Good nitrous rings?
#1
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Car: 86' Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-56
Good nitrous rings?
I've got a fresh built 355, but i put some crap *** 35 dollar rings in it, and i don't really trust them for nitrous. I plan to run as high as a 200 shot, but mostly keep it around a 175 shot.
As for the rest of the motor, it's a .030" over 4 bolt main block, stock crank, arp main bolts, GM PM rods with arp waveloc bolts, and speed pro forged flatop pistons. It's got trickflow heads, performer RPM intake and a speed demon 750 carb. The nitrous is a NX hitman+ kit, dedicated fuel system, window switch, WOT switch, FP switch etc.....
so anyhow, what rings and what gap should i be looking for?
The motor only has like 5k on it, so a re ring should be fine right? Should i hone it?
Eric
As for the rest of the motor, it's a .030" over 4 bolt main block, stock crank, arp main bolts, GM PM rods with arp waveloc bolts, and speed pro forged flatop pistons. It's got trickflow heads, performer RPM intake and a speed demon 750 carb. The nitrous is a NX hitman+ kit, dedicated fuel system, window switch, WOT switch, FP switch etc.....
so anyhow, what rings and what gap should i be looking for?
The motor only has like 5k on it, so a re ring should be fine right? Should i hone it?
Eric
#3
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You shouldn’t need anything special in that range.
As far as this usually goes, I prefer just standard cast rings and appropriate pistons (ring lands spaced down if you need to protect them from a big shot of N2O or blower), less wear on the bores and generally not as hard. I’d rather have to drop new rings in every few years (in really hard use) rather then have to go look for a new block (because I used hard rings which caused excessive wear)
As far as this usually goes, I prefer just standard cast rings and appropriate pistons (ring lands spaced down if you need to protect them from a big shot of N2O or blower), less wear on the bores and generally not as hard. I’d rather have to drop new rings in every few years (in really hard use) rather then have to go look for a new block (because I used hard rings which caused excessive wear)
#5
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Chrome faced rings are about as hard as they get, the only time I would really consider them is if I was running something that I knew was a high nickel content block and if I was running very thin rings. Moly is an antiwear additive that is put on the faces of standard iron rings, they’re fine
#6
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WRT to what breaks, it depends on what pistons. Pistons with the top ring lower tend to protect the rings from what is going on in the chamber. OTOH, some pistons (like the popular JE dished pistons that a lot of LT1 (and some TPI) blower guys run tend to loose the piston crown/ring land when stressed.
#7
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Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
My machinist said almost the exact same thing. I told 'em the motor would see at the very most a 200 shot he said cast rings would be better with my TRW flat tops...
We'll see what happens soon
We'll see what happens soon
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#8
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by 88IROC350TPI
My machinist said almost the exact same thing. I told 'em the motor would see at the very most a 200 shot he said cast rings would be better with my TRW flat tops...
We'll see what happens soon
My machinist said almost the exact same thing. I told 'em the motor would see at the very most a 200 shot he said cast rings would be better with my TRW flat tops...
We'll see what happens soon
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