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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 06:22 PM
  #1  
Mike89's Avatar
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From: Jeffersonville, IN
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Crazy Idea

Ok, I have what some have called a crazy idea and others have told me its no problem. Here goes: I totaled my camaro and I mean really bad; I was going down the highway and went to get off the exit when my rear brakes locked up. The car fishtailed a little bit and I caught the skid twice but the third time, I did a 180. The car came to rest smashed backwards into a tree and halfway on top of the guard rail. The trunk is just about non-existant, and the body is crumpeled up to about 2 inches forward of the rear of the door jam. I've come to the conclusion that the best way to repair this (other than junk the car and get a new one) is to buy a parts car (which I did), then cut the two cars across the floor about 2 - 6 inches rear of that big width-wise support bar that the back of the front seats bolt to, and drilling out spot welds where the t-top bar meets the windshield, then welding the the cuts back together. At this point, I'm looking for anyone who has done anything like this or can offer any suggestions as to the best way to go about this project (other than don't do it). I know that was a lot to read and I appoligize, but I would really appreciate any thoughts you might have.

The other part of this post is about finishing the body work. Since none of my seams will visable unless you can fit you head under the t-top gaskets or under the carpet, I'm looking to hear peoples preferences on paint and/or preping the car.

Again sorry for the book here, and thanks in advance for any feedback. I'll keep you all posted as the project progresses.

Last edited by Mike89; Apr 7, 2005 at 06:40 PM.
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 06:36 PM
  #2  
groundrat's Avatar
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From: Newmarket, NH
Car: 91Z28
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For saftey sake, Dont do it. If your welds and joints are anything less than perfect your car could snap in two and that could serously ruin your day. These cars are fairly cheap to purchase especially as an empty shell. Do your self a favor and start with a complete body. Just my $.02
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 06:51 PM
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From: Jeffersonville, IN
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Yeah, that would definately suck to be driving down the road and leave the back of my car in the middle of the road. Unfortunatly (maybe for me) I'm kinda stubborn, and since the welder who would be doing this has done race car welding and owned a machine shop, I'm pretty confident in his abilities. I do plan on putting some kind of strengtheners (incl. subframe connectors) in the car when its all done.
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 06:53 PM
  #4  
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yea dude, thats dangerous stuff your messing with
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 07:36 PM
  #5  
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From: East Haven, Connecticut
Car: 89 Camaro/ 02 GC Overland
Engine: 355 V8/ 4.7 HO V8
Transmission: T5/ 545RE
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.73/ Dana 30, Dana 44 3.73
heres ur next issure tho. inspection. in the great state of ct all totaled cars that are rebuit must first pass inspection. i work at a body shop and have gone thru the process a few times and its not easy. i can pretty much garentee u will not pass with two cars welded together. the check everything right down to the tires. ive had cars fail on bad tires alone. if i were you id get a solid body and then swap all ur stuff over. not only much safer but also much more legal. pm me if you want anymore info on what is required to reregister a totaled car.
matt
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 08:10 PM
  #6  
Mike89's Avatar
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From: Jeffersonville, IN
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Good point, however no one "legal" knows the car was wrecked. I didn't claim it on ins., and the only thing CT knows is that it needs to have emissions done and it doesn't have current insurance since its been dead for like 6 months.

Maybe I should rephrase what I'm really looking for - Whats the best way to align the two halves before I have them welded them together.

and also BTW the welds are normally stronger than the metal around them...if they wern't they wouldn't be racing funny cars and other crazy crap like that

Last edited by Mike89; Apr 7, 2005 at 08:14 PM.
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 08:20 PM
  #7  
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From: glenwood IL
Car: 85z28,
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Ok I have clip a car before. I don't know if u are a body man or not. But i am and have been one for 9 years. Done just about everything body wise to a car... I would never want to do another one again. Not that I'm worried about it comeing apart.. Its just to much dam work.... drilling spot weld for days,grinding ,cuting ect ect . no fun in doing this. Buy a new car and go out driveing. not sitting in your garage drilling spot welds over the summer. just my 2 cents
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 10:25 PM
  #8  
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Car: 1986 Trans Am
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what are you thinking?


this is one of the worste ideas ever posted here.


i mean....even "pimp my ride" deemed that un-safe.
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 11:01 PM
  #9  
Z28ricer's Avatar
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Car: 93 240SX
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Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Can it be done ? Yup
Safe ? yes it can be done safely.

Reasonably ? your out of your mind, the time, money and effort that it will require is nowhere near worth the chump change it will cost to get yourself another body.
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 11:23 PM
  #10  
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From: Amsterdam , NY
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: vee eight
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: 4.10 gears
do you have the welding skills? math skills?good measuring decices, and another car to get measurements off of . I mean you can do it , my grandfather has done two vehicles for himself about 15-20 years ago . i wouldnt have it done if you have to pay for it . but if you have the skills above and the time i think you could do it.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 12:41 AM
  #11  
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From: Boscobel, Wisconsin
Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4 w/ about 7500 miles on rebuild
*Hits 18inchboyds w/ a stick* Dont encourage him... We dont need to hear in six months how some crazy thirdgenner's back half of the car twisted off at 80 MPH...
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 02:10 AM
  #12  
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Axle/Gears: 3.42 / 3.42
I say he get a parts car, and transfer everything good from the wreck to the parts car and spend the time fixing up the parts car, then scrap the wreck. Just my two cents.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 07:14 AM
  #13  
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From: Amsterdam , NY
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: vee eight
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: 4.10 gears
hahaha, ahhh, that stick hurt ,ahahaha . lol. thanks for the early mornin laugh.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 10:22 AM
  #14  
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From: Jeffersonville, IN
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Ok guys, now in my original post, I did say that I already had a parts car, and I understand the concern, but It's not a question if should I do it or not. Does anyone have any responses to the second part of my Q about the prep for paint and type of paint and how many coats of what to make it look really good when it comes out of the paint shop?

18inchboyds - I don't personally have the welding skills, but the guy who will be helping out w/ this does. I do have the math skills and like I said, I do have another car for the measurements.

Just my .02 - everyone who's knocking the idea I appreciate all your input, but look at how many custom cars there are out there. How many 32 ford coupes and other hotrods have you seen that are stock and not all cut up and welded back together?

Rabbitt - Ever seen a custom tubbed out race car "fall apart"? - How much more stress does a race car take on than a street car?

Megaracerx2 - That car was put together w/ that hardware store crap fake weld stuff and like scotch tape. Plus, Pimp my ride is cool and all, but they are pretty much audio and bondo guys. If you want to watch a real show, check out Overhaulin' or Rides

p.s. I'm not tryin' to **** anyone off or tell anyone off, so if it seems like I am I appoligize.

Last edited by Mike89; Apr 8, 2005 at 10:26 AM.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 10:39 AM
  #15  
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From: missouri
Car: 91 Camaro RS 383
Engine: carbed 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
If you have a parts car why dont you just swich everything over to that?? Our cars are unibody, so strength is an issue. Race cars and 32 Fords have frames so they are stronger.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 11:03 AM
  #16  
Mike89's Avatar
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From: Jeffersonville, IN
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Theres just something about my car that I can't let go...maybe its the knoledge that when it's all done, it'll be MY car as in I built it, and I know everything about it...I don't know its hard to explain. Any clues on the best way to align everything?

BAD91CamaroRS - The thing about the unibody is definately true. I know that subframe connectors have a big part in strengthening the unibody, but I don't really know how far they will go. Is there anything you can suggest to strengthen my car other than a complete new body?

Last edited by Mike89; Apr 8, 2005 at 11:07 AM.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 11:08 AM
  #17  
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From: Gainesville, FL
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Engine: 305
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I don't anyone is going to help you because it is a stupid and dangerous idea. Just do what everyone else has said and transfer over all the good stuff to a solid shell.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 11:16 AM
  #18  
Rabbitt's Avatar
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From: Boscobel, Wisconsin
Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4 w/ about 7500 miles on rebuild
was just jokin around.. good luck, just dont spend too much money
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 11:16 AM
  #19  
Mike89's Avatar
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From: Jeffersonville, IN
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Alright no need for the attitude, I give in, you guys are right - How bout if I change this to a thread asking people's opinions on paint and prep for the new SOLID body of my parts car that will now be my new car.

Thanks Rabbitt
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 11:23 AM
  #20  
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: T56
Sorry if I came out sounding like I had an attitude, I didn't mean it like that. I think you will be a lot happier going with using one whole car, rather than trying to cut two up.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 11:25 AM
  #21  
Mike89's Avatar
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From: Jeffersonville, IN
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Its cool man - thanks
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 11:55 AM
  #22  
devianb's Avatar
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Car: 1988 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
I think thats a crazy idea, but not impossible. I wouldnt risk my saftey for it.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 10:50 PM
  #23  
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Car: 91 firebird
Engine: undecided thinking 383 stroker
Transmission: ??????????
i agree with everyone else

GET A NEW COMPLETE BODY

but and this is a big but if you must do it measure 3 or 4 times cut and weld once and once only

and for safty sake take it and get it inspected

if you dont that says something about your confidence in your weldind and fab skills and you should not attempt the project in the first place
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 11:13 PM
  #24  
Rabbitt's Avatar
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From: Boscobel, Wisconsin
Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4 w/ about 7500 miles on rebuild
lol, he said he's gonna do it our way! lol, no need to keep telling him to stop!

JeffW has done an amazing job, so listen to him.

I'm planning on painting my car next month.. I would suggest going to search, put in JeffW in the part for the user name, and find all of his threads (make it sort by poster, too) and read the ones about painting..

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hlight=project

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hlight=project

and i've gathered up some info from the guys on here on my own thread

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=265806

Hope some of this will help u.. i'll be posting progress pics when i gets started...
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 12:07 AM
  #25  
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From: ohio
Car: 91 firebird
Engine: undecided thinking 383 stroker
Transmission: ??????????
didn't know he was gonna go safe with it but i am glad to hear that he is

instead of 2 3rd gens in the scrap heap its only one

sorry dont mean to pour salt in a wound

good luck though
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 01:51 PM
  #26  
Mike89's Avatar
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From: Jeffersonville, IN
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Yeah, I checked out Jeff's posts, that is an amazing job he did. The only thing is as much as I would love to paint my own car, it's just not all that practical. Does anyone have any brand loyalty or does it not really matter? I've heard good things about single stage paints, but I've also heard that if you want a really good, smooth, deep finish w/o orange peel, then if should be in many coats. Expected price range if I buy the paint and have a shop put it on??? I'm not talking about a show car paint job, just something thats gonna look hot but still not be more than like $3-5k and thats WAY more than what I would like to spend, but I'll do it if necessary.
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 03:00 PM
  #27  
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From: ohio
Car: 91 firebird
Engine: undecided thinking 383 stroker
Transmission: ??????????
whatever you do use the same brand and suggested line for your primer and clear

good luck and i hope your car comes out teeties
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Old Apr 10, 2005 | 09:29 PM
  #28  
Mike89's Avatar
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From: Jeffersonville, IN
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Thanks Jojo and everyone. I don't want to beat a dead horse here but what about the diff. between single stage and multi? I'm still REAL new at all this stuff - the biggest thing I painted for my car was the H2O pump when I replaced it and that was w/ spray paint.
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Old Apr 10, 2005 | 09:56 PM
  #29  
jojo22's Avatar
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From: ohio
Car: 91 firebird
Engine: undecided thinking 383 stroker
Transmission: ??????????
that depends on what u want out of your car

if you want it to look nice and drive it everyday there is nothing wrong with a single stage

if you want to have a weekend warrior that might puck up a couple trophies at some shows i would deffinatly go with a 3 stage paint

GOOD LUCK whatever route you take i'm sure it will look good
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