Pulling to the right under braking
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Pulling to the right under braking
I have replaced ever single part of the brake system with new parts and the car still pulls bad to the right when under braking. HELP ME PLEASE!!!!!
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Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
Originally posted by Bralgar
When you say you changed every brake part, exactly which parts are you refering to? Give us a list. Might be something you overlooked.
When you say you changed every brake part, exactly which parts are you refering to? Give us a list. Might be something you overlooked.
Pete
#5
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Car: 99 WS6 / 00 SS / 11 CTS-V / 13 300
Engine: LS1 / LS1 / LSA / 5.7 Hemi
Transmission: 4L60E / T-56 / 6L80E / W5A80
Axle/Gears: 3.23 / 3.42 Auburn / 3.23 / 2.62
My old RS did the same thing until I had the front brake hoses replaced...problem went away. My new Formula does the same thing, and I'm almost positive its the same thing...a clogged hose. With the RS, the left hose was so clogged, the RF did about 90% of the front braking...the left pads were like brand new, but the rights were shot.
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new Brake hoses
new master cylinder
new slave cylinder
new porportioning valve
new calipers
new rotors
and a couple of new steel brake lines and we bleed the hell out of them out so I know there is NO air in the lines either.
??????????????????????????
What else is there?
new master cylinder
new slave cylinder
new porportioning valve
new calipers
new rotors
and a couple of new steel brake lines and we bleed the hell out of them out so I know there is NO air in the lines either.
??????????????????????????
What else is there?
#7
Re: list
Originally posted by STUB25
new Brake hoses
new master cylinder
new slave cylinder
new porportioning valve
new calipers
new rotors
and a couple of new steel brake lines and we bleed the hell out of them out so I know there is NO air in the lines either.
??????????????????????????
What else is there?
new Brake hoses
new master cylinder
new slave cylinder
new porportioning valve
new calipers
new rotors
and a couple of new steel brake lines and we bleed the hell out of them out so I know there is NO air in the lines either.
??????????????????????????
What else is there?
j/k... If you changed all that and you are certain no oil or grease is on the rotors or pads (you did clean the rotors really good right) then it is more than likely a suspension/steering component. also make sure you don't have any lines switched at the proprtioning valve (if any of the steel lines you replaced went to it)
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smart a$$!! LOL j/k!
I cleaned the **** out of the rotors and yes it does have new pads ! Here's what happens. When I just brake (without pumping the pedal) it will pull to the right imidialty(spelling) but when I pump it and then brake very slowly it won't pull at all but at the point where I apply it just a heir more it pulls to the right. That's my situation. It sounds like the proportioning valve but that is brand new with only 350 miles on it as well as the rest of the braking components have less then 500 miles on them!!! What do ya say?
I would say get another new proportioning valve or maybe one from Wilwood?
thanks for the help here guys!!
D
I cleaned the **** out of the rotors and yes it does have new pads ! Here's what happens. When I just brake (without pumping the pedal) it will pull to the right imidialty(spelling) but when I pump it and then brake very slowly it won't pull at all but at the point where I apply it just a heir more it pulls to the right. That's my situation. It sounds like the proportioning valve but that is brand new with only 350 miles on it as well as the rest of the braking components have less then 500 miles on them!!! What do ya say?
I would say get another new proportioning valve or maybe one from Wilwood?
thanks for the help here guys!!
D
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i replaced most of my brake components.
calipers
pads
rotors
added braided lines and synthetic fluid
still had the problem
i rebuilt the front end, mainly the left ball joint was bad, but i replaced everything.
i had a major pull to the left when braking......changed the lines to braided and it almost got rid of it.......rebuilt the front end and it completely stopped.
remember that is also depends on the road, alot are concave for draining issues......try to find the straightest road possible to test.
unless you have something hanging up i would certainly look into something like above.
not only was the braided lines worth the money......now stops on a dime with the stock setup(well sort of stock) but, with the new steering components i can now literally let go of the wheel and stop straight! on a flat road of course.
anyway, you might want to check it ou.
calipers
pads
rotors
added braided lines and synthetic fluid
still had the problem
i rebuilt the front end, mainly the left ball joint was bad, but i replaced everything.
i had a major pull to the left when braking......changed the lines to braided and it almost got rid of it.......rebuilt the front end and it completely stopped.
remember that is also depends on the road, alot are concave for draining issues......try to find the straightest road possible to test.
unless you have something hanging up i would certainly look into something like above.
not only was the braided lines worth the money......now stops on a dime with the stock setup(well sort of stock) but, with the new steering components i can now literally let go of the wheel and stop straight! on a flat road of course.
anyway, you might want to check it ou.
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Car: 89 Formula / 09 G8
Engine: LS1 / LS3
Transmission: M6 / M6
Axle/Gears: 3:42 / 3:27
I would also check the suspension. A shot balljoint would make the wheel drift, thus causing it to pull off to one side. A toasted A-arm bushing could also cause a similar situation.
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
If you're still wondering if there's air in the lines, or the master cylinder, go to http://www.brakebleeder.com and check out the V12. I bought it, and it's so easy to bleed the brakes now. (I went thru hell with my 3.73/posi/disc swap.) Plus the video shows you exactly where air gets trapped!
#12
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the suspension is great it drives straight as a arrow. I have let go of the wheel for distances like 4 to 5 miles and it goes perfectly. It's only when braking, plus the car only has 68K on it so it shouldn't be any suspension parts, yet I hope!! The steering is as tight as possible with very little play at all. I will check my ball joints, ect.. And get back to you on what I found!
D
D
#13
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the clog could even be up as far as the metal brake lines going from the Master Cylinder. if you can or if you have the time.. i would find someone with an air compressor.. disassemble the brake lines and flush them completely. i had a similar problem on me 93 Tahoe. when the mechanic changed out the master cylinder he got some gunk in the metal line to the right front bake. made the car pull pretty car.
#14
You possibly have fatigued right a-arm bushings or even cracked. Under harder G's such as heavy braking, it could be failing and causing unwanted steer. This would be harder to detect while under cornering G's. Just something else to check along with ball-joint. It could be a left rear suspension bushing as well, but that would be more noticable than just hard braking.
Last edited by AFrikinGoodTime; 05-25-2002 at 01:01 AM.
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