vipershark11

iTrader: (6)

im porting my 601 head atm. i have completed all the exhaust ports and now ive done most of the intake ports. the only thing i i dont feel comfortable reaching in more to get the middle of the port which i cant reach from the intake manifold side and can barely reach from the valve side. so if i port the rest of the port but leave the middle section as it was would that hurt airflow? should i find a way to grind it out?

lukn4trbl

It depends on the port shape when you're done. Are you measuring the changes
on a flow bench at all? If so, how are you measuring the air speed in the local areas?

IMO, I'd leave the middle section alone and concentrate on the roof, roof radius
and port match the intake.

brodysZ28

make sure you get the valve guides rounded and no sharp edges too.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

The places that do the most good are the hardest to get to.
carbidebur.com
Get one or two 6" long shaft ones. ball end or something. don't get one with a sharp tip, it makes it harder to hit the valve boss.
Get the short turn really well, and the far turn. That and the valve boss are the most important.

vipershark11

iTrader: (6)

i can do around the boss and the boss itself easily just gotta be steady and go slow. but the middle where its just a little casting flash not even that bad would be the only non polished section i should call it. all my sharp edges have been smoothed over already, the intake manifold side has been gasket matched, and the bowls have been blended. i only have the middle and the boss left which im going to do tomorrow after work. but if you say leaving the middle be wont hurt me then ill just not risk my new valve job and do the boss and as far as i feel safe with. and no im not flow testing these on a bench or anything. theyre just gonna go on the motor.

vipershark11

iTrader: (6)

ok i finally took some decent pictures of my porting progress on my 601's. i have maybe an inch-2 inches max on the floor and walls that i couldnt reach thats undone but i dont think much to be gained from that. i got a little further in on the roof to cut and smooth a bump in the casting but thats as far as i could go. all the exhaust ports are finished and i now have 2 intake ports finished. also how do the intake guides look? should i make them more rounded in the back? i think the way they are now will flow well but maybe itll gain some if rounded off.

bowl blended intake port before any other work


finished intake?


both complete intakes


complete exhaust both next pictures

lukn4trbl

Everything looks fairly decent, however you'll never know if the flow improves
until you bolt everything up and track test it.

The back should be formed like a tear drop shape, not perfectly round.
I don't think you have enough material to completely form the ideal shape,
but it's not bad from what I've seen.

At least everything is smooth and blended. Looks good.

vipershark11

iTrader: (6)

cool man thats exactly what i wanted to hear. thanks for you opinion now im gonna go finish the rest like these. and yes ill never know flow numbers but i may dyno my car this year so thatll tell how well i did.

vipershark11

iTrader: (6)

ok ive got a finished head now. and ive got 5 more picture of my head thats untouched and some of the finished product. i just left both sides with a cutter finish not too rough not too smooth. i couldnt get all areas so i had to leave the tiny bit of casting on the long turned wall towards the intake port under the valve maybe an inch or so thats untouched and maybe half an inch or so on the port floor right before the radiused side under the valve. other than that i got a little further in than i thought i could so im content as is.

before exhaust port: (its all rust as you can see)



before intake port: (many obstructions of flow from corners to bumps)




finished intake port through the manifold side:

F-BIRD'88

You probably are using the wrong cutter in the guide boss area
Your guide boss is still huge. Looks like a big volcano blocking the port.
Shorten it (red line)
Widen the area between the guide boss and common wall.
(blue arrow)
This is the major air flow path around the guide boss into the cylinder.
Create two strong (wider) flow paths around the guide boss.
Thin and streamline the guide boss and shorten it more.
Most of this can be done from the intake manifold side using a long shaft
carbide cutter with a 3/8" cylinder shape,with rounded ball end cutter head.
A pointed cutter is useless here.

F-BIRD'88

Look at the contour of the guide boss's in this pic.
notice they are shorter and streamlined right down.
Notice the two strong flow paths on each side of the guide boss.
You need the carbide burr like this one with a 6" long shaft
To get at the guide boss shape, working from the manifold flange side.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

carbidebur.com
has cheap ones like that. Use the 6" cutter slowly, it'll want to chatter and dance like crazy.

vipershark11

iTrader: (6)

aww damn i thought i was done with it. guess ill have to bring it back home and get into it more deeply. thinning the guide like that wont make it crack when heat and pressure are applied? thanks guys.

vipershark11

iTrader: (6)

do you think what ive done so far will make a difference other than stock? and how much over that if i redo it like you say to? im kinda get worn out from this stuff now that ive done 2 heads only to keep 1 and i still have another to go.