Chasis Strain and Stress Cracks
Chasis Strain and Stress Cracks
Ok, a question I've had for a long time..... My chasis creaks and seems to be a little weak. I'm assuming that aquiring and installing SFC's will help this problem imensley. But, aside from that, what and where are some common places that usually absorb the most stress and are more likely to distort? Right now, the Hood doesn't shut correctly (Could just be the hood) and its not that big of a deal, less than an inch off on either side. And the back hatch doesn't shut properly, its a little crooked. The Passenger Side Door doesn't line up with the front fender properly. And I've developed Stress Cracks in the upper, rear window area.... both Drivers side and Passenger. There not anything incredibly major, but, they are there, and it is a new paint job... sooooo. Any info would be helpful here, just need to know what I have to do about it. Theres really no rust on the body, its in overall good condition. How bad is all this crap? And what do I do to resolve it, if anything.
ThanX Guys
Adam
ThanX Guys
Adam
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Yes SFC's will help, but I don't recommend putting them on until you've fixed the frame. Another weak area is the frame area behind the steering box. A Steering Brace (aka Wonder Bar) will help relieve the stress there. The crack in the roof needs to be professionally healed. Have them drill a hole in the end of the crack, then fill it with weld and grind flush. I suppose they could back it with a reinforcing piece as well. It sounds as if your car was in one or more accidents in it's lifetime. The hood, fenders, doors and hatch can all be aligned. Each has slots so they can be adjusted. It would be best to take the car to a frame shop and have them take measurements and strighten the frame first. Then have SFC's welded in. Lon
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 14,293
Likes: 195
From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
I believe the IROC was the only car to offer the factory "Wonderbar"
If you have the hard top version, I would even recommend getting the T-top door jam pieces for extra stiffness. it should help transfer some of the load from the top to the doors.
That with SFC's should tighten up your car.
John
If you have the hard top version, I would even recommend getting the T-top door jam pieces for extra stiffness. it should help transfer some of the load from the top to the doors.
That with SFC's should tighten up your car.
John
My hardtop GTA had a stress crack over the drivers side roof line. I got sick of looking at it, so I put in a pair of SSM SFC's and had the crack welded/painted and it has not come back knock on wood so it has definitly helped me. Oh by the way what does the "T-Top door jam pieces" look like?
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Chet,
I e-mailed you pictures of the wedge pieces. Convertibles have them as well.
Lon
I e-mailed you pictures of the wedge pieces. Convertibles have them as well.
Lon
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My '86 has a 1" or so crack on the inside of the drivers door starting at the top about even with where the steering wheel is. Both of the plastic pieces on the top of the door panels have cracked in two there. I've seen a couple of thirdgens with a crack on the sailpanel just about even with the top of the door, and one hardtop with a crack in the rear upper corner of the drivers door opening.
Originally posted by Chet
My hardtop GTA had a stress crack over the drivers side roof line. I got sick of looking at it, so I put in a pair of SSM SFC's and had the crack welded/painted and it has not come back knock on wood so it has definitly helped me. Oh by the way what does the "T-Top door jam pieces" look like?
My hardtop GTA had a stress crack over the drivers side roof line. I got sick of looking at it, so I put in a pair of SSM SFC's and had the crack welded/painted and it has not come back knock on wood so it has definitly helped me. Oh by the way what does the "T-Top door jam pieces" look like?
Could you post a pic here please?
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
I don't know why it doesn't show up for some. I suspect you have to register with Yahoo for a picture album. I will e-mail them to you. Lon
Moderator




Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 14,293
Likes: 195
From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
n/m
It would not let me delete my post aaaarrrgh!
John
It would not let me delete my post aaaarrrgh!
John
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 548
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, Texas
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 5.3 Gen III SBC
Transmission: 4L80E NTC 258mm Stall
Axle/Gears: Trick Chassis 9" 3.50 S-Strac
Could somebody send me the pics of the wedge?? also does anyone have a picture of the steering box crack?? thanks
Moderator




Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 14,293
Likes: 195
From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
Oh, before I forget, to mention this, when getting those wedges & stuff from T-top cars, remember to get the shims as well.
I think all you will need is a Torx T-15 to remove the wedges...
John
I think all you will need is a Torx T-15 to remove the wedges...
John
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Here are the pictures. Lon

