brake problem (they pull hard to right)
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From: Ganiesville GA
Car: 1992 z28/1992 RS heritage edition
Engine: 350 tpi, 305 tbi
Transmission: 700R4,T5
Axle/Gears: G92
brake problem (they pull hard to right)
my brakes when you hit them pull very hard to to the right like you are turning the wheel....also after you hit them it feels like they dont want to let off like you are still pushing them. does anyone know whats wrong with them. also my friend said it sounds like a ummm i dont know the exact word but it starts with a p some sort of valve. he said that is the problem. i have never done any brake work. does anyome know the problem
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No, the proportioning valve is not the problem.
What it actually is, is the flexible rubber hose going to the LEFT wheel. The way those fail, is to rust on the inside, until barely just a pinhole is left for the fluid to go through; or sometimes they manage to rust up completely. Sounds like yours has about one-tenth of a pinhole still there: not enough for enough fluid to get through to operate the brakes significantly, but whatever little bit of fluid does get through there, can't get back out when you take your foot off the brakes.
Replace both sides. If one is like that, the other isn't far behind.
You can get stainless-steel braided ones, which are noticeably better than the stock rubber ones. Get the Earl's ones, NOT the Russell ones. Your local speed shop, Summit & Jeg's, and some of the board sponsors (Spohn in particular, maybe others) are all sources for them.
What it actually is, is the flexible rubber hose going to the LEFT wheel. The way those fail, is to rust on the inside, until barely just a pinhole is left for the fluid to go through; or sometimes they manage to rust up completely. Sounds like yours has about one-tenth of a pinhole still there: not enough for enough fluid to get through to operate the brakes significantly, but whatever little bit of fluid does get through there, can't get back out when you take your foot off the brakes.
Replace both sides. If one is like that, the other isn't far behind.
You can get stainless-steel braided ones, which are noticeably better than the stock rubber ones. Get the Earl's ones, NOT the Russell ones. Your local speed shop, Summit & Jeg's, and some of the board sponsors (Spohn in particular, maybe others) are all sources for them.
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From: Ganiesville GA
Car: 1992 z28/1992 RS heritage edition
Engine: 350 tpi, 305 tbi
Transmission: 700R4,T5
Axle/Gears: G92
thank you for the infromation but we dont have many stores like that around here
so ill have to find one also how much do you think it will cost to replace both for the braided you were talking about or how much is it just to replace them?
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so ill have to find one also how much do you think it will cost to replace both for the braided you were talking about or how much is it just to replace them?----------
Last edited by david068513; Oct 9, 2006 at 03:52 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: lakewood colorado
Car: 84-92 firebirds
Engine: 2.8/3.1
Transmission: auto
The rubber lines should be available at your local parts store - cost ~$30 for both sides. The braided lines mentioned above from summit and jegs can be purchased from their web sites. Click on the link for Spohn Performance on the right side of this page for their site.
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From: Ganiesville GA
Car: 1992 z28/1992 RS heritage edition
Engine: 350 tpi, 305 tbi
Transmission: 700R4,T5
Axle/Gears: G92
thank you also are they hard to do yourself or should i bring her somewhere? i have no brake experence.
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From: Ganiesville GA
Car: 1992 z28/1992 RS heritage edition
Engine: 350 tpi, 305 tbi
Transmission: 700R4,T5
Axle/Gears: G92
i have never bled brakes before so im probley better off taking it somewhere right?
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From: lakewood colorado
Car: 84-92 firebirds
Engine: 2.8/3.1
Transmission: auto
Probably better off taking it somewhere if you're nervous about it, especially with trying to stop a 350 engine. You could give bleeding your best shot then take it to a shop to do a final bleed.
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From: Ganiesville GA
Car: 1992 z28/1992 RS heritage edition
Engine: 350 tpi, 305 tbi
Transmission: 700R4,T5
Axle/Gears: G92
ok thank you for the infromation i will see if im up to it also how much would it be to replace those at a shop ?
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From: lakewood colorado
Car: 84-92 firebirds
Engine: 2.8/3.1
Transmission: auto
Buy the hoses you want, then find a shop to install them and bleed the brakes, if that's the route you want to take. I'm guessing not more than 1 hour shop time at $50 to $75 per hour. Try to stay away from the places like brakes plus and tire places (not that they do bad work, but their charges tend to double for something like this - one charge to replace the lines, another to bleed the brakes).
Honestly though, I would try to do this yourself - it's really not that hard.
Honestly though, I would try to do this yourself - it's really not that hard.
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From: Ganiesville GA
Car: 1992 z28/1992 RS heritage edition
Engine: 350 tpi, 305 tbi
Transmission: 700R4,T5
Axle/Gears: G92
ok thank you i will check around town for the hoses and i wil probley try it myself and if i cant do ill bring it somewhere
thanks again
thanks again
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From: lakewood colorado
Car: 84-92 firebirds
Engine: 2.8/3.1
Transmission: auto
Check your brake pads while you've got the wheel off too! Depending on how long it's been since they've been changed and how long the cars been pulling, they probably need changed anyway.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
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From: houston
Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
Transmission: 700r4 6L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
one thing i didn't notice in the other post, use line wrenches or their proper name, flare nut wrenhes to remove the metal lines, a regualor wrench will probably round off the flare nuts & then you will have problems.
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From: Ganiesville GA
Car: 1992 z28/1992 RS heritage edition
Engine: 350 tpi, 305 tbi
Transmission: 700R4,T5
Axle/Gears: G92
thank you for the info i will read it right now.
thank you
thank you Thread
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