i swapped pbr rear disc's into my 84 camaro (z28) swap is done but i wanted to get the 1le prop valve to make sure i get the most out of this brake system. so i ordered this valve 14089496 which is supposed to be the ile valve for the 1.0mm fitting cars

but the valve outlets are in differnt locations ?? what the

my old valve has two from master in the top and one out the top, then one out the front and one out the bottom

but the 1le one has ...two in the top from master and one out the top but has a cap and plug in the front and two going out the bottom ??

can i just move the cap and plug to the bottom??



please help asap this is driving me nuts

 

ok i did some more searching and found out you cant switch them but there is a big swirl of brake like right before it enters the valve so maybe i can re-rout it to the new outlet spot??

 

This from Dan Burke's page:

I used the 14089496 1st design because my car was built in 1984.

Mine required some relocating of the rear disk brake line: My old combo valve had the line coming in the front, whereas the 1LE piece had it coming in from the bottom of the valve. My existing line bent with no problems. Be prepared to replace that line if it's at all corroded. It might crack.

JamesC

 

sweet man thanks where did you find that ??? i must have looked through 800 results for "prop valve " hehe

 

http://www.ws6transam.org/1LEbrake.html

JamesC

 

Thank you James, I've used Dan's pages a lot over the years.

Ed

 

well i ended up being able to bend the brake lines as he suggested but now i have NO pedal except for just enough at the floor to stop the car and the brake light is on so i think the master is toast, but i had suspected it had issues before now do to the following

1 it litterally shot a stream of fluid onto the cowl of the car while i was trying to bleed it with the cover off
2 there was alot of black goo in the bottom of both resevoirs which leads me to think that the seals were dead
3 also one resevoir was ALWAYS higher than the other (front one think) so something wasn't right

so i ordered a NEW one from autozone today it should be in on tuesday

in the last 3 months ive done the following to this car
1 new engine (with serpentine conversion)
2 new transmission
3 new disc rearend
4 removed and sound deadened interior
and now i have replaced the master cylinder and prop valve
so it is basicly a new car

sheesh

 

Your no pedal issue makes me think the system just needs to be bled thoroughly.

Let me make some comments:

1. Never bleed brakes with the MC cover off, fluid will always go everywhere since that's the area of least pressure;
2. The goo in the bottom of the reservoir tells me that the fluid was very dirty and hasn't been changed anytime recently so you need to completely flush the system and change the front brake lines, they're probably adding to the issue;
3. One side of the res is usually higher as fluid moves in to the piston bore to make up for pad wear.

Your old master might have been just fine but I'm sure the new one will remove all doubt.

Ed

 

i was under the impression that 82-84 f-bodys had different master cyclinders and the earlier ones were not compatable with 1le brakes for some reason.

 

i did bleed it with a air power vacuum bleeder(snap on or the like) and the results were the same i have no leaks and since the brakes were fine right up until the master ran dry during the rear end swap i figured age combined with bad luck of running it dry would cause may have lead to its demise
i ordered a NEW one through auto zone with the resevior so the whole system minus brake lines will be new
im obviosly gonna bench bleed the master before i install it then i have a mighty vac ill use to bleed the system at home (not safe to drive back to work)

 

i didn't install the 1le brakes just pbr discs in the rear and the 1le Proportioning valve

 

sorry comuter glitch

 

i didn't install 1le brakes i installed pbr discs and the 1le proportioning valve and now im replacing the disc/drum master with a disc/disc master
ed are you sure that a stream if fluid from the master is normal ?? to the point where if the cover is on i can watch it BULGE the cover when i hit the brakes?? it even pushed one corner up at one piont!!!

 

Again from Dan B. Master Cylinder: p/n: 18014286 - Same as the J50 option drum brake equipped cars from 1984-up. If you have drum brakes, you have the right master cylinder! It is only us poor schmoes with 1982-1988 rear disk equipped cars that need a different master cylinder.

Check the link I provide above (or maybe I'm simply missing something--wouldn't be the first time!).

JamesC

 

so will the new one i order from autozone be any different i just asked for the disc/disc one and they order it hmm well it has to be better then the one i have now since it doesn't work, even with the car off i have a soft pedal

 

Don't replace with a disc/disc master, go with a disc/drum as mentioned above. All masters were the same regardless of rear brakes from '90 on up so it's not an issue.

On the fluid issue, if it's doing that with the cover on, I suspect the hoses are clogged...how long since they have been replaced? If you never have, stop work now and go get a new set of both front hoses and make sure you have good flow to the rears, hoses will rot from the inside and you can't tell by looking at them.

Ed

 

what do you mean hoses the rear end just came out of a 92 z28 that was fine that was maybe 2 weeks ago the flex hose is not brittle or cracked
im stuck with the discdisc master i think since it was special order if it was clogged wouldn't the pedal be hard?? dont forget that this isan 84 so there are two differnt masters available the only differnence being that the disc disc has a larger rear piston 34mm i believe wich would decrese pressure slightly but would also effectivly shorten the stroke required to move the pads i believe but combined with the 1le valve i dont think the pressure change will have an effect
prior to installing the 1le valve the brakes were fine other than the pedal was low not spongy or soft just low so i replaced the prop valve and as a result the master ran dry and after i vacuum bled the system to no avial i decided a new master might be my best bet since heaven knows how new the old one is

do you really think the diference between disc disc and disc drum will be that HUGE

 

The 1LE valve and disc/drum master "will" give you the most out of this system. Ed's right about replacement: The front hoses are over 20 years old and who knows what their internal condition, front or year, is. The hoses are relatively cheap. I'd replace.

JamesC

 

well i went outside today and changed the rear diff oil with synthetic and while i had it up in the air i checked and even with the brake pedal to the floor as hard as i can the rear brakes do nothing as far as i can tell plus there is not resistence in the pedal at all till im about 2 inches from the floor so i think the master is bad ive never seen air cause that much loss of braking espcially after i vacuum bled it , that is not to say ive seen it all though so i could be wrong
im gonna try to see if autozone will rearorder the drum disc on on teusday hopefully they wont charge me and it like 15 bucks cheaper YAY!!!
By the way ed while i have you here what at his point is the easiest and least expensive front brake conversion (ls1 ,c4 etc) car looks wierd with 11.65 in the back and 10.5 in the front hehe