Can I change the upper door pins while the door is still on the car and the lower hinge still attached?

From the looks of it, I can use my oscillating multi tool with a flat blade to cut out the top factory pins.

I plan to support the door with my jack, but with the top pins out and lower hinge still connected, will I have enough play in the door to remove and install the bushings on the hinge?

 

I did this last year.
You'll have to unbolt the hinge from the body side and remove it. The bushing sandwiches between the body hinge and the door hinge. I highly recommend using a carbide blade.

 

Already got me a carbide blade for the multi tool...should cut it like butter.

So without unbolting the hinge from the car, (which I'm trying to avoid) there isnt enough wiggle room to remove and install new bushing?

How hard it it to get at those upper bolts?

 

When I did the upper and lower hinges on my 89 TA, I removed the upper pins, and than removed the lower, I supported the door on a jack and replaced the bushings on the top and bottom hinges, than inserted the pins back in. Around 2 hours to do upper and lower using a dremel. I didn't have to remove the hinges.

 

1. SHOULD is the operative word. Those things are big, and I think they're made of hardened steel
2. No. Because the bushing has that barrel on it. It's the same thickness as both of the hinge plates.
3. The bolts aren't impossible, but can be a bitch, especially the back one. You can't get in there all too well with a socket. I had to use open-ended box wrenches.

 

I recently did both top & bottom on my 92 Camaro. I did it with the doors on because of limited room in my garage. I tied a ratchet strap to a beam right above the door! So I can adjust by cranking of the strap how much to move up or down.
So I removed the bottom hinge first. Remove the spring with a spring compression tool. I got it a Advanced auto parts $10.
Then with a carbide blade, I bought the oscillating Diablo 50x longer life. It was $20 .It does cut like butter. I masked the inside of the door and the pillar with some tape to prevent the blade from scratching it.
I cut the bottom of the pin (the smaller one,not the one with the roller) and with a center punch hit it to come out from the top. Remove the 13mm outside bolt and then 2 15mm are inside,behind the kick panel.
Now you can remove the hinge and put it on the vice and cut the bottom of the pin with the carbide blade.
Take the new pin and install the roller on top. Now what I did with the parts I bought, I had to drill the bottom hole a little to fit the new pin. The lower part of the new pin is thicker so you have to customize it a liitle. And then I tack weld it to stay in place.
Put your new bushing back on and install it on the door. Make sure to grease all of the parts, pins and bushings.
Once you tighten the bottom hinge you can start with the top. The top is easier but got to be more careful there is not much room. Cut the bolts off, remove the hinge,insert the bushings and tighten everything down. Dont forget to put a rag to cover the lower hinge, the blade makes a big mess with fine shavings! Also grease everything and you are done! Hopefully

 

easy enough

but put a ladder over the door and hang it from ratchet straps. it will be much more secure than having a jack under it.

 

So this wasn't as bad as I was making it out to be in my head...lolsqueaks.... Thanks for all the help!

Me and my son knocked out top and bottom hinges in about 2 hours a side.

We got one of those Steck door cradles that bolts to our floor jack...held the door in place....cut all pins with one carbide blade on my multi tool.

Top pins fell out, bushings were shot. Bottom pin was a bit tougher to get out.

Slid the door back about 3 inches, cleaned all surfaces and installed new bushings. Pushed door back onto hinges and that was that.

Also installed new outer handles, new locks, new door weather strips, lubed everything...and tightened up any rattles

The doors operates and sounds great!