JesasaurusRex

iTrader: (3)

Well the title pretty much explains it. Ive been having this problem before. After the car warms up it wants to die out and well it will. Couldnt tell you if the cars over heating or not cuz I kinda messed up my temperature guage. But I just bought a brand new Modine Aluminum radiator, new thermostat and the water pump is fairly new, fan still runs so ya. If I let the car sit for a while (cool off) and start it again itll run until it wants to die again. How long inbetween depends on how hot I guess it is. No intake leaks I even took the manifold off and resealed the whole thing. Only thing that It could be is the water pump that im guessing even tho its fairly new. Its not seaping out the wheep hole but does it have to if the water pumps bad? All the information I can really give you. Plus my car leaks a lot of oil

ede

think i'd get the temp gauge working so i knew what was going on with the engine and go from there.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

starter solenoid getting too hot?

pasky

Ummm, the starter solenoid has nothing to do with the engine once its started...

phess11

could be the ignition control module. They will fail when they get hot. But I agree with ede on getting the gauge fixed first.

EYEROCK89

Are you getting any trouble codes?
The first time my car did this, it was the ignition module and connections. The second time, it was the EGR system. The third time, it was well...I don;t know, I haven;t been able to find the problem this time. I guess it;s like they say, third times the charm.

GASGZLR

i guess that most of these people didn't notice that you were running a carb conversion setup. Codes, HA! Anyway, what is your timing at, it maybe retarded a lot, OR your Edelborck carb maybe getting hot from sitting on the manifold and boiling out all the gas before it goes into the engine, I think it is called vapor lock. Just plain getting hot shouldn't kill the engine. The motor should run until it seizes if you let it.

JesasaurusRex

iTrader: (3)

Timeing isnt too retarded cuz I had it way advanced and retarded it a lil just cuz I thought I might have had it too advanced. WTF is the ignition module lol.

JesasaurusRex

iTrader: (3)

K guys I put my lil temp guage thing back into the block and when I unscrewed the old plug almost no coolant dripped out so im pretty sure its just over heating. Id have run it just to check but I just broke the 4th starter this week which I still donno y thats been happening. Oh wellz ill keep yawll posted thx guys, might just push start it to see if its the temp or not.

JesasaurusRex

iTrader: (3)

K not overheating still same **** going on DAMN IT. Vapor lock is what im leaning twoards now. What does everybody else think?

omcrider

Where is your temp, now that you put in a gauge, when the car dies?

Keith_Indy

Vapor lock sounds like a good suspect.

The old way of solving it would be to throw a couple of close-pins on the fuel line. Should act as a heat sink, and you might be able to diagnose the problem that way.

Didn't see what fuel pump you're running...

omcrider

Cloths pins on the fuel line won't do crap as a heat sink. ANy clothes pin you find today will be either wood or plastic and neither is a good source of heat transfer.

ruiterman

I hear a lot of talk about vapor lock. Did you check your spark after it dies and won't start?

It is either fuel or spark. Hard to figure out what the problem is if you don't know which of these to focus on.

I had an 88 Pontiac 6000 that would die after 15 or 20 minutes. I pulled a spark plug to check spark. Nothing. Let it cool for awhile, spark came back.

Once you know fuel or spark, then you can focus on the vapor lock or ignition.

JesasaurusRex

iTrader: (3)

...Spark Plugs have sat 4 a while. Ill get some new ones, I also got some braided fuel line so that should help with the vapor problem if that infact is the problem. Fuel Pump is stock TBI pump, using a FP regulator with it. Ill keep yawll posted.

JesasaurusRex

iTrader: (3)

K well got braided hose, spark plugs, still same ****. So after it did it, I yanked the main feed line again and turned the ignition on. Fuel came out 4 a second then it just stopped. So im 99 percent sure my fuel pumps going. I was just gonna get a Holley Blue and yank the in tank one out. My friend said it would be 2 much trouble and id be better off just getting a stock replacement and keep using my regulator. What do you guys think?

JesasaurusRex

iTrader: (3)

My friend tells me id be better off just getting a stock type replacement and keep using my FP regulator. I was thinking about going with the holley blue/red and just ganking the FP regulator all together. However he tells me it would be a PITA to do and I should just get another intank one. Would like to hear from people who have done a holley blue/red conversion and also if it truely would be a lot easier to get another intank one who knows an aftermarket company that actually makes one for a TBI car that flows a few more GPH than stock? Thanks guys been lots of help :hail:

Keith_Indy

Funny, that always worked on my fathers 68 Fury. You do want to use wood cloths pins if you try this.