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I have a 91 T/A, and I'm also looking at an 88 Formula at the moment.
I had an 87 Formula before. I'm very familiar with the spoiler on this car. My understanding is it's vinyl with a foam core. It was first used on some 85's unpainted in black and then they started painting them to match. The problem was, they were too flexible, and also in the sun the vinyl would off gas and also leech oils in the vinyl, causing the paint on the spoiler to crack and peel.
I was looking online, and I see there's finally 30 years later fiberglass reproductions for both of these wrap around spoilers.
I have a few questions about that. I can provide links if needed, but I think two places I saw them were JEGS and Hawks.
I was curious how the fit and finish is on them, are they more or less exact replicas?
My other question was changing from a stock 85-90 version to the 91-92. You would probably need to change the 3rd brake light somehow, that's one issue. But I think I remember at least for the 85-90 there were clips on the hatch trim on the edge of the glass. I think you had to change the trim or the entire hatch to do the job right, and the 91-92 hatch with the wrap around spoiler is VERY hard to find, because so few were made.
Does anyone have experience with this to know what needs to be done to go to a 91-92 spoiler, or to go to the 85-90 fiberglass one? I was wondering how much you have to do to the fiberglass parts to make them fit RIGHT, or if they bolt up more or less perfect?
I've put on a couple of Hawks 85-90 rear wings a long time ago. Fit was good on the early ones, can't say on them these days as it's been a while (15-20yrs ago).
Also swapped to a 92 wing on my 89 formula long b4 the "correct" part was made in fiberglass. I swapped on the 91-2 decklid, glass trim and interior plastics (deck lid and rear panel) to my factory glass. I just left the 3rd brake light garbage off the car to give it a cleaner look. A word of caution, the 91-2 wing doesn't work as well as the 85-90 part, if 120mph plus is in your plans.
If you do a google search there are a few more threads with more info too.
For my 4th Gen styled spoiler from Hawks, I had to make my own thicker L brackets for the sides. Maybe a half inch wide and 16 ga metal is what I made? They provided some L brackets. However, they were made of metal that was too thin and bent easily. Fitment was perfect other than that. Then of course had to drill new holes and fill in some of the old ones on the deck lid.
I literally just had a Hawks 85-91 delivered last week for my formula 350. It came in a light gray. The over all size is DEAD ON, side to side, and the back. However I did a quick test fit and it seams a little lower. Meaning the 3rd light housing will need some trimming. I have seen others on this sight discuss this issue. I am going to start a new post and try my best to document my restore. Overall I am very happy with it so far. The holes for the screws are in place and have threading so she bolts right up. It only uses 2 clamp style small metal brackets for the tips. I have yet to try that out. It looks really good on the car and cant wait to have it painted and mounted on its new home.
I installed mine on my 90 Formula a month or so ago. Hawkeye1980’s description is dead on. Overall shape is great but I couldnt use my third brake light as it was too tall for under the spoiler and I havent figured out a solution yet. It came with the “L/J” shaped brackets but I opted to just use a screw that stuck out of the spoiler on the long parts and slide that into the bracket. Then I bolted the rear down. So far so good.
I installed mine on my 90 Formula a month or so ago. Hawkeye1980’s description is dead on. Overall shape is great but I couldnt use my third brake light as it was too tall for under the spoiler and I havent figured out a solution yet. It came with the “L/J” shaped brackets but I opted to just use a screw that stuck out of the spoiler on the long parts and slide that into the bracket. Then I bolted the rear down. So far so good.
I have some photos in my thread.
Thanks Punzak9. I will put my resolve in my post about my 89 formula 350 post. I plan to trim the housing down ever so carefully.
Interestingly, Regularguy and at least one other make the 3rd brake light fit, which produces a slight arch. Sounds like the way to go, looks like a good fit.
Interestingly, Regularguy and at least one other make the 3rd brake light fit, which produces a slight arch. Sounds like the way to go, looks like a good fit.
My brother bought a cheap fiberglass spoiler off Ebay for his GTA. I think it was like $300. I painted it for him and installed it, and it was the biggest pile of crap I've ever seen. I had to cut crosses in each side to spread it out and re glass it. It was a ton of work. He saved a few bucks and it cost me hours and hours of work. It turned out perfect in the end, but it was an absolute nightmare.
ok I am test fitting mine and have some questions. I got the 3rd break light housing fitted pretty good, sanded it down with 80 grit ever so carefully. So it does need some trimming. However, the sides are not flush with the hatch. Please see my pics. How do you guys fix this? I am thinking put screws in the spoiler and tighten them enough so the slot into the little bracket tabs that has the plastic mounts. Thoughts?
Also how do I fix the metal that wraps around the glass that has pulled away on the top of the hatch? Again see pic, thanks!
this is the housing, I have some slight bit more sanding to do, but not bad. I have this gap on both sided, what to do? how would I fix this please?
your photos are hard to discern. too close. need some perspective
The middle pic shows the gap i am talking about. Hawks says its supposed to be this way but that doesnt sound right. I am thinking I will use the stainless steel screw head method and the factory slots. to hold down the sides.
Loosen the glass to hinge bolts and gently tap that trim back on. My guess is the hatch struts have pushed the decklid rearward a bit, that also pulls the glass trim rearward and makes it pop off like that.
The middle pic shows the gap i am talking about. Hawks says its supposed to be this way but that doesnt sound right. I am thinking I will use the stainless steel screw head method and the factory slots. to hold down the sides.
It is somewhat normal. the factory part had a lot of give to it so it was easy to bend around and make it "fit". Just make the gap even and clean, that will look fine. Mostly hidden when closed anyway
Loosen the glass to hinge bolts and gently tap that trim back on. My guess is the hatch struts have pushed the decklid rearward a bit, that also pulls the glass trim rearward and makes it pop off like that.
yes the deck does stick out a bit so I have to adjust that as well. Do i need to put a glue of some sort in it to make it hole? Also, want to paint it and get rid of the rust, I am thinking a basic flat black auto rattle can on it? Thoughts? Thanks!
It is somewhat normal. the factory part had a lot of give to it so it was easy to bend around and make it "fit". Just make the gap even and clean, that will look fine. Mostly hidden when closed anyway
Ok, thats fine. But I will be using the stainless screw method, I dont trust the 2 little tabs they sent.
yes the deck does stick out a bit so I have to adjust that as well. Do i need to put a glue of some sort in it to make it hole? Also, want to paint it and get rid of the rust, I am thinking a basic flat black auto rattle can on it? Thoughts? Thanks!
There are a couple threads here somewhere about proper hatch adjustment, decklid removal and resealing. The metal frame was a thin coating of semi gloss black paint. Different brands will give different results.
I got the spoiler on with the 2 metal tabs, turned out worked fine. Its that stupid wrap around metal I need to address now. So I want to remove the deck and get it back on the window, sand and paint it. Just not sure how to put the glass and rear deck at rest so I can clean it up. Afraid I will break that rear window.
06-12-2019, 02:47 AM
