Ok, so after hotroddin around town with the new engine, and actually driving the car, I have developed some cracks in the rotors, they are some aftermarket rotors on stock brakes, comming with the slotted/drilled

So where is the cheapest place to get the Baer 13" Front kit??

Also ebmiller? I've seen numerous things praising your brakes, what kind of things do you offer as far as slotted/drilled fronts go?

Thanks

 

With the 19's on there, i would consider the Spohn wilwood kit. Price/Performance wise it can't be beat.

The 13" C4 HD kit would be virtualy the same thing as the 13" Baer kit. So if you want to go the route with the PBRs i would go with Ed's kit.

 

I'd like a bit more info on Ed's setup as well I'm not going to be messing with my front brakes for a while though..unless the eBay drilled/slotted rotors I'm about to finally install crack on me right away!

By the way, what d/s rotors cracked on you?

 

Well Ed certainly makes a quality kit. They work very well.

I have a thread I started on here a couple months ago where I was looking for the best brakes for the money. I concidered the baer brakes but with the crossdrilled and slotted option and all it was becoming very expensive.

If Ed doesn't see this soon I'll email all the info I have on his kit to those interested.

I chose the C4HD's because I really wanted to keep my 16" wheels, so maybe there are better ones for those with bigger wheels I don't know. I never bothered researching them.

Chris

 

Guess.....Those ebay powerslot ones........

 

Awesome... lol, got my set for $100 shipped from "SpeedyDynamic" on eBay. I guess I'll see how they hold up when I finally get them on. Should be in the next few days.. If/when they crack, I buy better brakes

 

It took me nearly 1 year, however there are multiple cracks....

 

cracking is a common problem with most slotted/drilled rotors.

 

Yeah, well its good they lasted about a year because I don't want to have to fund any front brake conversions right now, I just finished my rear axle and have about 10min worth of work left to get the LS1 brakes working in the back.

 

You can get the Baer Traks direct from Baer starting at 1095.00 -- I have not seen a lower price anywhere.

Im in talks with Ed to build a setup using the LS1 calipers, and pads with the C5 abutment, rotor, and bracket adapter. That way we can run the larger 12.75 rotor and still fit 'em under the 16" wheels. He offers drilled / slotted rotors as a 65 dollar upgrade with the package.

 

are they all gonan crack , i wanna get the spohn wilwood kit and i want them drilled and slotted. Im gonna do this upgrade next year and i dont wanna get nice brakes and then have to replace them . I only drive about 2500 miles a year and never in the rain .

 

I personally am going to do the C5 conversion.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...slotted+rotors

 

Why is it that folks keep on drilling rotors? AP racing rotors and others of similar quality are called cross drilled but are actually cast with holes in them. This prevents stress fractures that lead to cracks. Spohn 13" set and others still seem to go with drilling the rotors. I guess its a cost thing, but any chance of the option? Is Baer track kit drilled or cast with holes?

Si.

 

I believe the set I got were factory-cast with holes in them. I'm hoping so at least. I can't see any machining marks on the inside of the bore of each hole though... I haven't installed them yet..should be the next few days when I have time away from work.

 

ANY Drilled/"cast with holes" rotors WILL crack over time.
Slotted rotors are NOT suppose to crack, because they are
slotted. There's no holes to create cracks around them. However,
it all depends on how the slots are machined into the rotor, they
may still develop cracks, just not as likely or as often as drilled.
Same with the drilled/slotted type, if there's holes, there will be
cracks.

You actually "weaken" the strength of the rotor by drilling
holes in them. Drilling holes only reduces brake fade. And
will vary on what type of pads you are using, the way the
holes are drilled, how many holes, etc.

Drilled rotors are "disposable" rotors. They are also
the "bling" and "hype" rotor of the 90s and beyond!

That's why I am buying the 13" Wilwood kit from Spohn
with regular rotors. If they warp, just resurface them.
There's no holes for them to crack. Every day driving with
occassional strip, go with regular rotors or just slotted rotors.

 

Doesn't matter. Cross drilled or ANY way of drilling holes
through rotors will create stress/heat cracks over time.
Some may just last longer than others. It's all on how
you drive the car, the amount of power/torque from the
vehicle, abuse, etc. That's why there's usually NO warranty
on those parts.

Spohn offers regular vented style rotors. For the modest
hp car with occassional drag race, go with regular ones,
don't waste your money on drilled.

 

Personally, im a big fan of the slotted only rotor, they rock. But wear your pads down fast. Drilled just look nice behind a nice open spoke wheel. Since im gonna have open spokes, im going for the drill/slotted. Its a looks thing. Either way, if you are REALLY easy on them and break everything in real good, the rotors will last long enough.

 

what good are big brakes, if you are easy on them/

Si, As far is I am aware, the only rotors that actualy have cast holes are some Porsche rotors, I beleive they are made by Brembo, for Porsche, this is still debatable. I recal a thread on corner-carvers, in which some pictures of the rotors were posted, and there was also a brembo tech posting diffrent information than the pictures showed.

Do you have any tech on AP Racing selling or manufacturing rotors this way?

 

ya, i was too lazy to correct the my words, i ment be real easy on them for like the first month of use. Personally i use Baer's break in procedure and double it in length. And i make sure i NEVER come to a stop.

PS.. i saw 13" brakes under an 18" wheel, brakes looked tiny in comparison...i have 18" wheels on the way. i really want someting in a 14+" style. i love HUGE brakes, i think they make or brake the car (muhahah, hehe, haha, oh geez).

well the wheel's and paint make the car. but the brakes are so dominent in open spoke design wheels so the brakes too are importaint.

im just stupid, dont mind me.

 

You could do a C5 or C4HD to get you some bigger brakes and save money over a Baer kit. I think the C5 with 13" rotors(I measured them out of the box, 13" not 12.75) look great behind my 17s. I see you have 19s so the would help fill up the wheel. Just a thought...

 

Ball milling may be a good alternative to cross drilling if functionality is what is desired (as opposed to bling). Seems like it'd weaken the rotor less.

I hear its a real pain to turn (resurface) drilled/slotted/milled rotors, has anyone here had this done & had a problem?

 

I have turned drilled rotors many many times on my own vehicles. Been running them for years. The cutting bits on the lathe will wear a little quicker but not as bad as the so called "brake pros" will claim. They may turn 40 rotors drilled as opposed to 50 rotors undrilled.

I PERSONALLY have a set of drilled rotors on the front of my car right now that have been on there off and on over the last ten years. They have NEVER cracked and believe me most of you know I streess the heck out of this car. They are Stillen rotors that I have warped a few times from heat and began getting vibrations in the steering under braking. A quick turn makes them fine again- but never a crack.

I have used the "Powerslot" rotors on this car and had nothing but problems with them warpping rapidly- like every three months or less. So I took them off an reinstalled the Stillen drilled rotors for now until my Wilwoods are ready. I am only replacing my brake setups due to heat reliabilty problems. The Stillen drilled rotors mange the heat FAR better than the Powerslot rotors do- and miraculously they do not crack. I can also tell you first hand that the Stillen drilled rotors and pads have a much better sweetspot than the Powerslot rotors and Stillen Carbonmatrix pads. The drills do help in stopping power for my application- it depends on the pad. The other reason I am replacing my setup with Wilwoods is because the stock iron delco-morraine calipers do not hold the pads in place without rattling to heck. Yes I have done everything imaginable to keep this from happening- but the tabs will weaken and come uncinched from the high heat of the 10.5"rotor. Stopping power was never a problem, reliability over time is.

 

Cool, I knew it was harder on the tool but didn't know the magnitude as I haven't the experience.

Personally, I have the stock disc/drum setup and for the use the car sees it works very well, but I don't race like some of you. I'd urge anyone looking to upgrade their street car in the interests of function to make sure their stock stuff works properly before they decide its inadequate. Of course, your brakes can never be too good IMHO, I'd agree to just avoid the cheap stuff though.