NowhereFast

Looks like I have a bad head gasket on my 305. My car has the dreaded peanut cam with an unbelievable .350/.383 lift. I'm wondering since I'm gonna be in it that far anyway, should I throw in a little bit of cam? Is it even feasible? I won't be taking the motor out of the car. Is there enough clearance to slide a different one in (with the radiator removed)? Do I need to worry about knocking the bearings out of place while i'm putting it in?

8Mike9

a decent cam never hurts, keep in mind you'll need to lower the front of the oil pan to seal up the timing chain cover...I never had good luck trying to stuff it in otherwise.

I know there is room, many have done cam swaps in the car in the 3rd gens, but for sure a cam install tool is out of the question...that said, I never used one, ...you just carefully slide, rotate, etc out, and same going in...just go easy and gently both ways.

Chances of nicking a cam bearing are way more likely (if you Superman it) than ever pulling one out.

little tip, lube first 1/2 of the cam...then lube as you go...keeps your hands in a tighter grip to keep it aligned while installing.

NowhereFast

I'm looking for a cam that won't require any computer tuning to run correctly. I know the LT1 cam is a popular choice. Where can I purchase a new one? Buying a used cam sketches me out, even though I'm aware that roller cams don't wear much.

Also, I'm sure new valve springs are a good idea. Any recommendations on what would work with the LT1 cam?

8Mike9

I know Crane made some computer friendly cams back in the day, possibly still do..I think they were called "Compucams" line?

No experience with the LT1 cam, might try the General Tech board, then also ask about if tuning is needed on the DIY prom board as well...or "when" it needed when changing cams.

Edit:

I might add, if you put a longish bolt in the end of the cam when installing it (removing as well) it will help you keep things in line coming out, and going in.

darbysan

LT1 cam works great. No computer changes necessary with MAF- it will adjust to it. Elgin used to make an LT1 replacement cam- I'm assuming you already have a roller cam, so re-use lifters, pushrods, self aligning rocker arms. Springs will be OK, but you could upgrade to "Z28" springs. Good time to do valve seals. Check your timing chain- just cheap insurance.

rusty vango

really!!?? a LT-1 cam in a otherwise stock 305 TPI motor?? even with the stock "416" heads? I would like to hear from someone who has done this .

vette9190

iTrader: (2)

I've done it. I've had the same LT-1 cam in 3 engines now. My original LO3 with the stock swirl port heads, then I had stock 416's on the 305 when I did the swap to tpi and again when i swapped to a 350 and just recently changed heads again but these are worked over 083 heads now.

rusty vango

did you have to do any mods? compromises? how did it perform? MPGs? more torque? more seat of the pants power?

darbysan

I did it to an '87 L69 305 with 081 heads ( same as 416's, but centerbolt). Block needs to be Roller Cam ready, if not already roller cam. '87 and up are Roller Cam ready- some '86's I have heard may be.

Car ran great. Seat of pants- at least 25-30 hp; higher revs. Best bang for the buck, after a rear gear swap ( IMHO). Mileage may have increased slightly- hard to tell ( I was having more "fun" with it).

rusty vango

true, 86s built late in the year got a few of the roller cam blocks, and mines one of them! and ,well higher revs ? I built my engine stock as I wanted to have a nice driver.got maybe 15,000 miles on it. and since stock TPIs are all in by 4800 RPM it may not be a good choice for me if it makes hi RPM power. im thinking about finding a cam that maximizes the bottom end torque TPIs are known for. so far, im just gathering opinions.

NowhereFast

I've done some more reading and heard it really isn't a major upgrade, and that you might as well go bigger. People seem to like the Crane 2032, and I think that's what I'm gonna go with. Major tuning isn't really required, just an AFPR, which I'm going to put in no matter what.

I'd like to replace springs, another might as well thing. What kind of upgrade are "Z28" springs anyway? I know the stock ones will work with the 2032, with a lift of .452/.465.

darbysan

If you want to maximize torque, look into the L31 cam. It is essentially the same as the "B/D" body LT1 cam. It is designed more for torque than power on the top end. Remember, it's job was to get a very heavy Caprice up to speed as quickly as possible. Most aftermarket cams will be focused on high end power, not torque. When I upgraded from the 305 to the L31, I left the L31 cam in place, and have been very happy with the performance.

"The L31 cam is the same as the B/D body LT1 cam which has the following specs:
191/196 duration @ .050" with .418/.430" lift and 111* LSA. Hydraulic Roller lifters".

When I talk about mine revving higher, remember I was moving from a Flat Tappet cam to a roller, so that alone would give me more rev capability.

The Z28 springs are just a little higher spring rate than the stock roller cam springs. Stock springs will do fine unless you want to race at WOT all the time. Since I had to change my springs anyway, that's what was recommended to me.

http://www.alexsparts.com/products.p...-.500-MAX-LIFT

eseibel67

I put an aftermarket cam in that was quite a bit bigger than the LT1 cam in a stock 305 TPI w/081 heads and stock exhaust manifolds. Minimal mods except mild intake porting, adjustable fuel pressure, and a 3" catback. Car has a MAF and runs GREAT with stock tune.

Comp Cams 08-302-8 specs: 210/220, .480/.480, 112 LSA.

I think the key here is that the cam matches the RPM range of the TPI. Mild intake duration with an extra 10* split on the exhaust side due to restrictive manifolds, lots of lift and a relatively tight LSA is a great combination for TPI. It has a really low grumbly tone at idle, and lurches forward with authority with the slightest touch of the throttle. Of course it runs out of breath higher up on the tach, but driving this thing is a real delight.

The only downside to this cam is that the exhaust stinks like an old musclecar at idle. It idles smooth and is never in danger of stalling, but it could benefit by some tuning here. I just never bothered because it runs so good.

NowhereFast

I thought stock heads were limited to about .470 lift? If the car runs great without tuning that gives me a bit more confidence in my choice of cam.

I'm curious as to how much your manifolds are holding the car back though. I'm thinking of throwing some Dyno Don headers on my car, because it seems stock exhaust manifolds will be a restriction with a decent cam.

Is the car you're referring to the GTA in your details?

eseibel67

Yes, this was done on the car in the profile.

It is at the edge of the limit on stock heads @ .480" lift. Used the recommended Comp Cams springs, retainers and locks. The oil splash shields were eliminated. On the exhaust side, the rotators were also eliminated and the springs were shimmed up .090"to compensate.

No doubt the log style manifolds are restricting performance, but stock looks and lower underhood temperature were higher on the priority list.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I could not wait to get that cam OUT of my Express van with the Vortec 350. No power anywhere!!! Put a production LT4 cam and 1.6:1 rockers in it and it woke up EVERYWHERE in the power curve. I have changed the cam twice since and settled on a 215/220* @ .050 cam ground on a 114* LSA. Pulls really well now.

On the L31 I built for my brothers shop truck, aka 1999 C1500 suburban, I did not let that factory cam come close to the engine we built for it. Used instead a 1995 F-car LT1 cam installed 4* advanced and 1.5:1 roller rockers. That truck with a volant CAI, ported throttle body, ported lower intake, 1 5/8" primary, 2.5" collector long tubes, dual 2.25" exhaust, 4.3 S10 torque converter, stock 3.73s and HPTuners tuned is a 5.3 eating monster.