low pedal after disc swap
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From: decatur, AL
Car: 92 camaro rs
Engine: LS1, 426 rwhp 406 rwtq
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" with 3.70's
low pedal after disc swap
i put LS1 rear brakes on my 92 camaro rs and i dont have much pedal. i have bled and bled and still dont have much pedal. any ideas? thanks.
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,685
Likes: 10
From: PA
Car: 86 Trans AM
Engine: LS1 (not stock...)
Transmission: Built T56
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt w/ 3.73
Are you saying the pedal's position is lower? Or the pressure it takes to push it down is lower (easier to push)?
Did you modify or change the proportioning valve?
When you did the rear disc swap, did you change anything else? Did the system go dry or anything?
This is just a guess..but Im pretty sure disc brakes take more volume. What size hardlines are you using from the master to the axle, from the axle to the calipers???
Justin
Did you modify or change the proportioning valve?
When you did the rear disc swap, did you change anything else? Did the system go dry or anything?
This is just a guess..but Im pretty sure disc brakes take more volume. What size hardlines are you using from the master to the axle, from the axle to the calipers???
Justin
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: decatur, AL
Car: 92 camaro rs
Engine: LS1, 426 rwhp 406 rwtq
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" with 3.70's
the pedal goes way down. i did not change any lines or mess with the valve. the master did not go dry. i have bled alot and had air for awhile but none now. pedal is better but not right
Last edited by 92ZZ3RS; Mar 17, 2007 at 08:05 AM.
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,685
Likes: 10
From: PA
Car: 86 Trans AM
Engine: LS1 (not stock...)
Transmission: Built T56
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt w/ 3.73
Sounds like you just gotta bleed some more.
What method are you using for bleeding the brakes?
The only reason that a pedal should go way down is if there is still air in the lines, or if the master cylinder seals took a crap and fluid is pushing past them.
Some stupid questions... Did you be sure to mount the calipers in the correct position? With the bleeder screw on top... Did your brakes work good before the swap over?
If I were you, Ide check to make sure there are no leaks, check to make sure the calipers are mounted on the correct side, then I would bleed the brakes a bunch more using the pump, hold, open, close, pump method with a helper. Also double check all the rear disc swap threads to make sure you got everything covered.
Good luck!
Justin
What method are you using for bleeding the brakes?
The only reason that a pedal should go way down is if there is still air in the lines, or if the master cylinder seals took a crap and fluid is pushing past them.
Some stupid questions... Did you be sure to mount the calipers in the correct position? With the bleeder screw on top... Did your brakes work good before the swap over?
If I were you, Ide check to make sure there are no leaks, check to make sure the calipers are mounted on the correct side, then I would bleed the brakes a bunch more using the pump, hold, open, close, pump method with a helper. Also double check all the rear disc swap threads to make sure you got everything covered.
Good luck!
Justin
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,812
Likes: 110
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
did you have disc before? if not you need a new prop valve from a disc car. if you did all this, i could just be that the calipers are still adjusting themselves. give it a little while and some more miles and it should tighten up. i had to do this with mine. just make sure that you are not required to pump up the pedel, because that means you need to bleed more.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: decatur, AL
Car: 92 camaro rs
Engine: LS1, 426 rwhp 406 rwtq
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" with 3.70's
it was drum before. i'll have to go look and see about the bleeders are on top or not. i think they are but not sure. so i do need a valve from a disc/disc car? i've read about so many people that did not change that. but if that will help i will change it. will it bolt right up without changing anything?
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From: East Haven, Connecticut
Car: 89 Camaro/ 02 GC Overland
Engine: 355 V8/ 4.7 HO V8
Transmission: T5/ 545RE
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.73/ Dana 30, Dana 44 3.73
You dont need a new prop valve. The 90-92 cars use the same valve for disc and drum rears. Sounds like you need to do more bleeding.
Matt
Matt
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From: PA
Car: 86 Trans AM
Engine: LS1 (not stock...)
Transmission: Built T56
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt w/ 3.73
Yeah he shouldnt need a new prop valve just for the pedal to feel good. The prop valve should be changed in order to get the correct brake bias. But as mentioned, he may already have a valve taht will work.
I personally ditch the prop valve. On both my jeep and my Trans AM I have the fronts running right off the master, and the rears running off of a wilwood adjustable valve.
The Jeep has a rear disc conversion, and the TA has front and rear LS1 brakes with the LS1 master and booster.
Just makes things much simpler and gives you full control over your brake set up.
But yeah...give bleeding another go. Im not sure that the calipers should have to adjust themselves either... Never heard of that before. Once they are bled they should be ready to go. Ls1 rear brakes have the e-brake assembly in the rotor itself, so the rear calipers arent the kind that adjust.
Let us know how you make out with the next round of bleeding.
J.
I personally ditch the prop valve. On both my jeep and my Trans AM I have the fronts running right off the master, and the rears running off of a wilwood adjustable valve.
The Jeep has a rear disc conversion, and the TA has front and rear LS1 brakes with the LS1 master and booster.
Just makes things much simpler and gives you full control over your brake set up.
But yeah...give bleeding another go. Im not sure that the calipers should have to adjust themselves either... Never heard of that before. Once they are bled they should be ready to go. Ls1 rear brakes have the e-brake assembly in the rotor itself, so the rear calipers arent the kind that adjust.
Let us know how you make out with the next round of bleeding.
J.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: decatur, AL
Car: 92 camaro rs
Engine: LS1, 426 rwhp 406 rwtq
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" with 3.70's
ok, i feel stupid now. the calipers were on wrong. the bleeders were on the bottom. i swapped sides and problem is fixed. thanks alot guys!!!!!!!
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,685
Likes: 10
From: PA
Car: 86 Trans AM
Engine: LS1 (not stock...)
Transmission: Built T56
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt w/ 3.73
That was one of the things up top that I suggested him to do...
It seems like a really simple thing, but boy does it make a difference.
Glad to hear you got it sorted out! How do you like the stopping power now??
J.
It seems like a really simple thing, but boy does it make a difference.
Glad to hear you got it sorted out! How do you like the stopping power now??
J.
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