T-Tops: On or Off at the strip
T-Tops: On or Off at the strip
Okay, I'm not sure if this is the right forum, but there's a lot of info on T-Tops in this section (Thx, guys & gals)!
Anyway, does anyone know if it would be better to take off your T-Tops when running the 1/4 (less weight)? Or should you keep them on (reduce drag)?
I am considering acryllic t-tops, but have doubts due to the cracking, crazing, etc. However, I would like to reduce as much weight as possible for when I get around to taking the bird to the track.
If racing w/o the T-tops adds too much drag (ie: more than would be compensated for the lighter weight), maybe I will get a set of plastic t-tops for track only.
What do you guys think?
Anyway, does anyone know if it would be better to take off your T-Tops when running the 1/4 (less weight)? Or should you keep them on (reduce drag)?
I am considering acryllic t-tops, but have doubts due to the cracking, crazing, etc. However, I would like to reduce as much weight as possible for when I get around to taking the bird to the track.
If racing w/o the T-tops adds too much drag (ie: more than would be compensated for the lighter weight), maybe I will get a set of plastic t-tops for track only.
What do you guys think?
Yeah, but it's soooo hot at the track!
That's a good point, thx Nasty. I guess I'll have to consider el crapo (er, I mean plastic) t-tops. Well, if I only use 'em at the track, I'm sure they'll last.
Anyone know the weight difference between the stock glass and acryillic t-tops?
Thanks!
That's a good point, thx Nasty. I guess I'll have to consider el crapo (er, I mean plastic) t-tops. Well, if I only use 'em at the track, I'm sure they'll last.
Anyone know the weight difference between the stock glass and acryillic t-tops?
Thanks!
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: st. Petersburg, Fla
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: vortec 305 for now
Transmission: 5 speed
You don't want to run without them anyway, they are heavy, but do add some structural support. "some" is the operative word here.
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From: Texas
Car: 1992 Formula Firebird
Engine: 305CID (LB9)
Transmission: World Class T5
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt, 4.10 gears
I don't have actual weight numbers to give you. But I was actually able to compare a Lexan top and a glass one at the same time at the junk yards. I would have bought the Lexan Top except it was in bad shape and there was only one of them.
At any rate. The Lexan top was MUCH lighter. I am not sure how much you could possibly shave off of your car. I don't even think it would be worth it. But every bit counts right?
At any rate. The Lexan top was MUCH lighter. I am not sure how much you could possibly shave off of your car. I don't even think it would be worth it. But every bit counts right?
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From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
If you want the Acrylic tops for dragging get a set and use them just for that, then use your glass tops for every day driving...
They are interchangable, but usually the adjustments are differnt.
John
They are interchangable, but usually the adjustments are differnt.
John
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From: Severn, MD.
Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
I honestly don't think the benefits are worth the trouble. If you think about it, the rule of thumb is 100lbs. is worth a tenth in the 1/4. The weight difference of the ttops is maybe 5 lbs. You do the math. You could get a better gain in ET by just learning to drive a little better, or saving the weight in another area of the car. Put some skinnies up front, take out the back and passengers seat, take out the ttop bag and some of the trim pieces from the trunk. You can gain quite a bit by tuning up the engine too.....plugs, wires, advance the timing a bit, yadda yadda. Bottom line, don't worry about the ttops!!!!!!
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 182
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From: Ann Arbor,MI
Car: 1989 Trans Am GTA
Engine: LB9 TPI with L98 cam (Manual car)
Transmission: T5 5Speed/ 9bolt Borg-Warner 3.45 gears with posi
Hell the glass tops dont weigh a whole lot anyways. I cant see the plastic ones offering any advantage over the glass ones
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,238
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Republic of Western Canada
Car: 1986 Sport Coupé
Engine: 305-4v
Transmission: 700R4 and TransGo2
Without your t-tops on the car you are basically offering up a giant scoop to the passing air and slowing your ET by a bunch! Like the other guy said, it is like dragging a parachute behind you all the way down the track.
It is cool for cruising but just plain BAD for drag racing
It is cool for cruising but just plain BAD for drag racing
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL
Car: 89 base 'Bird
Engine: 507ci Caddy
Transmission: BOP TH400
Originally posted by MartinCadek
as far as I know any NHRA/IHRA track will not let you run with the t-tops off
as far as I know any NHRA/IHRA track will not let you run with the t-tops off
From my experiences at a road course event, convertibles or t-top cars were allowed to run w/ tops down or t-tops off only if they had a roll bar. Granted your aerodynamics are much better with them on, it sure makes for one hell of a ride with them off. Save your money and keep your glass tops...you'd probably pay as much as a set of power pulleys, which would give you more HP.
Oh, and just for the record: I LOVE my lexan tops (I'm probably the only one)
MILT
Oh, and just for the record: I LOVE my lexan tops (I'm probably the only one)
MILT
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