The clear coat on my Rs is pretty much SHOT its comin of faster thatn i can keep track of because of all of the rain that recently hit us, and i was complaining about it and my dad said to go out with a tube of superglue, and start putting it under the endges that are peeling, would this be a good idea? or would it be easier on me to just scrub the old apint and prime the beast?

 

sounds like a bad idea, you'd be creating more work for yourself in the long run because getting superglue off wouldn't be fun. Id vote scrub the peeling spots and spot prime it.

 

sooooooo....cut my losses and prime it?

 

thats just what I'd do, but maybe someone else has an easier way. you could just let it keep flaking off... Id say depending on how cold it is where you live and how much time you have to work on it. Ive never heard of the super glue thing though.

 

Pressure wash it all off, That is what I did, Problem solved. Then buff and polish it and you are good to go!

 

yeah i'm just gonna prime it, i'll probably get on it in a few weeks once i start generating an income again, after i shattered my ankle joint i couldnt work so now i cant even afford primer lol But oh well it'll be a great saturday project

 

Just remember primer will absorb moisture. A rattle can of duplicolor or similiar over the primer will protect the sheet metal longer than just primer.

 

what? not true, primer can be left in all weather, Ive left my car in omni mp282 primer in the rain with no problems, and I know many people who have too, it just has to be wet sandable primer.

 

Go by a sign shop, and see about finding some blue vinyl to match your car. It looks like your car is a Marina Blue. My wife's 90 RS was that blue, and the roof started that.

I worked at sign shop anyways, and found a blue that was close, and used it to cover a peeling part with it, including some of the good part, for good anchoring.

It stopped the peeling, until paint day came. You can get good 6 year vinyl, that's all I use, for my vinyl decals, so it'll last without fading or turning white.

 

Rattle can primer will work good temporarily, but it will eventually absorb water. Also, it will come off on your clothes if you lean on it or something.

A little more expensive idea, but much better, would be to go to your nearest auto body supply store, get a cheap HVLP gun and a few quarts of Gray Epoxy Primer. It looks like regular primer, except with a little more sheen like semigloss paint. It hardens up good, and seals against water permanantly. It will even seal over rust.

 

at the very least, you want a 2k primer, or an epoxy primer. try mp170,171, and 172 for omni epoxy primers, and mp175 for the hardener.

a regular primer without a sealer will absorb moisture much quicker than a sealed surface.

 

couldn't you just wet sand the clear off then re clear it?

 

I agree with using the epoxy primer. Before I painted my TA I sprayed it in PPG DP epoxy so it wasn't multicolored. It was outside for about year and frequently driven and it was fine. Just resanded it and sprayed it with PPG K36 primer/surfacer/sealer before the basecoat. Rattle can primer sucks, and sometimes doesn't fare too well with different brands of paint. As far as reclearing, I tried this a few years back with mixed results. I did it on a fender of a buddies car and it turned out just fine, just a lot of work. I tried it again on a different car, and at the edges of the old clear the new clear would bubble.