Queball

Ok, iv had this rattle noise for while, iv replaced

1. Power steering pump
2. Belt Tension pulley
3. Removed the smog pump (it was bad anyways)
4. New water pump
5. New Alternator (was bad anyways)
6. New belt


The air compresser isnt the issue its new

the sound is coming from the lower end of the engine.

when i first started this project of locating the rattle noise i placed a
screw driver over the water pump n heard this sound, so i thought OH yay!! 20$ part...i was wrong.

i placed a screw driver n listen to the timing chain over n you can hear the rattle.

BUT BUT BUT!!

what if i replace this timing chain and the "RATTLE" still is there.
W...T....F is the rattle?..

im 99% sure its the timing chain iv seen countless posts of this
but..anything else i can look or listen to FIRST before i spend half my day
pulling apart the car to replace the chain.


this rattle sound you can hear at idle, when i rev up the engine a little n hold it u dont hear it any more.
its like the rattle fades in & out.. you hear it..then 10 sec later u dont..then you hear it..then u dont

Thanks

AlkyIROC

Timing chains don't last forever. A factory chain is quieter and has a longer life than an aftermarket chain but neither are designed for long life.

Put a timing light on the engine and watch the timing mark. If it jumps around a lot, the chain/gears are probably worn out. Even a new chain will jump around but the more wear they have, the more the timing will jump around.

If the chain in your 92 is still original, it probably needs replacing.

Queball

welp, i suppose imma replace the sucker..
least getting to the chain is easy, unlike side mounted engines where you have to tear apart half the car to get to 1 thing...lol

AlkyIROC

Getting the timing cover off is easy. Getting it back on is difficult. It's easier if you drop the oil pan.

Queball

yea sure as hell the timing chain was so loose im really surprised it didnt
just jump off the gears..lol..

i didnt need to remove the oil pan, the new gasket kit came with a rubber peice that was a U shape (well not exactly a complete U) i just cut away
the old rubber an added the new rubber to bottom of timing chain
no leaks..seated perfect..

getting the F#&*King Cam gear back on took me for ever i wrestled around with it for an hour..i was gettin pissed..lol..then took a break..came back
first try bam..mounted up..prolly got tired..had to lean over the car for to long i guess..

be easy to do now..lol..ty for the info

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

You want to make sure to not turn the motor over when that chain is off.. Ovbiously you need to line up the dots too or your timing will be way off. Glad you figured it out!! How many miles are on it do you think?

-Dan

AlkyIROC

Timing dots need to be both point straight up when the distributor rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire. If both dots are pointing at each other (cam gear dot pointing down, crank gear dot pointing up) then the engine is at #6 TDC and the rotor should be pointing at the #6 plug wire.

novaderrik

i once had a 78 Monte Carlo with a timing chain that had a timing chain with so much slop that it wore a hole in the timing cover where the chain kept hitting it. it had a weird tapping noise and a small oil leak that i didn't really care enough to track down because it was a $200 car.. when i pulled it apart to scrap the car and saw the hole in the timing cover, i had to pull the cover off to investigate. most of the plastic cam gear was gone but for some reason it never jumped time..

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

Im not so sure about this.. I have always had the dots pointing at each other with number 1 up top. I did a search and I see the way Ive done it 100 times and I see the way you described. Is there a reason for both/different ways? Im almost 100% sure on older sbc that the dots piont to eachother. At least thats how Ive done it and it works fine...

(edit) Yes, I just looked in my book and they are supposed to piont towards each other with number 1 up top.

What is this other way used for? I cant believe I havent heard of it before on a gen 1 or 2 sbc.

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

Ahh I c now... when the marks are at 6 and 12 for line up, you will still have to bring #1 up top to get her ready for the dizzy pionting at #1. If at 12 and 12, your #1 should be up top already. crank spins 2x while cam spins only 1x. Im so used to 12 and 6 and then I degree cam. and then leave her at #1tdc with dizzy at#1.

AlkyIROC

12 and 6 is usually used because it's easier to line up the dots. When at 12 and 12, the distributor rotor should be pointing at the #1 plug wire.

Many people have rebuilt engines with dots at 12 and 6. Dropped in the distributor pointing at #1 then wonder why the engine won't start.

With a 4 stroke engine, every piston will be at TDC twice during a complete cycle. If at TDC on the compression stroke, both valves will be closed and the spark plug is fired. If at TDC on the exhaust stroke, valves are in overlap and if the plug fires, no fuel is present to be burnt.

Once you determine if #1 piston is at the top of the compression or exhaust stroke, all the valves can be adjusted. There's a sequence but you line up the timing mark on the balancer and adjust half the valves. Rotate the crank one full revolution to line up the timing mark again then adjust the other half of the valves. Simple and easy and no guessing if any other pistons are at TDC when adjusting both valves on that cylinder. Your timing mark only shows when #1 and #6 are at TDC. If adjusting valves one at a time, how do you know when #3 is exactly at TDC?

Factory timing marks are also not 100% accurate. If you use a timing wheel and a piston stop, you'll find the timing mark isn't always perfect. An adjustable timing mark or timing tape can correct the timing marks. With timing tape or a degreed balancer, it's also very easy to set the timing before an engine is even fired up. Rotate the engine to the static timing desired. Lets say 12* BTDC on the timing tape or degreed balancer. Rotate the distributor so that the magnetic pickups are lined up and clamp it down. Although not 100% perfect, the timing will be close enough that you can fire the engine up and run it without fiddling with the timing to get it running.

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

Oh come on! Factory timing marks are too accurate..

Yeah, I dont know why some say to adjust one cyd at a time...
Its funny how some people think its this mysterious thing with adjusting rockers. Either its a compression stroke or not. Anyways, well said Alky.

-Dan

Queball

yea i just turned the cam gear to line up with bottom gear..
adjusted the timing a little with a gun..walla..done..

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

Glad to hear! Well done Que.