zenish

i bought a rear out of a 2000 v6 camaro.i removed the cover and discovered it had richmond gears.after i installed it i realized it had a roar at speed and while turning.i could slightly shake the yoke so i think the pinion nut backed off.i took it apart and discovered that everything looks new except for the axles.i noticed that the carrier basically fell out when i went to remove it.it has one large shim drivers side and one large/several thin shims on the passinger side.i know the carrier is supposed to be press fit.should the crush sleeve be loose on the pinion if it was crushed properly?all the bearings look to be new timkens.im wondering if someone that didn't know what he was doing[like me]tried to rebuild this rearend and failed?ok.my pic files are too big and i don't know how to reduce them.

big gear head

The differential should be tight enough that you have to pull hard to get it out. If the bearings are new then it should have to be pried out.

The crush spacer will be tight between the bearings when the nut is tight. If you take the pinion out then the spacer will fall off. The pinion should not have any movement at all other than rotation. It should not spin free and if the bearings are new then it should have quite a bit of resistance.

dmh

That's what it sounds like.

The crush sleeve. With it out, the crush sleeve will just be loose on the pinion. It's there to act as kind of a spacer between the inner and outer bearings once the preload is set. If the pinion was loose while it was in the housing they didn't set the preload on the pinion bearings right.

I bet they just pressed the new bearing onto the pinion without shimming it, used the old crush sleeve and tightened it up. You can tighten it up and get your pinion bearing preload set but without shimming it right your pinion depth will be off.

If the carrier just fell out you're missing shims there also. Those shims are used to set the preload on the carrier bearings and the gear backlash.

Was this supposed to be a good rear end? Unless you want to put more money into it and learn how to set one up from scratch, I think I would try to get my money back.

zenish

i bought it because i wanted discs and didn't want to run spacers with my vette wheels.i assumed coming from a v6 car and being only 13 years old it should be in good shape.plus i have a newish zexal torson carrier to put in it.i got the 100 dollar rearend and the lsi front brakes off the same car.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Got some spare time on your hands ?


http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/

zenish

thanks.i probably will attempt to do it.problem is i got no garage and the weather sucks right now.

zenish

[QUOTE=big gear head;5692403]The differential should be tight enough that you have to pull hard to get it out. If the bearings are new then it should have to be pried out.

does anyone know the total shim pack thickness since clearly some of mine are missing?i have a few laying around.i could scavage the rear that came out for parts but id rather sale that since its also a 3.42 gear.

dmh

There is no spec for the shim thickness per-say. It's figured out while you set the rear end up. Your pinion depth, backlash and bearing preloads determine what shim thicknesses go where.

The link that vetteoz posted explains how it's done.

big gear head

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...axle-gear.html
You need to read this.

zenish

thanks.that was just what i was looking for.

zenish

i have several times.great article but it just said count the shims you have.the article vetteoz posted told me what i needed to know.btw the richmond gears i have have ground off spots with numbers on them.is this important?im still trying to get up the nerve to try this.i have a dial indicater and magnet.ive rebuilt a few engines that actually ran but this is different.lol .thanks again.

big gear head

The numbers on the pinion head are the pinion depth. This means noting if you don't have a pinion depth tool, which I don't recommend. The numbers on the ring gear are the backlash settings. You will need a dial indicator with a magnetic base to measure this.

I'll have to look over that post again. I was thinking that it was pretty complete. Maybe it needs to be edited.

zenish

i saw somewhere where to buy the best shim kit but i can't find it now.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

Good parts, http://www.ratechmfg.com/gm.htm and or, http://www.ringpinion.com/Default.aspx

big gear head

The Ratech kits are the worst kits on the market. Yukon is a good one, and Tom's Differentilas has good kits.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

Why did i know you would not like what i posted? I thought shims are shims.

stealtht/a

iTrader: (1)

I just finished my first complete diff set up using the above links. It seemed complete to me. I got the Yukon shim and bearing kit, seems top notch. You will be in a similar situation to me as I did not measure the backlash or preload before I took it all down and I replaced the carrier with a true trac. It means that you will need to spend more time experimenting with different shim setups since you know what you have isn't right.
You definitely need all the tools described in the "10 bolt by the numbers" thread. If you had more known values you could prob get away without some, but not if you have to do everything from scratch. In order to get the correct starting point for the carrier shims, I had to assemble and disassemble at least 10 times.

big gear head

Red Rock, I only half disagreed with you. I like the Yukon kits that you suggested.

Shims are not shims. The Yukon kits and Tom's kits have the super shim set in them. These shims have inner and outer pieces that lock together with thin shims in between. The outer parts capture the thin shims so that they can not slip out, and it makes it much easier to install them. They also have a better selection so that setting the backlash is easier. The rest of the parts in the kits are also better quality.

I have opened Ratech kits and had NSK, Timken and China bearings all mixed in the same box. They also sometimes use common hardware store nuts for pinion nuts. I've had problems with the ring gear bolts too. Over all the quality of the Ratech kits is just not very good. Many of the other brands are just reboxed Ratech kits. The Richmond kits and most of the other kits that Summit and Jeg's sell are reboxed Ratech.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

I forgot a "Lol" at the end of my post. I have only picked and chose some parts from Ratech.

big gear head

No problem. I needed to explain my views on the different kits instead of just saying that some are junk and some are good.

red rock

iTrader: (2)