How do you remove louvers/power blisters???
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Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,712
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From: Midwest City, Oklahoma
Car: '87 Z
Engine: 355 in the works
Transmission: 700R4
How do you remove louvers/power blisters???
My louvers are aging and I'm thinking about taking them off and sanding them smooth, then painting them with some flat black or semi-flat black paint. How do you remove them? Do they just pry off, or would I have to remove the insulation under the hood to get them off? I might replace my louvers with power blisters if I can find em for a good price...
if you have hood insulation, your gonna have to take that off. there should be plastic nuts on the underside of the louvre. Im sure you can take it from there
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*1989 RS
*Red, Daytona Turbo fiberglass hood, chrome 16x8 IROC wheels
*355 CID
*TPI ported plenum, SLP siamesed runners, Edelbrock high flow intake
*SLP 1 and 3/4 headers with 3 inch catback being installed next week
*Richmond 3.73, Auburn Posi
*Modded 700-R4, 2800 stall converter
*eibach pro kit and hotchkis sturt tower brace
------------------
*1989 RS
*Red, Daytona Turbo fiberglass hood, chrome 16x8 IROC wheels
*355 CID
*TPI ported plenum, SLP siamesed runners, Edelbrock high flow intake
*SLP 1 and 3/4 headers with 3 inch catback being installed next week
*Richmond 3.73, Auburn Posi
*Modded 700-R4, 2800 stall converter
*eibach pro kit and hotchkis sturt tower brace
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 0
From: Midwest City, Oklahoma
Car: '87 Z
Engine: 355 in the works
Transmission: 700R4
What purpose does the insulation serve anyway? I'm guessing it deadens some sound, and maybe in the winter keeps the engine bay a little warmer, but other than that, would I have to put it back on?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 0
From: Midwest City, Oklahoma
Car: '87 Z
Engine: 355 in the works
Transmission: 700R4
Ahh, just thought of that one. Couldn't it hurt the paint too if it gets too hot? Maybe whenever I clean the louvers or get power blisters I'll replace the insulation with that dynamat stuff for the hood...
i dont think you have to have the insulation. If your engine gets hot enough to warp your hood or damage your paint than you have other issues to worry about. I havent had insulation for over 2 years now
------------------
*1989 RS
*Red, Daytona Turbo fiberglass hood, chrome 16x8 IROC wheels
*355 CID
*TPI ported plenum, SLP siamesed runners, Edelbrock high flow intake
*SLP 1 and 3/4 headers with 3 inch catback being installed next week
*Richmond 3.73, Auburn Posi
*Modded 700-R4, 2800 stall converter
*eibach pro kit and hotchkis sturt tower brace
------------------
*1989 RS
*Red, Daytona Turbo fiberglass hood, chrome 16x8 IROC wheels
*355 CID
*TPI ported plenum, SLP siamesed runners, Edelbrock high flow intake
*SLP 1 and 3/4 headers with 3 inch catback being installed next week
*Richmond 3.73, Auburn Posi
*Modded 700-R4, 2800 stall converter
*eibach pro kit and hotchkis sturt tower brace
The insulation also works as a small fire retardant system. If there is a small engine fire the idea is those plastic plugs melt and the insulation falls onto the engine and "smothers" the fire.
I have heard of one person that actually had it work on his car. It also makes a descent sound deadner.
I have heard of one person that actually had it work on his car. It also makes a descent sound deadner.
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Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Even easier. Just get a RS or SC hood. Unless your aim is to have indentations that you have smoothed and painted as you describe. Then you are looking at a lot more work.
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90 RS Convertible
Owner: Top-Down Solutions
(626)369-0040
http://www.sc3gfb.org/members/lonsal.html
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90 RS Convertible
Owner: Top-Down Solutions
(626)369-0040
http://www.sc3gfb.org/members/lonsal.html
http://www.taskerinc.com/gs3/profiles/Lon_profile.htm
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