Im doing the poor man's paint job and i need to no what wet sanding is?



Also Is this a good checklist?,

any familiar with the Poor mans Paint job this is a good list of what to do?

1. Buy rollers and paint
2. tons of prep work like sanding,(to bare metal?)
3. One Coat
4. Wetsand after 8 hours
5. second coat
6. Wetsand after 8 hours
7. Hopefully enjoy my work?

Thanks A ton,
Neil

 

Is this the "use foam paint rollers with rustoleum paint and tons of paint thinner" ??

 

I don't want to sound like a jerk, but based on your "checklist," I would pay somebody to paint your car if you want to be happy.

What equipment/tools do you currently have to work with. I don't know the current condition of your car but if you just plan to paint it and do nothing else, you can do what body shops call scuff and shoot. I would use a DA sander with 600 grit paper for the majority of the car and a red scotch brite pad for the hard to reach areas. You then can clean the car really well and shoot your paint. If you do not have an air compressor that puts out at least 15cfm, your paint will not look good and MUCH wet sanding will be needed.

Explain what you have to work with and we'll go from there.

 

there is no reason to wet sand each coat of paint. you do not seem to know what your doing in this area(no offense meant towards you) but if you want it to look ok, save till you can aford to have it done right. if you are not concerned how it looks do what you like but if you are not spraying the car the right way or know what your doing dont waste the time even thinking about wet sanding it. but what i do is lay my coats of paint, lay the clear on heavy and heavier if there are little imperfections in the painted surface. then wet sand the clear till its smooth as glass

 

Come on guys he just asked a question. It's his choice on what method he wants to use to paint his car. Anyways, your checklist is ok but this is what I got when I read the whole thread on painting with the rollers.

Materials
1. Paint. Use tremclad which is acrylic/enamel paint. It is called Rustoleum.
2. 4" professional foam rollers. (white high density rolllers)
3. Mineral Spirits (to thin the paint)
4. Don't get paint shaken the enamel should be stirred to avoid bubbles
5. Get paint and thin with mineral spirits so it's as thin as water, just a little thicker

Technique
1. Prep car. Get rid of all rust and anything else
2. 2 coats of paint then wet sand whole car with 600 grit
3. 2 coats of paint then wet sand whole car with 800 grit
4. 2 coats of paint then wet sand whole car with 1000-1500 grit
5. Polish and wax car

Leave paint to set about 8hrs before giving it another coat.

 

Seriously im not looking for 10,000$ results im looking to have a good time with my dad and freinds and have a lerning expeirence.... Thanks



so is wet sanding just wetting te car down then sadnding

 

yes, wet sanding is wetting the sandpaper and the surface being sanded with lots and lots of water. as dust and other things build up you need to rinse the area with more water. just use lots of water.

 

Check out this article for wet sanding procedures/techniques

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/926/

 

wetsanding is for fine sandpaper. 1500 and up. We have never wetsanded with anything smaller.
Also the only thing we have ever wetsanded is the primer, and the clearcoat.

 

wet sanding is NOT for only 1500 and up. the purpose of wetsanding is to keep the sand paper from clogging so you get a better finish. And if you are going to spend all that time to wetsand your car, paint it the correct way or there is really no point in doing the body work cause it will look like crap if you use a roller.

 

Hey man, good luck to you. If i understand correctly, then you just keep the surface wet enough that the paper doesn't feel like it is "Grabbing".

I will be doing this same method on my marro in a month or two. Good luck, let me know how it works for you

 

Keep the surface AND the paper wet. Use a spray bottle filled with water to rinse the paper frequently to wash off the residue from the paper. Use an ACRYLIC enamel for the paint (the standard rustoleum sold at Home Depot is an oil based paint and IS NOT the same as Tremclad).

I painted my son's S-10 pickup this way, and would recommend you skip the wet sanding steps if you're happy with the way the first two coats look. The enamel can be a PITA to polish back to a shine after wet sanding.

 

Is it okay to paint in the cold? im am in my garage but it is extremely cold out

 

Well i know when spraying a car you arent supossed to paint anything under 50 degrees. I would geaus it is simular with rustoleum.

 

I feel like repeating myself lol

Where do I start? Rustoleum? Why? If you want to spray on the cheep then hit your local Car Quest or other Dupont dealer and get a gallon of Fleet enamel. $40-50 and it's ready to spray. If you add a hardener to it you can even wet sand and buff.

Next, Cold will effect any paint you use. Above 60 is the best bet.

And last, before you paint anything you need to scuff the entire car down with at least 320 grit paper to give the paint something to stick to.

 

I used rustoleum on my car, (only in little spots though), when above 60 degrees it comes out pretty good, when below, it comes out horrible.

 

After 148 posts, I would expect you to understand that
seriously talented gearheads, and serious gas-bags frequent
this board. (One can only speculate about the ratio...)

If you're serious about this, let me add a small bit of advice
to all of the above.

Whatever you wind up doing, restrict it to one panel, like the
hood. That way you can find out just what a wonderful
experience it will be, and whether you like the results enough
to do the rest of the vehicle that way. However, it will only take
about a year of exposure to normal weathering, to justify
the price differential between automotive paint & anything else.

Good luck, & keep us posted.

 

You need to chill, im painting it over spring break i am rolling it alright and anything i do to it will make it look better theres a billion gallons of bondo on the car, so i will do lots of sanding,

So by repeating more coats they will add on to each other so that eventually when you rub your nail on it it wont scratch the paint off or am i wrong, how do you prevent that a clear coat?

And the sanding in between the coats also helps the paint stick and help that protection?

 

Do u have any tools? U should buy a book on doing bodywork and paint. There is just to much stuff to do for anyone to type up on here. When i painted my first car I used xorust thinned out. But i went out and bought a cheap commpressor and cheap gun ( maybe 200 bucks for both) It turned out ok for what it was. But look online i have a book more on the paint side of things. By don taylor & larrt hofer Its really out of date todays painting. But would help u out alot.Also it has alot of safety tips

 

if your not going to car what it looks like and you just want it to be better than it is now, then just go out sand it nice and smoth, tape it off and buy some pray can paint, coat it, let it dry coat it again, and repat with some cheap spary can clear coat. this procces there is no need for wet sanding.
and this will only last a summer, but only cost $50 or so, and will look better than now.


other wise if you want a "real" paint job, go to a body shop, and ask them becuase you dont seem to know enough, no offense. maybe you could work out a deal or something with them.

 

i agree with jay, if you go to a library you can check out a book on body work that will cover everything you need to know, then consult here for any holes. to the issue of wetsanding my understanding is that it's ideal to have a constant flow of water over the area being sanded, and no you should not spray your car in the cold, i think ideally it should be over 70 degrees, but double check in a book.

 

I did this and i was really pleased with the first coat results like you said i only did it on the hood to see if i would like it but now im going to continue, but technically speaking what does wet sanding do?

 

keeps the real fine sandpaper from being clogged.

 

But what does sanding inbetween coats do?, How does it help the paint?


By the way i am so impressed with my results il post pics

 

http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g68/xbox360nm/

Look in there you can see photos of before and after.

Looks alright considering that i paid 25$

 

link doesn't work...and i wanna see this

 

Here are my WIP pictures

This is The side of the car before paint and work
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...m/HPIM3378.jpg
This is the other side before paint and work
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...m/HPIM3380.jpg
This is the hood before paint and work
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...m/HPIM3381.jpg
This is the back
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...m/HPIM3379.jpg
This is hood on the third coat
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...m/HPIM1011.jpg
This is the side(there really isnt spots like that i dont know what those are)
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...m/HPIM1014.jpg
This is the side also take bad
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...m/HPIM1013.jpg
This is the Back
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...m/HPIM1010.jpg

Like i said before im still working im actually going to wetsand right now.
Open to comments and suggestions

 

what it does is too level out the coat that you are sanding and remove any
nibs in the clear coat or the paint.....

 

honestly that doesnt look too bad at all post more pics once your done wet sanding and out in daylight

 

What are those two really big bubbly spots on the front of the hood?

 

Find the Poor Man's Paintjob thread and read it THOROUGHLY! It will explain everything.

Yes, you need to wet sand between EACH coat. Start with lower grits and work your way up. Also, try adding a little dish soap to the water to increase your lubrication.

I'm afraid those might be runs from the creases in the hood. Maybe try less mineral spirits?

 

Noo, that shitty *** bondo i didnt really take care of too well, could of sanded it down way further

 

well i know it may sound like a pain in the *** but personaly i would redo the hood or that part of the hood because that would drive me insane seeing those spots on the hood like that

 

I would definitely invest in a book about painting. I bought one, it's very informative. I'm still working on the surface rust problem. I'm basically going to end up getting rid of the rust and priming the newly exposed metal. Then going back over it with my random orbital sander with about 600 grit paper to rough up the rest of the paint. Then going to go over all of it with primer, then wet sand. Then I'll hit it with with primer sealant and wet sand. Then finally I'll paint and clear, wet sanding between steps. It's the first car I've tried so it may take me a while, but after I do it I'll never have to pay to have a car painted again. I had thought about sanding the whole thing down to the metal and starting from there. Good Luck to you, though, I can't see a car painted with a roller looking right.