods. Compression ratio is 11:1 with 64cc heads.

Now Iv'e been told i can run 11:1 on 93-94 pump gas with no ping, and iv'e been told i shouldnt run more then 10:5. I will be buying the #1042 AFR heads, 195cc 65cc heads. Thinking i should be fine right?

Now before i get the motor to the shop when the kit comes in, Am thinking i want to use atleast a 75-100 shot on it. Should i get the piston ring gapped or no?

I emailed Lunati about what cam is recommended with this build and have yet got a response. I want the most cam i can get and be some streetable, will not be a daily driver. RPM range from 2-6300.

How much power am i looking at if i go with underdrive pullies? Will the investment be worth it?

Specs:
TH-350 or th-400 trans (not decided yet), 411 richmond gears. MSD ignition, 750 holley HP mechanical, Performer RPM Air Gap intake, Be Cool Aluminum Radiator

ziggy89

yes gap your rings. i checked all of mine and they were on the bottom end of the spectrum or too low so i had to file them. and if your goin to run spray youll want sum extra ring gap.

im running 10:1 with 72cc iron heads so i would think that with nice alum heads a 11:1 ratio would be fine.

as far as the rear goes id recomend goin to an aftermarket also. i never had a problem with my 3.73 7.5 but those dead hooks at the track can be a little nerve racking.

here is my cam http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL12-326-4/

ive got a 2500 stall in my firebird and it makes power right away on launch and its still pulling good at 6k in third and wants to go higher. i run a 6100 pill cause im running the same crank and rods as you and 6k is all the more rpms it calls for.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

i picked up the rear for 500$, came out of a 92 maro, the guy changed everything execpt the axles. So i figured it would hold up ALOT better then the stock rear that came with the v-6 :P Figured it could last me a month or 2 untill i get my hands on a 9 inch. I wont be hooking right away anyways, after the drivetrain is done then its time to save up for the spohn suspension.

You dont think i can get away with a bigger cam? Like i said this will not be a daily driver, more of a take it to some meets here and there and romp on it

ziggy89

why use a bigger cam. its a 2200-6200 rpm cam. sounds choppy as hell and idles at 600rpm. and like i said i shift at 5800 and run the traps at 6k and the motor still wants to go im just affaraid to spin those rods.

Atilla the Fun

Those rods are fine for shifting at 6500. If emissions is not a concern, I suggest the COMP 08-433-8 with 1.6:1 rockers and AFR's Hydra-Rev kit.
Top with an Edelbrock RPM AirGap, add Hooker Competition 1.75" long-tubes, and you're well over 500 horses.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

I've read a few about ground clearance with long tubes, i dont live in the better states per say, i live in a pot hole infested area with shi**y roads. I wanted to drop the car some rather then raise it with a stiff suspension. How much hassle are those headers going to be

Atilla the Fun

I've never tried those headers, but I do know that lowering these cars is not only unnecessary, but also hurts suspension geometry. Our centers of gravity are already lower than most exotic cars. So, do you want performance, or do you want to get down?

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Well i want both lol

I had a 86 camaro that i put an adjustable rear suspension in with 295 inch tires that also stood pretty tall. After doing that and seeing a buddy's Lowered Iroc by an inch this time around i was going with the lower route. Figured it might look better and handle better, i dont have any GFX on the car as it is now.

Original plans were to get a set of C6 wheels and lower, but as i seen C6 wheels go for 1400$ i have been looking at different rims lol Those 50$ rims were looking very good after comparing to the 1400$ price tag lol

Atilla the Fun

295/50R15 tires are only an inch taller overall than the 245/50R16s that most guys use on these cars. They still aren't tall enough to properly fill the wheel wells. If you want them full then consider 275/35R20s.
In back, you can fit 315/35R17s on 17x11s with a +36mm offset. You can get these tires for $115 each from www.tirerack.com, and the wheels are available for $125 each from www.discounttiredirect.com in the '94-95 ZR1 style.
These are the same height overall as 245/50r16s. For the front you would then use the matching 17x9.5" wheels with a +38mm offset, and some 19mm spacers, and 275/40R17 tires.
If you want low, then modify the floor pans and the headers for ground clearance, and either find Bell Tech dropped spindles, which used to exist for our cars, or find some 1" dropped ball joints.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

lol at 20's....

Am not trying to slam the car on the ground, just alittle drop, maybe not even an inch, but if i would get say 3 tenths off the 1/4 running full length headers i might just put a stiff suspension and raise the back end alittle

Atilla the Fun

The rear is the easier fix, what with Anti-Squat brackets from sources like Spohn or GMS or whichever company you like. Combine those with an adjustable panhard, then you can lower the rear awfully far without hurting the geometry.
I understand you just ruled out the 20s, but let me waste a line to type that 245/50R16s are 25.7" overall dia., while 275/35R20s are 27.6" overall dia.
The dropped balljoints would be ideal for you. They're cheap, but hard to find.
Yes, the long tubes should be worth at least 3 tenths.