92 rar drum brakes ?
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From: Ga.
Car: sold
92 rar drum brakes ?
for some reason my rear brakes are not working good at all i have bleed them numerous times and they sill dont work right. any sugestions?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Ga.
Car: sold
everything is new. i mean everything. i though that also so i change it again. i have pulled the ebrake a few times and it didnt help, and it does work. the only other thing i can think of is the portion valve
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Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
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From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
E-brake doesn't have anything to do with the proportioning valve, it's a solely mechanical device. So if the E-brake doesn't work either, then you have missed getting parts/springs/etc. connected correctly.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 20
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Originally posted by ssean92
i have pulled the ebrake a few times and it didnt help, and it does work.
i have pulled the ebrake a few times and it didnt help, and it does work.
What about adjustment of the drums? I'm no good at it at all, but I know once my brother adjusted mine, and it really helped.
Also, are you sure you got the adjustment screw installed correctly? If it's in backwards (I did this once) - then your brakes will try to adjust when braking while moving forwards, instead of adjusting itself when braking by moving backwards? LOL - does that makes sense? Drum brakes self-adjust when braking in reverse - the adjustment piece must be facing correctly in both wheels (which means one side is installed opposite from the other). If it's wrong, it'll adjust itself looser instead of tighter when you brake while driving forward.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Ga.
Car: sold
thanks for the reply but, i am not a rookie when it comes to auto skills. Im not trying to be a jerk but i put everything togeather right, i guess i will need to just spend the money and pay for it to get a power flush and get all the traped air out. that is the only thing that i can think that it is. thanks again for your reply hope i didnt seem to assish. I will have to see what happens after that
Last edited by ssean92; Nov 28, 2005 at 07:01 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 20
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Hey - no problem. I'm definitely no expert - just passing on ideas that I've had experience with - that's what were all here for - to pass along ideas, some good, some stupid.
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: LA
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: Holley MPFI, AFR 195, Hot Cam=375HP
Transmission: T-56
So the e-brake works but the pedal doen't. Is it weak or are you getting zero movement from the wheel cylinders. Is your pedal firm or soft. How many miles are on the master cylinder.
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Ga.
Car: sold
all new parts from front to rear, mushy pedel, if i pull in to my garage and the floor is alittle wet the rear tires will start to spin with my foot pressing hard on the pedel. i i bench bled the master cylinder before install, here are the parts that were changed, front calipers,pads,front brake hoses, master cylinder, rear shoes, wheel cylinders, and rubber line in back. the only thing that i havent changed is the rear drums, all parts only have maybe 100 miles on them have bled the whole system numerous times
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 340
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From: LA
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: Holley MPFI, AFR 195, Hot Cam=375HP
Transmission: T-56
I had this same problem on a Nova. Where did you get your Master Cylinder from?
We changed every damn brake part on the whole car, even the front hard lines. We could not get a good pedal to save our souls.
It was a bad master cylinder right out of the box.
I assume you've bled the brakes correctly several times. Your not getting any air out of them right? If you done that, the only place air can hide is the MS. Al lot of them are rebuilt (weather they say they are or not) and not all rebuilds are the same.
Try a new one if that isn't it, I'll go find some people smarter than me and ask em.
Ben
We changed every damn brake part on the whole car, even the front hard lines. We could not get a good pedal to save our souls.
It was a bad master cylinder right out of the box.
I assume you've bled the brakes correctly several times. Your not getting any air out of them right? If you done that, the only place air can hide is the MS. Al lot of them are rebuilt (weather they say they are or not) and not all rebuilds are the same.
Try a new one if that isn't it, I'll go find some people smarter than me and ask em.
Ben
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Ga.
Car: sold
i had tried that also, i did that about a month ago or so, will wore out drums cause this, the car has 87k on it and the drums have never been changed. my thought. I think i am going to change them and then take it to a place to get it power bleed. thanks for all your guys replies sean
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 20
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
I wouldn't think drums would wear out in that few miles. My 1990 have 190k on them, with no problems. The rear brakes see much less force/use, since weight shifts forward - the front brakes get the abuse - hell most people don't even change shoes before they trade cars - 'cause there just isn't the wear on them like the front. But who knows, as usual, anything is possible!
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
From: LA
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: Holley MPFI, AFR 195, Hot Cam=375HP
Transmission: T-56
I have never heard of worn drums causing a mushy pedal, unless they were extremely worn and the wheel cylinders leak cause they extend too much but then you would see brake fluid, which you didn't see.
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