TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

Been toying around with vinyl on my car, think im going to wrap the whole thing, did the hood over last weekend and posted photos today, whatcha think? already did the trunk and spoiler as a smaller test batch but the hood is large enough to share and get feedback.




Besides the vinyl I am now ready to tear into the motor, end of october (I think) I raced it at sac raceway but i am pretty sure i torched the piston rings as the motor decided to dispose of lots of engine oil smoke through the valve cover breathers.

New parts to come is edge torque converter, beehive valvesprings, slightly smaller cam for drivability and new pistons/rings size pending after shop checks the block.

OUTATIME GTA

iTrader: (2)

The color doesn't pop, but it's more consistent and flawless than the rest of the car for sure.

Cool updated mods. I'm going with an Edge too.

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

pop it like it is hot.

it looks good Traviz

tame the beast a little it may reward you sometimes have too much power is bad if you can't get it to the ground

Edge converters are hot right now. I was on the phone with Andre there last week. Was real knowledgable. They can make your converter with 70rpms of your desired stall speed. That is incredible.
But I have vigilante and love them so we will see how edge is.

86firebirdta

yup anthony ordered my edge stall for my 01 cant wait to get it in!

OUTATIME GTA

iTrader: (2)

Agreed -I've always said that.

Yes! Andre is the man. I spoke with him a few years ago when I was selecting future upgrades and I was impressed. Whenever I get around to a dyno-tune I'll be sending him my peaks and specs to get it just where I want it.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

I was going to ask about my edge feedback, Andre emailed me back about my car and recommended the 'street edge' with a 2800-3000 stall in mind and a 2.4 STR. What do you guys think? I am stepping down one notch on comp cams nitrous hp line of cams and going with the 224/236 duration cam 502/520 lift cam (thats 1.5 rocker specs) I just desire a bit more tame idling and to obtain some vaccuum back for my brakes.

I am warey of the STR on the torque converter since thats on the high side for off the throttle torque coupled with my boost already. I imagine that was recommended since I have no overdrive and could not really utilize top end trap speeds that a lower STR would provide?

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

I have never looked into torque converters that much. I know a higher STR puts more power to the ground. And i know going from a low STR converter to a high STR converter netted me a 1/2 second with drag radials also. and 2/10's in the 60'. I would run what he recomends. I am suprised at your power level he didn't offer the pro edge. If I end up going with edge for my dodge converter i will deffiantely be going pro edge.

OUTATIME GTA

iTrader: (2)

What's your current cam specs to compare to your proposed? You're not going with 1.6s? What's your current RPM at shift point? There are a lot of variables in picking a converter and the fact that he wants to couple a lower stall speed with that STR must be based on what you told him you have and your goals. A higher STR verter will give you a higher shift extension (the point your engine RPMs fall to after a shift), which may be more beneficial with a monster cam that builds all of its power up high.

I believe from just a preliminary conversation he recommended for me a "Street Edge" with stall math set at 3200-3400 rpm, and STR set at 2.45. We were going to talk in more detail, but I was in the midst of making some more changes and wanting to dyno before following-up, so it may have changed since.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

Thats comforting to hear. I read the differences between the street and the pro model but I dont know the differences beyond what they describe on the website which to me just sounds like a whole bunch of better quality (read: overkill) components for my hp and torque levels.

I currently run comps nitrous hp cam 236/248 duration .520/.540 lift (1.5 rockers) .589/.601(1.7 rockers). I currently run 1.7 ratio rockers. I want to bring it down a notch to the 224/236 duration .502/.520 lift (1.5 rockers) .568/.589 (1.7 rockers) I told him its a street strip build with shift points around 6k rpm.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

Today I removed my passenger side cylinder head and found cylinder #4 had a broken spark plug tip that danced around in there. Lots of pits in the top of the piston and bottom of head. Probably a good cause so far for the smoke. Other head will be off in the next few days then off to a shop to be looked over and freshened for use again. After that comes the engine pull.
On another note, Received my torque converter and cam. Nice looking units

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

sweet so when is it gonna be all back together

86firebirdta

your goin to love your converter!

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

Plan to drop off both cylinder heads next monday for review and repair. From there, engine pull, gotta take block to shop to see what size bore they can safely take it to then order the pistons/rings and slap that puppy back together. End of April realistically?

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

Just placed the order on pistons I decided to use this time around. DIAMOND FORGED TURBO/BLOWER DISH PISTONS 4.040 BORE -31CC DISH. will net me slightly lower compression, 8.2:1
Also picking up a virgin 350 4bolt 1piece RMS roller block this sunday to start fresh with as I think my current block is going to need at least a .060 to clean up and I dont want to run my engine on cylinder walls that thin.

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

sounds good anxious to see it next time around.

3rdBird

iTrader: (1)

Dude save a couple bucks and get a stronger block.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

An aftermarket block? I don't think I have any block issues yet. Do you think I will at my meager power levels? Only block I have my eye on is the all aluminum 427 SBC I think made by dart. But that's 5k..

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

you don't have block issues til you have block issues! blow it up! i'll sweep the parts off teh racetrack for you!

JesasaurusRex

iTrader: (3)

no

3rdBird

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm,

How much HP do you think it was making before you started experiencing problems, and how long did it last?

I know sb's will handle a lot of power, but for how long on a budget build?

$5k for an aluminum bare block sounds excessive. The weight advantage of aluminum vs the durability of cast iron isn't worth it for high HP #'s

Just my opinion

I'm with undercover, I'll help sweep up the pieces, it'll make for a good story

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

if you can guarantee it'll scatter travis we just might be able to have the biggest thirdgen.org norcal gtg ever!

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

I don't believe the problem I had was block related but rather the ground strap of the spark plug (Autolite) that had bounced around in my cylinder I found after I removed the head.

I have read in much research that the stock block is good for 800+hp before considering aftermarket blocks. What do you consider budget build about my block?
You recommend another iron but stouter block?

Really my plans is to get this nice stroker moving again and then focus on the rest of the car including exterior and final small but necessary touch ups.
After that is done I want to focus on an Iron gen 3/4 build. I found a good deal on an LQ4 crank that I am sitting on which serves as the icon for my future vision.

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

they sell that iron lsx block on summit for like 700 bucks there ya go for a future build!

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

ya I have an eye on that. We will see when the time comes.

JesasaurusRex

iTrader: (3)

Aluminum blocks are spendy, and I think there are way better ways to spend the cash. Especially if it's not a full blown race application. If moneys no object go for it. Know you'll still be spending the same amount (or should be) of coin on machine work on an aftermarket block as you would a factory casting. Factory 4 bolt main 350s can stand up to some decent abuse (sell ya one CHHHEEEAAPPP lol) . I'm still using a stock block in my car. Granted i haven't raced it in a year n a half, but i've put some hard passes on it that's for sure and it's held up so far (knock on wood).

I'm not exactly sure what you're looking to get out of your car Travis, if i know you at all I'm assuming you're still looking to do some sort of street strip deal. The block is the last thing i'd be worried about (not talking about machine work) if i were you.

Good luck

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

Street strip is still my routine. It's nice to see you around again, what have you been doing for the last year? I am picking up a virgin block tomorrow to start fresh with. Already ordered new pistons/rings/cam/torque converter to go along with it. re using my crank and rods.

JesasaurusRex

iTrader: (3)

Working on the road, just don't have the time anymore unfortunately

3rdBird

iTrader: (1)

Travis, I figured you were mashing on it pretty hard with that blower on it. My old block had metal transfer on the main caps that looked like brake pads that went metal to metal.

Relax unless youre John Force, everyone's on a budget. wasn't dis'n.

If you need anything call me.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

I will be pulling the crank soon, I will inspect the bearings for any excessive wear. I was just inquiring on your comments, I wasn't offended.

83HOZ

Nice job on the hood. Was the vinyl easy to work with around the contours? What brand material did you use, and how long did it take to wrap it?

Until I can afford that proverbial "$5000" paint job, wrapping the hood would be a nice "temporary" solution to improving the overall look of the car.

Seems like a good way to experiment with different "looks" too, such as "carbon fiber" or "flames." Don't like it? Strip and wrap to match the car.

Hey, when the paint on the hood is the only part of the car that looks bad, wrapping it can't hurt, that's for sure!

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

I used 3M 1080 vinyl from metrorestyling.com This material is labeled the "Gloss Red Metallic". Honestly the cowl hood was a pain in my *** mostly because where the edge of the cowl smooths out at the front of the hood. It sucks to stretch vinyl down the side but leave it normal size up front. The trunk and spoiler were easy as well as the rest of the car because most of the panels are flat or have nice contours. the fender rolls near the tires may provide troublesome but at least it ends there. I recommend buying a large enough sample and practicing on a contoured edge to make sure you can handle that without wrinkles. Get a heat gun and the soapy water for application!



In other news, Thanks to Copchaser, I gathered this nice set for the Iroc. This will go on as soon as the motor is done.