ok....so when is the tech article going to be fixed?! Why is it not working? I remember seeing it a long time ago but I forgot to print off the page. Does anyone have the article that they could post so I could just print it. I have done some searches with no luck.

 

I have a little help in my post, not much but you should be able to figure it out from there https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...ther-misc.html

 

Ok, so by looking at deadbird's photo, does that mean I have to unscrew the back half off of the window, then break all of the glue? After that it doesn't look like there is much room to move it up and re-bolt it on.... Also, I allready tried to loosen the hinge bolts and slide the hole hatch up, but it only gave me like an 1/8in. Does anyone know what to do?!

 

What I understand to do is that you take the plastic trim off of the underneath side of the hatch then you will see the bolts that the back part of the hatch bolts to. IT is like 2 halves, the metal part you see from outside then the part you see from under that trim panel. You take out all of the bolts underneath and pull the halves off and clean them up...then reapply the urathane sealant and bolt the halves back together and adjust them to where you need them and tighten the bolts back up....Thats how I understand it anyways

 

will I also need to take off the air struts? From looking at that pic from the other thread, it looks like after the top half is unbolted and pulled off there is really no room for adjustments....maby its just the pic. I dont know. My car is at an autobody shop right now getting painted and the guys said that all you have to do is loosen the hinge bolts and move it up (as previously stated that didn't really work). I knew there was another way so I am trying to get all the instructions so I can just print them off and give the info to the guys.

 

If I actually get time to go out there I will get some instructions up....the guys at the body shop are dead wrong the adjustment is in the back part there. You do have to take off the struts I think they mount to the plate. I think its the constant pressure of the struts that actually push it back and out of alignment.

 

Slick88 has it right on how to adjust the rear hatch panel.And the hatch struts have to be disconnected before you unbolt anything.If you don't they will be working against you.Working to adjust the hatch alignment is a 2 person job(to do it safely and lessen risk of glass breakage).

 

Is there a certain torque spec for the fasteners? I dont want to tighten it down too much and break the glass, but dont want it to move around.....

 

I wasn't in much condition to give a detailed responce in slick's post.
Not much better tonight as I'm about to pass out from being tired but, I'll try to elaborate a little.

If you search for this topich, you'll find alot about trying to realign the glass at the hinges. Neat and all but, it changes the body line gaps doing so.

(kind of a cliffnote version...)

Removing the decklid interior trim will reveal what needs to be unbolted and also show the plate the holds the glass to the lid to the struts.

The adhesive is an asphaltiic type.. similar to older car windshields ('rope' seal.. 3M makes it also can be gotten at autozone in a 15' length)

Lay some tape on the rear glass and mark the current hatch position.

Take a measurment of how far the dech sticks out.
-This is how much the dech has to be moved

Use that measurement and mark a new line on the tape (where the deck will be realigned to)

Remove the struts (suggest having a helper unless you are strong) and prop the hatch open a foot or so.
I used a cardboard box to dit my hatch on.

Remove deck.

Clean the crap off.

Reapply sealant of choice.

Bolt together in right location. There are nylon washer/grommets to keep the glass from getting pinched inbetween metal, you'll see what goes where during disassembly.
Tightness isn't a huge issue as the rear glass is tempered glass. It takes some effort to break it. for your peace of mind though.. Helms states 11ft/lb

Let it sit for a few hours before reattaching the struts to allow the adhesive of choice to set up/bond.


Deck hieght is a latch/pull-down bumper issue unrelated to the deckid alignment.

(ignore any grammer as I'm fighting sleep)

Clear as fog now huh ?

hth

 

Yep thats a very good explaination, thanks bud...on the adhesive I have the urethane in the tube with the caulking gun, can I use that?

 

Thank the [pwers that be for the internet wayback machine...

Here is the Hatch Alignment 101 article...


http://web.archive.org/web/200406061...tchalign.shtml

 

damn that works too....how did ya find that

 

i broke the hatch glass on my car following the instructions from that article.
DO NOT PUT ANY PRESSURE ON THE GLASS ITSELF. it might also help to look into heating the sealant between the glass and deck lid to make it more pliable and easier to get off

BE DAMN CAREFUL!

 

The tech article clearly states hazzards in the steps and the potential for breaking the glass.

Tempered glass is a very tough glass. It's weak points lie in it's edges and flaws (eg: scratches, chips) along them.
If there is a flaw arond the original decklid mounting hole, be quite careful.

I torqued mine well beyond the service manual w/o casualty but, my glass was in good shape.

If I were to do it to my camaro the same way... the result could easily be different.

 

Awesome! Thanks Deadbird!! That article is pretty much what I was looking for. Very helpful! If there are any other precautions you guys think I should take before attempting this, please let me know.

 

I think the glass is really the only part thats possible to mess up on, he hit the nail right on the head with the facts about tempered glass