Alright, what I’m trying to-do is recolor my stock center console shift plate. I previously had it painted just like it was before but I had use acetone on it to prep it. This time I’m sanding it down completely to make sure the paint sticks. My question is what grade of sand paper I should use to make the surface look smooth with regular rattle can paints. The color I’m using is silver so I can’t use Krylon Fusion Paints. SO I need to make regular paint look smooth. I used 80 to get all the ridges (little squares) out of it, then I used 150 grit, what should I use next. Remember this is plastic so I don’t need a very high grade paint, but I’m also using regular rattle can paint.

Here’s what I’ve done so far-
-Stripped all the paint by putting aircraft stripper on it for 10 minutes
-This softened the plastic so much that I could get the top layer off with a razor blade
-Then I started with 80 Grit paper
-Then 150 Grit

 

600g wet. make sure to use a primer that's made for plastic .

 

yeah has to be meant for plastic

 

primer made for plastic?????
where do i get this?

 

I guess the best spray bomb primer would be the flexprimer. Just read the back of the primer can to make sure it's for plastic. Never spray paint w/o laying primer first(on any surface)!!

The grit of paper for surface prep depends on the type of primer....

 

thinner, acetone, varasol, wont remove teflon or silicon contaminants left by spray protectants......even tho you sanded and stripped it im guessing that you still may have a small chance that the new paint will still react and fisheye on you.

I got this stuff that autobody guys use on the outside of cars to wash them down case some waxes have teflon in them. I dont know the name of the stuff but go talk to a good painter he can tell you what to use. Its also sometimes hard to find. I had to use it on my rims,,because of overspray from the tire shine i use.

 

walmart has some 3M wax/tar remover. that can be used to prep the part(s). You are right, even finger oil will ruin a finish....

 

d00d i told you that i scrapped off the first couple layers of the plastic. When i put the aircraftremover stuff on it it softened the plastic and i removed a sh*t load of with with a razor. No need for anything else.

 

came out to be about a 3/4mm of plastic

 

any cheap paint will go on but over time itll just flake off only good paint use on plastic is krylon and thats not as good as automotive paint w/ flex agent or i call it flex hardner .

thats the best but id use some plastic bonding agent in aresol
and or plastic primer.

can be found at hardware stores, body shop supply stores or automotive stores.

should be able find em all at thoose places.

just ask someone

best bet auto body supply place lil more expensive tho.

autozone here has the plastic primer n bonding agents tho.

but i used krylon on mine works good

 

yeah i wlaked my happy *** the the local autozone earlier today, picked up some of their plastic primer, then i got some of their automotive silver paint. i also got the assorted supply of sandpaper, with all the other stuff i needed for the car(lock and cylentder for doors, light bulbs, and shop towels, and sanding brick(needed two of em).




shane

 

thats cool.

i had the problem of mine fisheyin and orange peelin bad when i painted it after readin this i knew why.

the **** in the armor all ****ed it up.

and i used some coleman lantern fuel on em and hot wash w/ soapy water still didnt work.

the stuff hes talkin botu i beleive he means prepsol

used for wipin off grease n wax fomr car right before paint

i hadnt thought of it but wished i had

i was goin use primer thinner but didnt and said there it wouldnt work either.

so id been ****ed still anyways.

dman wished i knew that prepsol woulda worked should have thought bout that.

instead i painted sanded primered sanded painted i was pissed and tired of even doin it lol.

but i didnt use plastic primer just auto kind and some fusion black paint

 

well it looks great so far, but it says it takes 5 days to dry completely and i just(5 min ago) put on the second coat of the actuall paint. The struff is very smooth and shinny. But it is orange peeling like regular car paint would. So i'm gonna go get some 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper tomorow and sand it down to where it needs to be in like 4 days.

I'm also gonna finish putting the door lick and cylender key stuff in. I got one of the new keys on but the passenger side cylender is being a bi*ch. I have a cut on my arm from when the vice grips slid off the metal and my car slit my arm. It stings like sh*t, but its cool I deal with pain very well. Just gonna wrap my arm in stuff for tomorow. Like a **** or something. DOesn't look like its so deep that i'll need stiches but its prety deep. About 1-1.25mm deep. If anyone a doctor please tlel me if thats bad. Its about 1 inch long too.


thanks,

shane

 

Would rubbing alcohol be able to remove it?

 

Good luck with the console....and you arm!!!

 

thanks d00d, since my mom is outta town for a few weeks, i couldnt even get to the hospital. When shes gone i have to goto a military hospital beucase that way al service is free.

 

I never used primer and it has never come off. its gets pretty beat up too.

 

this is the page i have it on
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/262789/2

 

cool, look good. Mines gonna be perfectly smooth thouhg. YOur seems to have not been sanded down or it orange peeled relaly bad to give that texture. I'm gonna treat mine like i would paint on the car. Wetsand it down after to make it look perfectly smooth. Gonna be really nice. The its off to the door panels.

Gonna walk my *** to walmart(7 miles) to go get some leahter from them tomorow. My mothers outta town, like i said, and it sucks.

 

u gonna repaint door panels or leather em since ya said goin get leather?

i would strongly advise againist paintem em less u find the right paint cuz i sprayed test arm rest on mine and it never dried stayed sticky w/ krylon fusion and friend mine done his seats n eveyrhtign in 99 cent black and stayed sticky.

they do got special stuff i only seen it at auto body supplys stores tho.

 

man yur amp box kicks ***!!!!
i love that bowtie bet was hard to do wasnt it?

and wered u get yur dash pad cover at?
that carpet dash mat?

 

well goto my car domain site and see how they came out with cheap paints,


http://www.cardomain.com/id/kidrcth

i'm gonna redo the fabric part of the door and paint thew plastic panels.

 

came out good i think.

i didnt sand mine down either.
the center console parts so they have the original textured surface.

i just done em to make em come back to life only changed color of the bottom part of consoule seen some cars w/ grey carpet n grey consoule sides looked good so i wnated paint sides mine to match my car which is red.

and redone top to make look better.

and instaled husrt shift boot cuz old leather lookin one torn n looked aweful

 

heres how it came out guys and the step i took for it.

Rough Sanded 150 Grit






Smooth Sanded 600 Grit





Final Finished Product




Hope you guys will try to do thr same beucase it came out awesome.

 

heres what it used to look like, just imagine what it will look like now,

 

nice color choice! THe wrong color and your in ***** land.....but you did good

 

ok i'm thinking it was a complement but what was the last comment about? Did i do something wrong or were you commenting about my fur?

 

I mean that it's easy to pick the wrong color. If so then it always looks like bucaki. You picked a nice color. Looks like you laid it on good and even. Now, you and PM have me thinking about doing something with the shifter plate!!!!

 

Well i just remembered this thread and the panels are in the car and i'll take pics tomorow. Then i'll post the difference, which is really large when you knwo what to look for.