What's the best way to deal with surface rust on the rear window trim?
It's not all that noticeable, but I know it's there, and it annoys me of course...
Been thinking of just using some rust converter, but would rather not deal with any painting, and all the masking, afterwards.
I know Granville has a rust converter with paint(not sure if it comes in black, though). This is supposed to be converter, primer, and top coat all in one. Not able to find it on line though..,

 

I taped off the glass, hand sanded the bad areas, primed and then painted with semi gloss spray paint. Looks factory.

 

Thanks. Been thinking about going that way, but problem is I don't have any place to do this.
Just using a converter that would look ok after treatment would be the way to go for me right now.

 

I had that problem, and it only took a few minutes to fix it. I sanded it, then taped the glass side, and used a piece of poster board to cover the body side as I moved it with the spray can. You only need one strip of the 1.5 or 2" masking tape. If you get close enough with the can it won't over spray beyond that, and even if it does, a razor will easily scrape it right off the glass. The poster board I just placed between the glass and sail and "floated" with me as I move the can and it worked fine. No overspray on the sail at all! Just make sure your poster board is wide enough, at least a foot, foot and a half or so, and maybe 8-10" tall to be safe. When you get finished spraying, just pull your tape off and you're done! But you can do this whole job in a few minutes. My spoiler happened to be off because I had just readjusted my rear deck, but you can do it with the spoiler on. However, if you have a 91, 92 Firebird with the whale tale, or any spoiler that contacts the metal strip youre talking about, I'd recommend checking under there because the spoiler rubs the paint off over time and creates rust spots you can't see!

 

+1 It's not all that hard to do it right.

 

And I did it outside.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/auto...tal-hatch.html

 

for a finnish that will last 6 to 8 years at a time. i use this stuff called British Black. it matches the GM finish 100%. i do alot of gun smithing. and had this stuff just laying in my parts bin. and found that it matches..

i know you can use just anything to get by.. and..for a finish ya dont even have to blend..wow i was amazed.. it is $10 a can..(down side)
and $10 shipping...lol
http://aa-ok.com/black-gun-paint-bri...z-aerosol.html

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I'll see in about a month what I end up doing.