i m installing a hurt v-matic in my 92 Z-28, and i need a wiring diagram for the neutral safety switch, where do i find it?

 

You can either purchase a Haynes Manual (about $20 from Pep Boys, Advance Auto, or Autozone), purchase a Helms Shop Manual on-line (about $150), or call your local Chevy Parts dealer and ask if they can print you out the electrical diagram that contains the ignition/starter circuit and the ECM circuit. I'm not sure because I have an 89 Firebird Formula 350. Good luck!

 

yeah, no manual shows this diagram, i think online manual is the only way to go. i know of someone who has mitchell1online. i might ask when i get my truck back from Mike Dougherty Chevy, its a 69 blazer w/ a 89 350 tpi.

 

Here you go

 

My Haynes, Chilton and Helm manuals all have it.

 

So now the question is, do you tie in both the starter circuit and the ECM circuit to the microswitch on the new shifter. If so, you have 2 wires tied in to each terminal of the microswitch.

Do any of you that have aftermarket shifters recall how many wires go to the microswitch terminal?

 

It may not be important to you, but the power from the hatch release button is wired through the neutral safety switch, as well as a hidden s.p.s.t. relay. When I wired in the starter-interrupt (from the alarm), every time I hit the hatch release, the starter would turn. Had to do some creative re-wiring to fix it.

ALSO, part of the work that I did, put a 30 amp relay between the keyswitch, and the starter. The starter now gets power from the battery, rather than lesser amperage through the keyswitch contacts. The keyswitch contacts may also last longer, because we are talking about many amps.

Seth

 

The starter motor is already wired directly to the battery. The Starter switch only carries current for the solenoid windings. There are high-current contacts in the starter to switch the motor current on when the bendix is extended, making a sort of built-in relay.

 

Besides creating a way to interface the alarm to the starter, I have protected the keyswitch from further pitting. The manufacturer has no right to put such a burden on a hard-to-get-to item.
Also, the factory wire from battery to fusebox is sort of wimpy.
I already knew that the real hi-amp 'relay' is within the solenoid, but you do know that the solenoid itself draws many amps.

Seth

 

DUDE, KLORTHO thank you so much, i have been looking for weeks, i actually found it the haynes but its unreadable. my shifter will be done within the hour now that i have that. thanx again

 

You are welcome