EFI to Carb....braking issue
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EFI to Carb....braking issue
Switched to carb from HSR and I have lost some vacuum for the brakes. The hose from the booster is rubber, hard line and then rubber to the carb. The brakes are sometimes hard and stopping is difficult. Any ideas on a better way to do this? I have a Holley 750 dbl pumper. Thanks.
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From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
How much vacuum at idle? (More or less than after swap?)
Possible vacuum leak after carb swap?
You might try running hose to a fitting on intake manifold instead of carb.
Possible vacuum leak after carb swap?
You might try running hose to a fitting on intake manifold instead of carb.
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Originally posted by Lo-tec
How much vacuum at idle? (More or less than after swap?)
Possible vacuum leak after carb swap?
You might try running hose to a fitting on intake manifold instead of carb.
How much vacuum at idle? (More or less than after swap?)
Possible vacuum leak after carb swap?
You might try running hose to a fitting on intake manifold instead of carb.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Your vacuum line runs from the booster to the carb with no other devices teed off of it?
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Originally posted by Apeiron
Your vacuum line runs from the booster to the carb with no other devices teed off of it?
Your vacuum line runs from the booster to the carb with no other devices teed off of it?
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From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
Might want to get a vacuum gauge on it first. If you have less vacuum than before, might not be enough to operate booster.
A lot of intakes have threads in one of the rear runners or on the back side of the plenum under the carb to put a fitting in.
A lot of intakes have threads in one of the rear runners or on the back side of the plenum under the carb to put a fitting in.
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Originally posted by Lo-tec
Might want to get a vacuum gauge on it first. If you have less vacuum than before, might not be enough to operate booster.
A lot of intakes have threads in one of the rear runners or on the back side of the plenum under the carb to put a fitting in.
Might want to get a vacuum gauge on it first. If you have less vacuum than before, might not be enough to operate booster.
A lot of intakes have threads in one of the rear runners or on the back side of the plenum under the carb to put a fitting in.
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Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
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Originally posted by Stekman
If inadequate vacuum is present at the booster, try a vacuum resevoir.
If inadequate vacuum is present at the booster, try a vacuum resevoir.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Out of curiosity, how big is your cam? A vacuum pump might be a better idea than a reservoir on a street driven car.
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From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
I would definitely measure you vacuum at idle first to see how close you are. I have 13" @ idle and have no problems. You might be able to tweak carb mixture and timing at idle to bump vacuum enough to avoid canister or pump.
If you have to, I would also look into a vacuum pump instead of canister. Some of the turd diesel cadillacs in the early 80's had both electric and belt driven ones that should be easy to adapt. Check your local boneyard.
If you have to, I would also look into a vacuum pump instead of canister. Some of the turd diesel cadillacs in the early 80's had both electric and belt driven ones that should be easy to adapt. Check your local boneyard.
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Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
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Axle/Gears: Rescued from the Borg by my crew
I will check on my cam specs. I don't remember what they are. My buddy says that the motor was built to the point where there is almost no vacuum. I am going to try the reservoir. I think it will be adequate. Honestly, I only drive the car 4-5k miles a year. Work is only a little more than a mile from my house. The brakes work, it's just that they are hard at first and then normal and sometimes go back to being hard once in a while. Thanks for the input. I'll let you know how it goes. It should be done somoetime next week.
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