Anak

I have been searching, but cannot find any explanations which seem to fit my problem.

The car is a '90 GTA, 305 w/ a T56. The T56 went in about 800 miles ago. A Dakota Digital SGI5 corrects the speedometer signal. That is the only relevant mod.

Today, on a freeway exit, the motor stalled. I coasted to a stop, and it restarted. I went a couple more miles to my destination, when I parked it stalled again. Now it refuses to restart. It cranks, but nothing happens.

A fuel pressure test confirms good fuel delivery, but a spark tester and a noid light say that there is no spark, nor is there an injector pulse.

The distributor would be the first element to try to evaluate. It is a small body HEI, MSD billet body, with about 40K miles on it. With a large body I could suspect the module, but what is there to do with a small body except swap it out? How could I test it to see if it is still good or has failed?

I think the only other item to consider (I think--please advise if otherwise) is the ECM. I don't have a scanner available unfortunately. Any tips for looking into that one. I rather tend to suspect the ECM since it has not set the check engine light.

Any advice on this is much appreciated.

rezinn

Most likely the module. Swap in a known good one or find an auto parts store to test it. That's all you can do.

I had one die last summer. Car got real hot before it went.

Anak

When you say module, precisely what are you referring to?

This is not the large cap HEI. The small cap HEI seems to operate via Hall Effect or some such thing.

Would the module be the ECM?

My apologies for not knowing, but this is the first time I have had to get any farther into the electronics than replacing sensors and the TPS.

RB83L69

I could be wrong; but I believe he is referring to the module.

The small cap unit has an ignition module much like the large cap kind has, except it's even more prone to sudden and complete failure as well as heat-related intermittent behavior.

Just replace it. It has probably a 80% or greater probability of being the culprit.

You test it by replacing it. That's the only sure test.

Don't forget to clean off the module mounting surface of the dist housing thoroughly, and put the heat sink compound they supply with the module between the new module and the dist body, otherwise rapid death will result.

A failed module will not set a code. All that the ECM will know is that it's not receiving pulses; in other words, the world through the eyes of the ECM looks like Key On Engine Off. If you scan it you'll get a code 12, just like you would if everything was perfect. The ECM has no way of knowing that the starter is spinning the motor but there's no spark.

Abird4u2nv1

iTrader: (-1)

He also said theres no injector pulse. Might look into the VATS. Just my .02

RB83L69

If the ECM gets no pulse from the dist, it won't supply injector pulses either.

A dead module accounts for all of his symptoms.

"The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is usually the right one."
-Occam, ancient Greek philosopher, from back when cars had breaker points

Vader

Charles Kettering. Kettering ignition.

rezinn

dans82bird

umm, care to elaborate for a youngin

Anak

I'll second that.

Additionally, where is the module mounted? What does it look like?

IROCZZ3

I agree it's most likely your ignition module because the same thing happened to me. It's located under the distributor cap....once you remove the cap, it's the small black plastic box held on with 2 small screws, it will be obvious when you see it.

430T/A

YOur modul egoing south will definatly cu spark and pulse. the module actually sticks outside the distributor. its where the 2 and 4 wire connector plugs into the distributor. that's the module. If thats not it, replace the pickup coil.
Joe