Brakes Looking to upgrade or get the most out of what you have stock? All brake discussions go here!

whee bearing replacement done wrong?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 15, 2007 | 02:35 PM
  #1  
adam86's Avatar
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: Modesto, CA
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Stock 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 POSI
whee bearing replacement done wrong?

hey guys acouple months ago i changed my wheel bearings... i had never did it before so i wasnt quite sure on how to do everything but i got it back together the right way...

the thing is that i did NOT torque the wheel bearing onto the spindle... i just bearly turned it till it got alittle hard then put in the cotter pin


now the wheel bearings are squeaking somewhat when i start rolling.

should i take them out and repack them then torque?


or can i just torque them and put a new cotter pin? im pretty sure there is plenty enough wheel bearing grease already.
Reply
Old Feb 15, 2007 | 03:09 PM
  #2  
naf's Avatar
naf
Supreme Member
20 Year Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Check your wheel bearings for excessive play by jacking up the wheel, grasping it a 6 and 12 o'clock and checking for any movement in and out. It shouldn't.

Most likely the squeaking you're hearing is not the bearings. If they're bad enough to squeak you'd probably experience the next stage of bearing failure.

Could the squeaking be the brakes? Does the sound change if you apply them?

Once you've verified they're OK you can retorque them correctly. If you're certain you packed them well, drive on. You'll have to decide this one. I don't have time to come by and check them for you...
Reply
Old Feb 18, 2007 | 12:34 PM
  #3  
Boosted_SS's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Car: Cobalt SS/SC and 88 IROCZ
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton Posi
what i normally do is tighten the bolt till they are barely snug and then back it off a bit. spin the rotor to make sure they spin freely. if not back the bolt off a little at a time until they do. if they are too tight they will burn up.
Reply
Old Feb 18, 2007 | 03:05 PM
  #4  
Parrydise7's Avatar
Supreme Member
20 Year Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 5
From: SoCal
Originally Posted by Boosted_SS
what i normally do is tighten the bolt till they are barely snug and then back it off a bit. spin the rotor to make sure they spin freely. if not back the bolt off a little at a time until they do. if they are too tight they will burn up.
I think that's the good old days. Check the instructions because I don't think this is the proper method these days.
Reply
Old Feb 18, 2007 | 03:28 PM
  #5  
Boosted_SS's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Car: Cobalt SS/SC and 88 IROCZ
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton Posi
well today's cars are all sealed units and the bearing comes with the entire hub assembly. I've always done it like i discribed above and i have never had a problem. we're talking about an 86 firebird here and that my friend was manufactured in the good old days.
Reply
Old Feb 18, 2007 | 11:24 PM
  #6  
wanta427's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 87
Likes: 1
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 350 L98 al head Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LS1 brakes
tighten the nut til you've got about 15 ft lbs of torque while you're spinning the rotor then back it off to the first place you can get the cotter pin in.Otherwise you're too loose . There's actually a torque spec in the service manual .
Reply
Old Feb 19, 2007 | 01:07 AM
  #7  
Boosted_SS's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Car: Cobalt SS/SC and 88 IROCZ
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton Posi
yes but after you have done it enough you can generally do it by feel.
Reply
Old Feb 19, 2007 | 09:38 AM
  #8  
Gumby's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 8,113
Likes: 6
From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Well most times you can't go to lose or to tight as the holes wont line up good in either direction. Though a bearing dude said before that tight is better then lose. Something to do with how the loadin of them works. A bit tight won't do damage but to lose will.

But 99% of the time you just can't go to lose or tight.
The holes just wont line up and it will be stark dead obvious that it ain't right.
If in doubt dude who work in bearing industry said a bit tight is always better then a bit lose.
Reply
Old Apr 18, 2007 | 09:40 AM
  #9  
net_coma's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Worth
Re: whee bearing replacement done wrong?

if they are too tight they will burn up.

I burned some up on my 74...WOW what a parking lot challenge that was. In the navy cpl hundred miles from the base and dirt poor.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
anesthes
Tech / General Engine
40
Mar 10, 2016 10:35 PM
red90IROCls1
Transmissions and Drivetrain
10
Aug 25, 2015 06:56 AM
Ginamariegault
Brakes
1
Aug 10, 2015 08:33 AM
rsrmoore
Transmissions and Drivetrain
1
Aug 7, 2015 08:44 PM
Leggman1
Transmissions and Drivetrain
3
Aug 6, 2015 04:15 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:59 AM.