Free Bird

iTrader: (1)

I intalled the HSR and 30# inj. the car started right up. No problems. Then I went to frive it (after I burned a chip for the 30# inj.). The car bucks like crazy, misses and pops (through the intake) untill I get up around 3500rpm. This is only when its warm though. When I first start it and go, the car drives great. Once it warms up, it gets ****ty. Do you think I put the distributor in one tooth off? Would that cause this kind of intermediate problem? I would think that my top end would suffer to, not just part throttle driveability. I did nothing else to the car. The intake and inj. I set initial timing at 6* BTDC.

Please help, the season is near and the car won't lunch worth a damn.

Ed Maher

Sounds pretty ugly. Off the top of my head, unless you did something really flaky like forget to put the CTS back on it i don't know what would cause it. Or, this will sound even dumber, but did you remember to reset the computer by unplugging the fuse for a minute.

Other than that, guessing probably won't help much, probably better off to get a scan tool on it and hopefull something will look obvioius. If you don't have one, if the weather holds out we could get together this week and use mine. I haven't heard that new cam yet anyway

JR305

I have never worked on TPI cars, but I had a problem similar to this with my TBI car. It ended up being a loose ground. I would go through and check to make sure all the grounds are on tight.

With my problem the car's tack would bounce around and the car would jerk to follow it. It would start with a few small jerks and progress to backfiring and popping. Only once the car got warm.

Free Bird

iTrader: (1)

I might have to take you up on that offer ED. Thanks for the speedy replies. The thing pulls to 6000 like nobodies business. I'm a little hesitant to push it past that. I tried to spray the 150 shot o it last night (bad idea) and the damn thing backfired so bad that it blew th intake elbow off, and the K&N (which I proceeded to run over ) and knocked a hood pin out. It was a little scary watching (and hearing) a big fireball try to come out of my cowl hood. :rockon: :rockon: :rockon:

Do you think it could be a bad O2 sensor? I know my car did some wack $hit before when that went bad, I might just replace it anyway. I tried to go up to Poorboy8's this weekend but stuff came up and we didn't get to scan it.

Ed,
Your definitely a lot closer than savage MD.

Ed Maher

Well, it could be the O2 sensor if the problem seems to jump out on you especially bad once it warms up. It might be trying to get into closed loop but the O2 is feeding it garbage.

As for the scan tool, from what i hear we're supposed to be back in the 60s later this week. If so i might be messing around with my car after work one night so it'd be no problem if you wanted to come by and have me take a peek. Drop me an email (ed@thirdgen.org) and i'll shoot you my phone number

Free Bird

iTrader: (1)

You got mail ed.
Thank you so very much. :hail:

Jza

Just for the heck of it, have you tried it with the stock chip? It'd run like crap fuel-wise, but may rule out any chip or programmed timing-related issues.

Free Bird

iTrader: (1)

I don't have another chip that has stock programming. I'm not sure if the craig motes stuff will work. The whole bypass thing. I've never tried it. Worth a shot though. I'll pick up an O2 sensor and some more spark plugs, they tend to load up from driving around town.

Ed Maher

What are you using for a chip right now? Why wouldn't the moates stuff work? Thats all i have right now, lol.

Free Bird

iTrader: (1)

No, no, I didn't say it didn't work, Just that I haven't tried it yet.
I seriously doubt that it would immprove though. The original programing was ungodly rich and on top of that the car used to be a 305 (19#inj.) Do I just pull the programmable chip out and try to start it like that?

SLP IROC-Z

iTrader: (1)

i had a similar problem it was my EGR valve, disconnect the vaccum hose from it and put a screw or bolt in the vaccum hose then drive the car see how it runs

JAY87GTA

Hey man, I think I know what your problem is. I've been going through the same problem as you as a matter of fact. Mine is a lean pop through the intake. I've got mine pretty well tuned out, but in order to do it I had to crank the FP all the way to 50. Then I set the VE tables up so that right at 800 and 50kpa there is a big valley. Seems to be working so far, just got a little farther to go and I think it'll be solved, it's about 90% better. What kind a vacuum do you pull with the 306 cam? I pull about 16 or so with the 305 that I have. Car runs like stink up top though!
Oh, BTW I'm running 18 degrees of initial right now with the AFR heads. Car seems to like it, but I'm waiting on some track time to verify my butt dyno. I did dial back the total to 32.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (2)

With what you describe (and gone thru the HSR
install myself 8-) I would say your REAL lean on
the Acell. Enrich (Tip in) and low VE. The HSR
flows so well, but low-end is seriously hurt by
the airflow and lost air velocity.

I had to take a bunch of fuel out of my HSR chip
in open-loop (cold start) and add alot in the lower
VE and AE tables.

Like Ed says, a scanner will tell the tale..

mike

8Mike9

Firing out the intake enough to blow the tubing off, is not a lean condition.

What's happening is that you're getting ignition (in one or more of the cylinders) way before the correct time and the intake valve is open.

Leads me to believe you have the timing curve way too agressive, or you messed up on the plug wire install. My guess is the plug wires. If the advance was too agressive, you should be able to hear some pinging/knocking.

I'm not trying to insult your intelligence, but sometimes it's the simple things that solve the problems.

JAY87GTA

Not to insult your intelligence, but if you go back and read his post, the only time it blew the intake boot off was when it backfired with NITROUS. Everyone else is giving him sound advice based upon personal experience with the very same product and problems.

JAY87GTA

Ed Maher

Hey Mike, you were totally right on. His pumpshot was way low. Just hacking in more AE was enough to make it driveable again with no bogs. Other than that, his low VE is/was way way fat. Pulled up to like 27% in a few places and it might still need some more right around idle. The rest actually seems pretty close though, didn't do too bad on my first cut.

Whats killing him now though is this. For some reason his car never changes BLM cell. So when he sits at a redlight, it sucks the BLM way down. And then, when he pulls away it stays in the same cell and is then way lean, and you can watch the BLM and INT furiously going back up to cover the lean spot. The ECM is just chasing it's own tail. I looked at the boundarys, and they are set normall. Does that mean there is something otherwise wrong with his bin, maybe a bad set of code or something?

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (2)

Verify that the ECM is in learn mode
(temp dependence)

If it is, you may need to rescale the BLM
boundries to better match a cammed motor
rather than the stock cam's vacuum boundries.

There may still be some VE tuning to do
and
programs like datamaster/vemaster would
help automagically zone those in..

mike

SMasterson

Ed, just a WAG but when messing with the canister purge settings in my PROM I got myself locked into cell 4 one time. Took me a while to figure out what I did. It's been discussed before on here. I believe the VSS can too but I don't remember the threads that well.

I also had to adjust the BLM boundries with my Sealth Ram and cc306 camshaft or it wouldn't use very many of them.

Ed Maher

About being stuck in cell 4. I didn't realize no VSS was a possible cause for that, because his VSS is indeed broken.

Beyond that, i'm getting frustrated with mlates software, this constant locking up **** doesn't cut it. I think i'm going to go ahead and get datamaster, and i guess vemaster rides on the output from that? That'd be sweet and surely an easy way to get things in order.

Bort62

Moates software doesnt lock up for me