GravyGut

OK, I have done a search and I know I need a new fule pump. I have two questions. ONE, on average, how much will it cost to have it done at an "honest'' local car repair shop? TWO, if anyboby out there has done a pump swap before on a car of my type, please list a step by step (please use detail) of the things REALY needed to do, and the tools needed to get it done. I will realy appreciate the effort of your posts! THANKS!!!

1988 Camaro 305 TBI

GravyGut

Thanks for all the input guys

I went and did it myself. Boy what a job. I had to dissaseble everything in the rear end, take off the tires, and drop the rear axel all the way. (put in new rear shocks while i was in there) Getting that gas tank out w/ that filler tube was a BIT*H! It took me 9 hr. in the rain and snow, but if I had to do it again, I would. A seccond time would only take me about 5 hr. , now that i know exactly what to do.
PART- $50
MONEY saved by not haveing it done fore me- $425

91GTABird

Alternative Fuel Pump Instal

Dirtbik3r

I feel lucky now. I'de just drop the rearend(using a car lift) and walla. Done -prob 2 hours not including fuel pump install.

azvolfan

I have had this done to both of my thridgens and it was @ $500 including the fuel pump. Sounds like a real pain in the but job.

GravyGut

Dirtbik3r , Why do you feel lucky, and how can you change your fule pump in 2hr. the correct way "walla"? Are you talking about a THRDgen.?

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Getting the gastank out in these cars is a pain in the ***. Maybe 3 hours if you can get everything to come apart smoothly, but no matter what, its still a pain.

What kind of pump did you use? Stock? Aftermarket? I went with a walbro 255 HP. Figured I might as well get the biggest one I could get my hands on.

rgarcia63

I made the cutout when I put in a new tank, Holley 255lph fuel pump, a used sender, AND A Barry Grant 10" fuel Filter Log.

I replaced the stock Siganaw type tube/hose connections with Pro Flex braided hose and -AN fittings.

I replaced my supply & return lines with 3/8" ss, and used a swagelok coupling on the supply line, and rubber fuel hose on the rest at the sender.

If the hoses rot, well that's why I have an access door.

Dirtbik3r

A car lift my friend... It's not a pain in the *** when you have full acces to the underneath of the car like i do. What I do is:

Get to jack stand, drop the rear onto it by disconnecting the tires, tqa bracket bolts(2 of them), lower control arms, panhard bar, shocks, and gas line, raise the car back up - and then work on the gas tank. When you have done things in the past on cars, it is so much easier the next time around. If I have 2 of my friends over, i can totally disconnect a rearend from a car and put it back in about an hour. The only tedious parts of the project is tq'ing everything back up. I believe the shock bolts tq @ 60-70ft/lbs, panhard bar around 70ft/lbs, tqa bolts 100ft/lbs, and lower control arms I believe are around 70 ft/lbs as well. But you have to tq the lower control arms and panhard bar when the car is sitting level on all four tires.

An impact wrench greatly reduces the time as well. If you do nt have one, I suggest getting a breaker bar ready at hand because your going to need it. IMO, the hardest part of installing a fuel pump is the rear end, the rest is easy. For a first timer doing this, deffinetely do not expect a 2 hour duration. I'de set aside a day. And what I have learned from the past, do things early because if you end up needing to go get a bolt or other part, you can. The autoparts stores neer me close at 5 or 6.

Anniversary-Z-man

iTrader: (2)

I replaced the pump in my '92 a while back. I bought the Racetronix kit....the 340 kit with the harness and all.
First thing is you'll want to drain the tank of as much fuel as possible....this is VERY important in making the job easier. Here's a step by step...please let me know if I leave anything out or if anything is unclear...I'm going off the top of my head here.

- support car on jacks and raise rear end and support it
- remove rear tires
- remove the gas cap to the tank to release pressure
- dissconnect everything from the rear but the LCA's....unbolt the shocks, torque arm, and driveshaft form the rear. Completely remove the PHB, upper panhard and unbolt the brake line distr. block from the rear end so it doesn't get crimped.
- slowly lower the rear end and allow it to slowly swing down to rest on the ground....while it's still connected to the LCA's.
- remove the springs
- disconnect the exhaust from some point....maybe at the collector, maybe at the cats...you may have to cut it and have it welded later. I was able to remove mine from the cats back in one piece. There are two exhause hangers...one on each side of the frame in the rear supporting each exhaust pipe exit tip.
- Remove the screws for the two exhaust shields from the car....one small one on the pass. side where the exhaust is routed over the rear, and the main one covering the gas tank.
- Next get a bucket handy and disconnect the feed and return lines for the gas tank located on the drivers side in the rear.
- I found it was necessary to remove the fuel filler door assembly and surrounding black inner piece around the neck. You have to get to it from the drivers side wheel well....so remove the inner wheel well piece.
-Now it's time to loosen the 2 straps that are holding the gas tank in place. You may want an extra hand or two to help hold the tank up...if it's been emptied it should be no problem.
- With the two straps removed, work the gas tank out from the car paying close attention to no bend or destroy the filler neck on the frame.
- Now using a flat head screwdriver and small hammer, gently tap on the round locking washer that hold the pump assembly to the tank...make sure not to bend the tabs.
- Now you can remove the pump assembly and replace it with the new unit and filter.

Continue on by reversing these directions to reinstall the tank, exhaust, and rear end.

Good luck...and take your time!
- Joel

GravyGut

That all sounds about right.I didnt take off the inner wheel piece, or disconnect the drive shaft, but every thing else was done. Like I said, To do it again wouldnt take but half the time.
I just threw a aftermarket pump (advanced auto) in, but now am wishing I had put a high quality one in instead. Something tells me I will be doing it again in the not so distant future.
By the way, I make parts at work for Swagelok, and thay insist on us holding tight tolerances, and purfect finishes. ( like .0005 tolerances / and 15micro finish)