Left front caliper won't release
#1
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Left front caliper won't release
Ok here it is. Sometimes after I brake the left front caliper won't release. It doesn't happen all the time either. I've replaced that caliper twice and installed a new proportioning valve. I've checked the hardlines and there is nothing wrong with them. An X-GM employee told me that sometimes the caliper will mechanically bind which is what looks like is happening. Any ideas? Has this happened to anyone else?
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'87 Bird 350 .060 over 700R4 + Lots more
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'87 Bird 350 .060 over 700R4 + Lots more
#2
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have you replaced rubber line that goes to the caliper yet?
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FloridaRacer.com
[This message has been edited by FloridaRacer (edited July 12, 2001).]
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FloridaRacer.com
[This message has been edited by FloridaRacer (edited July 12, 2001).]
#3
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The only part of the hydraulic system that I haven't replaced is the master cylinder and the soft lines. I think the next thing after I replace those(or the first thing) is the allen bolts that hod the caliper to the bracket. I think that they are flexing enough to cause problems.
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'87 Bird 350 .060 over 700R4 + Lots more
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'87 Bird 350 .060 over 700R4 + Lots more
#5
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Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
I'd have to put a vote towards the rubber line being the culprit as well.
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The mind is like a parachute, it only works when its open
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The mind is like a parachute, it only works when its open
#6
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Car: 92 Z, 91 Formula, 04 CTS, 01 Tahoe
Engine: 355 forged 4 bolt, SuperRam, 58mm t
Transmission: T5, looking for t-56
My brother changed his rubberlines and it solved his problems.
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'91 RS 5.0 TBI
New paint-solid black
ROH Snyper wheels-17x9 wrapped in 275/40/17
Eibach sportline springs
ASCD SS hood, High-rise Z-28 spoiler,
Hooker super comp headers,dual 3" exhaust,two 1-chamber Flomasters,Iroc sway bars,wonderbar,140 Iroc gauge cluster,Iroc steering box,Auto meter gauges,dual guage A-piller pods,open air filter,AFPR,smog delete
TBI mods,180* thermostat,
383 stroker in the works
President-Austin 3rd Gen F-body c.c.
Austin 3rd Gen F-body c.c. message board at
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See my car and others at www.ride4life.net
------------------
'91 RS 5.0 TBI
New paint-solid black
ROH Snyper wheels-17x9 wrapped in 275/40/17
Eibach sportline springs
ASCD SS hood, High-rise Z-28 spoiler,
Hooker super comp headers,dual 3" exhaust,two 1-chamber Flomasters,Iroc sway bars,wonderbar,140 Iroc gauge cluster,Iroc steering box,Auto meter gauges,dual guage A-piller pods,open air filter,AFPR,smog delete
TBI mods,180* thermostat,
383 stroker in the works
President-Austin 3rd Gen F-body c.c.
Austin 3rd Gen F-body c.c. message board at
www.hpsmotorsports.net
See my car and others at www.ride4life.net
#7
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Agreed; the rubber line... replace both fronts at the same time; otherwise, you'll surely be doing this job again on the other side soon!
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
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#9
Here is what happened to me. In the rubber lines there is a liner, when these lines get old that lining acts like a flap. This flap will hold the pressure causing the caliper to continue to brake. Replace the rubber lines! It's easy if you use heat to get the connections loose, don't bend the steel lines or your FUBAR!
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