Khamaro

Hi guys, I tried doing a search but cant find the exact answer im looking for so maybe someone can help...

I few weeks ago i sprayed the IAC ports out and the car responded better. So logically today i decided to remove the IAC and give it a clean, i did not seperate all the parts but instead carefully whiped it down and cleaned the visible part of the spring etc.

i put everything back together and figured it was a good time to reset the IAC. I followed the procedure exactly as posted by Vader in one of his posts. Now my idle is so high, in park it starts at 1000 jumps up to 1500 and creeps up to 2000. In drive it feels different as well and the shift points are different. When im idling in drive at the lights etc, its about 1200. I pulled the negative cable on the battery for 5 minutes and then went for a 20 minute drive at all diffferent speeds etc.

It is still idling high.... did i mess it up? should i have just left it alone because it always idled at 700ish and was running fine other than a slight misfire that only i noticed anyways....im afraid i opened up a can of works that i didnt need to. Thanks in advance for any advice you guys can give.

watajob

iTrader: (29)

If you used carb cleaner, you might have.

Khamaro

well I used MAF cleaner cause I figured it would be gentle enough and I sprayed carb cleaner on a cloth and wiped the IAC.

I read somewhere ECM could take few drives to relearn could that be it?

gmstrong

Take out the iac valve and pull out the spring alittle bite.

Martin Haberer

Sounds like a relearn procedure needs to be done due to the IAC counts being too high. Lazy IAC might take a day or two to reset. If you have access to a snap on solus, there may be a relearn procedure you could do with it.

ASE doc

If you didn't physically damage any part of the stepper motor, pintle stem, or spring, I doubt that you hurt anything. You might want to double check your connector pins just to be sure nothing is bent. It is normal for the ECM to take a little bit to relearn idle strategy. I don't think my Solus has any quick learn procedure for IAC reset. The base idle procedure that you did before is about it. Since you disconnected the battery, you would have to repeat the procedure. Or, just drive the car for a few days and see if it relearns on its own.

BTW, for those considering a scan tool for their 3rd gen, the Snap On "brick" has the same OBDI functions as the Solus. The Solus is a little nicer to use.

Khamaro

Hi guys thanks for all your help - thought i would post an update since not to many people post the solution after they have resolved the problem.

Ok so first i found that a vaccum hose had come unhooked so i plugged that back in and the idle came down significantly but not quite all the way down 2000 down to 1200.

So then i took your advice and i pulled the IAC again and moved it out slightly, plugged back in, went thru reset procedure again to see if that helped. After some trial and error and removing IAC adjusting it slightly up or down and plugging back (4 times to be exact) i i finally got the right setting.

Second part of the problem, was that some of the black plastic on the connecter had broken off so i may or may not have been plugging it back together the wrong way. I only noticed this because on the last time i pulled the IAC off did it had been sucking in way to much air, when i pulled it the pin was retracted all the way. We figured we had plugged the connector in backwards causing it to retract instead of extending, after figuring out the correct way the connector should plug in, i re-assembled it back together, reset the idle at 450, started the car to make sure it idled, turned off reset ECM and when i restarted again it idled at 600-700 rpm in park or drive.

All in all even though at first i regretted doing this procedure when i messed it all up, it was worth it. Now the car idles and drives the best it ever has through the entire RPM range it feels very powerful. I just hope it stays that way now...lol.............thanks for all your help guys.

gta_knight

just had a read through this post as its something ive never touched on my car yet, ive recently set the timing, and adjusted my new TPS to .54 volts but it still doesnt feel right.

im wondering if i do this IAC thing it might help, mine idles at about 600rpm when you first start it and it then after a little while i think it goes into 'closed loop' ? because you can hear the RPM's pick up and it idles at around 900rpm and sounds better, but when you stick it in drive and set off it feels like its struggling and theres a definite lack of power.

this problem started last year and ive changed the ign module, tps, its got new plugs and leads but still feels a bit off

ASE doc

Since the problem occurs in closed loop, think about your 02 sensor. I would want to use a scan tool to view data and diagnose the problem before I replaced any parts, but the 02 sensor is a pretty safe bet.

gta_knight

o2 sensor was put in brand new last september when i fitted the headers. I took it down the street and back today after doing the TPS and timing and it felt really nice actually, the only problem was its idiling really low when i stopped to turn around at the bottom of the street, was at about 400rpm i think

ASE doc

I would have to suggest that you either perform an O2 sensor test using a DVOM, or a scan tool. The scan tool would also let you see other data PIDs so that you might find a clue to your problem.

The O2 sensor test involves watching O2 voltage as the ECM goes into closed loop and looking for it to stick either low or high. Hold the engine at 2,500 rpm for 20 seconds and watch for O2 voltage to toggle steadily from .200-.800mv. Then release throttle and look for O2 voltage to drop low for a few seconds during decel fuel cutoff, then go back to toggling. O2 voltage should shoot high when the throttle is snapped, then drop low on decel. You should be able to force O2 high by pumping the throttle. If O2 voltage hangs low or high or does not respond as stated in this test description, the sensor may be faulty.