Stock Stroker Block
#1
Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1988 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: TH350
Stock Stroker Block
I was wondering if it is even possible to take a stock roller block and just change the crank to a 383 crank and not change the rods or pistons. I'm sure there would some things you would have to change, but what?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Loveland, OH, US
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes
on
15 Posts
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
No.
The rods and/or pistons.
Think about it.... if the stroke is longer, that means the pistons will try to come out the top of the block. They'lll hit the heads.
A SBC block is 9.025" from crank centerline to deck surface, more or less. In a typical factory motor, the pistons come up to about .025" from the deck surface. That means that the rotating assembly has to be exactly 9.000" tall. You'll find that it is; in a 305 or 350, the stroke is 3.480", the rod is 5.700" long from center to center, and the piston pin center is 1.560" from the top surface of the piston. So, the pin height, plus the rod length, plus half the stroke, you'd expect to come out to 9.000"; and in fact it does: 1.740" + 5.700" + 1.560" = 9.000".
If you change the stroke, one or more of the other dimensions has to be changed also, to keep the sum of those 3 numbers equal to 9.000".
The rods and/or pistons.
Think about it.... if the stroke is longer, that means the pistons will try to come out the top of the block. They'lll hit the heads.
A SBC block is 9.025" from crank centerline to deck surface, more or less. In a typical factory motor, the pistons come up to about .025" from the deck surface. That means that the rotating assembly has to be exactly 9.000" tall. You'll find that it is; in a 305 or 350, the stroke is 3.480", the rod is 5.700" long from center to center, and the piston pin center is 1.560" from the top surface of the piston. So, the pin height, plus the rod length, plus half the stroke, you'd expect to come out to 9.000"; and in fact it does: 1.740" + 5.700" + 1.560" = 9.000".
If you change the stroke, one or more of the other dimensions has to be changed also, to keep the sum of those 3 numbers equal to 9.000".
#3
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Or you could get a plate of steel that's machined perfectly flat on both sides .100" thick (depending upon your gasket thickness) and drilled / bored to perfectly match all the holes in your deck, and then sandwich that between 2 head gaskets before you bolt the heads down, to increase the deck height.
But then you'd have to put spacers on the intake gasket surface too.
Easier to just buy a set of rods and/or pistons.
But then you'd have to put spacers on the intake gasket surface too.
Easier to just buy a set of rods and/or pistons.
Last edited by Streetiron85; 05-04-2004 at 12:32 PM.
#4
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,141
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: Pro-Built 700r4 w/ 3400 converter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 3.42 gears
Originally posted by Streetiron85
Or you could get a plate of steel that's machined perfectly flat on both sides .100" thick (depending upon your gasket thickness) and drilled / bored to perfectly match all the holes in your deck, and then sandwich that between 2 head gaskets before you bolt the heads down, to increase the deck height.
But then you'd have to put spacers on the intake gasket surface too.
Easier to just buy a set of rods and/or pistons.
Or you could get a plate of steel that's machined perfectly flat on both sides .100" thick (depending upon your gasket thickness) and drilled / bored to perfectly match all the holes in your deck, and then sandwich that between 2 head gaskets before you bolt the heads down, to increase the deck height.
But then you'd have to put spacers on the intake gasket surface too.
Easier to just buy a set of rods and/or pistons.
Are you freakin kidding?? I hope so...
Last edited by Chris89GTA; 05-04-2004 at 08:26 PM.
#5
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
I never heard of it either.... it's just something I thunk up.
Although, some guys who were into building stroker Harleys used to use "stroker plates" which didn't amount to much other than a spacer under the cyl jug, to increase the deck height.
Although, some guys who were into building stroker Harleys used to use "stroker plates" which didn't amount to much other than a spacer under the cyl jug, to increase the deck height.
#6
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,141
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: Pro-Built 700r4 w/ 3400 converter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 3.42 gears
I have heard of it on motorcycles too... but not on V8 stuff... who knows... I just don't think I would do it.
Last edited by Chris89GTA; 05-04-2004 at 09:06 PM.
#7
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Well... with a stroke of 4.25" X 4.155" bore, I just calculated that you could get 461ci.
The deck height could be increased by adding a .125" spacer between the block and head, and the rods and pistons from a 434ci stroker could be used.
.... Why not ?? I'm sure it would be a strong running engine, for a while at least.
I cant believe I'm posting this
The deck height could be increased by adding a .125" spacer between the block and head, and the rods and pistons from a 434ci stroker could be used.
.... Why not ?? I'm sure it would be a strong running engine, for a while at least.
I cant believe I'm posting this
Last edited by Streetiron85; 05-04-2004 at 09:35 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Valley of the Sun
Posts: 3,852
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
Build it please,.... just remember you'll need 4 head gaskets, and some intake spacers.
#10
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
For the cost that the custom machine shop labor would set you back, a guy could probably buy a bridgeport mill and perform the labor himself. And if the project proved successful, produce and sell kits for tall deck SBC retrofits.
I'm not gonna be able to sleep tonight :lala:
I'm not gonna be able to sleep tonight :lala:
#11
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mesa, AZ: Transplanted from Chicago, IL
Posts: 1,824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Uh lets not forget the obvious here.
Tossing in a stoker crank without having the block machied to hold it and you will never turn the motor over.
Now a stoker plate is just damn silly.
Buy a kit, do it right, what the hell yall smokin to hatch some of these half baked ideas???
Tossing in a stoker crank without having the block machied to hold it and you will never turn the motor over.
Now a stoker plate is just damn silly.
Buy a kit, do it right, what the hell yall smokin to hatch some of these half baked ideas???
#12
Supreme Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Staunton,illinois
Posts: 3,067
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
my goodness whats goin on in here ...lol...i hear stuff about 4 head gaskets and shims to make a 383 crank fit ???? WOW......lol...it must be bed time or somethin well im gonna hit the hay before we start talkin about weldin the heads to the block so you dont blow headgaskets or something stupid like that..LMAO>...... :werd:
#14
TGO Supporter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Originally posted by OMINOUS_87
Uh lets not forget the obvious here.
Tossing in a stoker crank without having the block machied to hold it and you will never turn the motor over.
Now a stoker plate is just damn silly.
Buy a kit, do it right, what the hell yall smokin to hatch some of these half baked ideas???
Uh lets not forget the obvious here.
Tossing in a stoker crank without having the block machied to hold it and you will never turn the motor over.
Now a stoker plate is just damn silly.
Buy a kit, do it right, what the hell yall smokin to hatch some of these half baked ideas???
Oil pan rails need grinding as well. Mine did.
On a side not, i too, would like to see this stroker plate made.
#15
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
More on the "stroker plate"
On a side not, i too, would like to see this stroker plate made.
Hmmm....
Assuming a part like this actually proved itself to be functional / reliable....
What applications might it be useful for?
By a enabling builder to increase the deck height, it could allow the use of a piston with a taller compression ht, a longer rod, or a longer stroke than the stock block would. True.
But in fact, it's probably the least practical way of getting around the issues of inadequate deck height, considering the parts are already being produced to fit stroker cranks into stock blocks.
Unless a builder starts approaching the outer reaches of increasing the stroke, and isn't interested in investing in custom made rotating assy pieces. Or wishes to keep the taller compression ht/ longer rod combo.
Basically... A lot of knowledgable guys would argue that it makes no sense. Cause when you get into the really big stroker setups, parts hitting the sides of the block would become the limiting factor, anyway.
But still, if I had a machine shop, I might actually try the idea out anyhow. If it meant I'd be able to turn my 383 into a 406 by just swapping the crank.
(can a 4" crank even fit into a stock block?? ...I dunno)
The idea that really excites me tho, is an aftermarket tall deck alum block.
The 461 SBC is within $$$ reach!
As long as we're dreaming, might as well Dream Big!
Last edited by Streetiron85; 05-05-2004 at 11:48 AM.
#17
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Originally posted by Stekman
on side NOTE, there is no "c" in my name
on side NOTE, there is no "c" in my name
If I ever get a mill, I'll whip out a prototype and let you know how it worked.
I'm not gonna pollute FactoryFreaks thread anymore with my whacko mad scientist ideas.
#19
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mesa, AZ: Transplanted from Chicago, IL
Posts: 1,824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That would depend. You can buy pre-fitted 383 cranks with the mains already ground.
Thanks
#20
Moderator
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Littleton, CO USA
Posts: 43,169
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes
on
34 Posts
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
If it's being sold as a 383 crank, the mains have been turned to (or started out as) the 350 size.
You always have to clearance a 350 block for a 3.75" stroke crank. What the mains are ground to doesn't have anything to do with that.
You always have to clearance a 350 block for a 3.75" stroke crank. What the mains are ground to doesn't have anything to do with that.
#21
TGO Supporter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
five7 is right. By pre-fitted i meant a crank that has already been setup for 350 mains. That is all. It has little to do with block prep.
#22
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mesa, AZ: Transplanted from Chicago, IL
Posts: 1,824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tossing in a stoker crank without having the block machied to hold it and you will never turn the motor over.
Cant stuff a 383 crank in without doing this first.
#23
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mesa, AZ: Transplanted from Chicago, IL
Posts: 1,824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You always have to clearance a 350 block for a 3.75" stroke crank. What the mains are ground to doesn't have anything to do with that.
Without machining the block the motor will never turn over, for obvious reasons.
#24
Supreme Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Staunton,illinois
Posts: 3,067
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
LOL if you dont machine that block your gonna have a big problem real quick ...LMAO
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
theshackle
Tech / General Engine
4
03-05-2017 06:37 PM
mhatfield 14
Tech / General Engine
5
10-24-2015 07:48 AM