george88gta

So when I hit the brakes the rpms dip as well as the Volt meter. I'm assuming it's a short to ground somewhere. Has anybody else had this problem? I'm guessing it could only be the brake lights including the 3rd center spoiler brake light or brake switch on pedal . I took a quick look but didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. Can the break light switch fail internally? Any advice?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Vacuum booster internal leak possibly?

george88gta

Can you elaborate on that a little bit.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

https://drivecave.com/bad-brake-boos...%20stall%20out.

just a guess on your issue, a electrical short would blow a fuse or melt wiring.

george88gta

Why would the brake booster Put a load on my voltage?
I did just redo all of the brakes and it did feel like my booster it was working.

When I hit the brakes I lose about a 100 RPM and one notch lower on the Volt meter.

EDGE

It's not putting a load on your voltage. If it's leaking you're losing vacuum which is causing your engine to lose power, hence the drop in RPM which now isn't turning the alternator fast enough.

F-BIRD'88

Corrosion in the brake light scockets.

EDGE

Funny you mentioned that. My car's copper trace on the back of the cluster was corroded at every screw post. It screwed up all my indication. I was showing 8 volts when it was really 14.7. I cleaned them with sandpaper then all was fine

george88gta

that was a great thought so i went and pinched the booster line and still dropping rpm and volts

george88gta

I will check that next.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Brake light sockets CANNOT POSSIBLY affect the engine idle speed.

You're confusing CAUSE and EFFECT.

CAUSE = the engine idle speed slowing down when hitting the brakes; probably due to a faulty booster (vacuum leak).

EFFECT = the alternator speed ALSO drops, since it's driven off the engine, which in turn causes the VOLTAGE to drop.

Stop chasing ANY AND ALL electrical whatever. Find what's making the idle speed drop in the first place. Once that's fixed, the voltage issue will take care of itself.

Note please before you argue back, I am NOT saying "your brake light sockets are fine", NOT saying "your electrical system is fine", NOT saying "your brake light sockets don't matter", NOT saying "brake light sockets don't go bad", NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT. Don't put any of those words in my mouth, because I am NOT saying any of those things. What I AM saying is, brake light sockets CANNOT cause the idle speed to drop. What you are doing would be a little like walking down the sidewalk and seeing an elderly woman laying on the sidewalk turning grey, and looking for makeup to apply to her face to restore its natural color. That WON'T keep the little old lady from dying of the heart attack she's having that's making her face turn grey in the first place. Same deal here: EVERY BIT of the electrical whatever is an EFFECT of something else, and therefore dinking with the electrical system WILL NOT fix even the SYMPTOM you are complaining about (voltage drops when you hit the brakes) LET ALONE the actual problem, which is most likely a bad (leaky) brake booster.