kukerdan

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys..

I got the plates and inspection on this pup... only code my 96 lt1 computer throws is check engine light... and thats cause its not hooked up at all.


I bought a knock-off Painless LT1 stand alone harness (its AMAZING) From a small company.
I have 2 wire leads (wrapped together, 1 pink, 1 brow/white stripe.) Comming off the computer Labled ' Leads for Mil and ignition)... Do I just need to find the 2 wires that are chopped at my firewall and hook it up?

Can anybody help me find these ASAP?
Im working on the car with a whole autoshop to my self for the next 5 hours...


ANY input, links, pics, ETC. is GREATLY APPRECIATED

thirdgen.org BUILT MY CAR

thanks

88transam 88

ya as far as that knock off painless sounds more like it dont have the proper wires to hook it up corectly ive worked with the painless before best ever they are all labeled so it should not b this way where you sit currently call the place you bnought the product

kukerdan

iTrader: (1)

It is labled... and its awesome....
I need to know where ON THE CAR, not the harness... Where do I Find the check engine light wires , so I can splice into them..

There is No issue with my harness... as good or better than painless, and i paid way less..

please, where Do I hook the Mil leads, from my LT1 computer... to where they hook up on the car its self.

thanks@!!!

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

C207 pin C for the MIL wire from the PCM. 12v leg is handled by the cluster

kukerdan

iTrader: (1)

Where is c207 exactly... my repair manual was destroyed during hurricane irene, it flooded my downstairs, ruined a lot of random stuff including that.
Could you possibly link me to another post or a picture/diagram of some sort..

I did hook up a test light to the pos and neg on the battery. and when i fed ground, to the brown/white wire terminal that i unplugged from this (I think) current unused part of the body harness. This set of two plugs I had unplugged.. seemed to lead to the cluster. I put 12V ground to the terminal the brown/white wire went to, and the MIL came on in my camaro... Can I hook those two wire to that wire and some other, and everythings gravy?

thanks thanks thanks..



I did put plates,insurance, and it passed inspection so I took it for a rip.. it was fast as hell.. amazing.. i only went maybe a mile, makin all lefts.. so when I got back the temp gauge was floored... the thermostat wasnt opening I guess.. The overflow tank was full and leaked

I am buying a Stant Heavy Duty 180 Thermostat, and I have a new temp sensor for right there also..... I hope this fixes it tomorrow... I was supposed to drive this car home tonight... and because of that I couldnt. I drove my honda home, and as luck has it, I ran thru a police checkpoint..(everythings wrong with this honda, I wanted it gone) Got a cracked windshield ticket... Expired inspection ticket.. and I didnt have a copy of my registration, so I got a ticket for that too...
I can mail that one in... But can I plead not guilty, and show the judge that I was trying to (and will tomorrow or by monday,) take the car off the road, and replace it with the camaro, and a maxima which I already bought, and Had bought insurance for Before any of this happened.. My intentions should be clear... Can I get out of this?
Thanks again

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

C207 is the inline connectors near your old ECM. Engine side is a clear connector, dash side is a pair of black halves. Of the larger one, pin C is BRN/WHT for EFI cars and WHT/GRN for carb cars. When grounded this turns on the MIL on the cluster

Dash side C207 on the left, C221 (not related to this question) middle, and engine side C207 on the right

kukerdan

iTrader: (1)

Nice pictures.. I was able to get the mil to turn on when I unplugged those clips, and put ground to the brown/white wires terminal on the black clip I believe..
I Also think if I plug that back in... those wires run right up out into the engine bay on the passenger side...


Hey pocket... Could you (and anyone else who knows cooling) Look at my cooling problem post in the ltx swap forum?
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...fast-when.html

Its the last thing keeping me from driving the car and ditching this falling apart 89 honda.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

If it idles fine but overheats when you move its the airdam, or lack of

But, its always a good idea to try to bleed some more air out of the system. Open the bleeders and run the engine. Once a solid flow comes out close them, its been bled

kukerdan

iTrader: (1)

the overheating turned out to be a bad radiator cap :-p